I'm looking for a easy way to clean the carbs without removing them. I know of a product that destroys varnish and ethanol snot..my question is if I remove the carb top caps on ea...from that point can I pour a liquid into the crtitcal areas..bowl ect. that need cleaning? filling it and providing a overnite soak so to speak..if so this should work.
If you want to introduce this product into the bowls I suppose you could do so through the vent hoses but you'd have to drain the fuel from the bowl to make room for it.
Use a brand new phillips bit on the drain screw at the bottom of the bowl, or remove bowl the cap. There isn't much room to do either as installed.
Using a new bit and cleaning the bowl screws goes a long way in avoiding headaches. I spray/toothbrush the externals of really dirty carbs before disassembly.
Put your purse down and pull your carbs :>)
lol..just looking for easy..I had two '84 Magna bikes hardly used and they didn't like ethanol..not at all..cold blooded bastids to boot only ran on choke every spring.. anyway I discovered Motorcraft Carburetor Tune-Up poured in all 4 carbs and soak for a couple days they ran just like new..100% fixed every time..my son worked at a Ford Truck dealer and introduced my to the stuff..I keep 3 cans in stock at all times..
http://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Ford-PM-3-Carburetor-Tune-Up/dp/B000NU6RG8
http://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Ford-PM-3-Carburetor-Tune-Up/dp/B000NU6RG8
if we can figure out how to get it in the bowl and soak..it works.
Devilin AblueDress!
New member
ya, i hear ya..can says don't mix into fuel..direct into carb...
syringe maybe..gota be a shortcut
syringe maybe..gota be a shortcut
Devilin AblueDress!
New member
I think you miss heard me then, LOL! You can drain the bowl with the Phillips screw or a wrench and turn the bottom of bowl right out (might be crap in there too!) Once fuel is drained put plugs back in. Take off fuel line from pump then get a little funnel and rig it to like 18" of hose. Put your 18" hose on the nipple on carb and pour your chemical into funnel.....will fill the bowls just like it was from the pump. This will 100% fill bottom of carbs with your chemical.
*DISCLAIMER* I don't support this method of carb cleaning, Just trying to help another member come up with ideas to clean carbs his way. I will accept credit for idea but no liability for any damages to sled for any one using idea.
yeah, that stuff will work great! in the time you take deciphering a method to drain the bowls and use the fuel lines to induce your magic formula, wow, your airbox would be out along with the carbs and done right. whats your time worth? whats a piston and/or cylinder worth? i would think there would be days of reading on this site alone, not to mention every other snowmobile related site with people who have tried to do what you are wanting to do. read all about the failures. no shortcut to proper carb cleaning, period, but thats just one persons opinion.
7:51pm-9:09pm? about an hour, you would be way closer to done right in the shop vs over the keyboard. but to answer your question, only way to effectively get it in is through the fuel lines, after draining the bowls. then dont forget to pull the sled over a few times to be sure and draw the cleaner up into all the important parts of the carbs, it wont mystically work of you dont do that part, sitting in the bowls will do nothing for the circuits.
off the soap box. good luck.
7:51pm-9:09pm? about an hour, you would be way closer to done right in the shop vs over the keyboard. but to answer your question, only way to effectively get it in is through the fuel lines, after draining the bowls. then dont forget to pull the sled over a few times to be sure and draw the cleaner up into all the important parts of the carbs, it wont mystically work of you dont do that part, sitting in the bowls will do nothing for the circuits.
off the soap box. good luck.
goody_700
New member
dblshock, I know you're trying to be innovative, but there is only one way to clean the carbs properly, and that is by taking them out and doing them on the workbench with carb cleaner, brushes, compressed air, etc... Not trying to be a jerk here at all, but if you want piece of mind, do it properly and learn something in the process. It really is pretty simple to do once you get after it, and we're all here to help as well. A couple hours or so and you'll be all done.
yeah, if there was a easier way you guys would have known about it..my sleds are at my cabin 250 miles from me..guess I could remove a rack at a time bring it back to clean..when I'm there it's a mad rush just to get all the chores done so I can ride..that's why was hoping for a quick solution that worked while I slept.
The 700 has a slight mid-range burble and the 600 occasionally backfires on hot start-up otherwise they operate as expected. I really loaded the fuel system with ATF heavy last spring hoping it might have dissolved some bogers, I've only run them 10min. so far this season so I'll decide if to go further after I get them out on the trail for a day...thx
The 700 has a slight mid-range burble and the 600 occasionally backfires on hot start-up otherwise they operate as expected. I really loaded the fuel system with ATF heavy last spring hoping it might have dissolved some bogers, I've only run them 10min. so far this season so I'll decide if to go further after I get them out on the trail for a day...thx
Take a couple cans of carb cleaner, toothbrush, fresh phillips screw bit and rags and clean them up there. I rarely plug my compressor in to clean a carb. Spray, scrub and rinse the outside of each carb before you disassemble them to avoid introducing big gunk and buggering up greasy screws. Once the main and pilot jets are removed, use the tube on the cleaner and spray into the holes they came out of. Watch the spray pattern of the carb cleaner as it blasts into the carb venturi (open the throttle while viewing) . An even stream = good, dribble or uneven spray = plugged. Try to bend the tube 90 degrees and spray where the dribble was which should back flush the obstruction. Also print off Mr. Viper's carb 101 before you leave.
Good luck and I hope it works out.
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What really bugs me is my outboard doesnt require all this carb attention, neither does any other 2T unit I own..they've gone forever and I don't even think about carbs..in fact the more hours used the less I'd imagine carbs as the issue...
Why are these different?
I'm still searching for a chemical solution.
Why are these different?
I'm still searching for a chemical solution.
Terrence R
New member
Honestly, u must remember that I just went through this. I'm glad I opened up my carbs. I found a clogged pilot and some other gunk floating around on the bowls. It's prob best just to go through with the thorough cleaning. I know I'll sleep better knowing that mine have been properly/thoroughly cleaned.
I followed your thread...you had a bunch of issues even drilling on the block..you were on back in Nov. about your reed cage so you've been at this a while..WTF ...that the mess I want to avoid..hows your sled running?
Devilin AblueDress!
New member
Keep in mind I am not familiar with out boards to much. My parents have had a few that I monkied with (Johnson/evinrudes) and as you mentioned never a carb problem. Maybe they are more designed for the moisture issues created by ethanol(after all the LIVE in water). Maybe its the pre-mix versus the oil injection. Maybe its the tiny pilots. Maybe its the ethanol. I have just come to terms with cleaning them the traditional way.
Terrence R
New member
Nope. That's not me. Didn't have to drill in my block. And didn't start working on my sled until a few days ago. Just started my carb cleaning thread about 4 days ago. Sled runs great. A little lean on top right now, but that's because I only have the air/fuel screws open to 1.5 turns. Ganna pull the carbs off today and open the screws up to about 2 1/8 turns.
sorry, my bad..was looking at your join date..
http://www.totallyamaha.net/forums/showthread.php?93957-Replacing-reed-stops
Terrence R
New member
Ah yes. I only had to ream the holes on one reed stop only because one that my friend gave me was from an SRX. It was an east fix and was not related to cleaning my carbs. Although, I found the reed stop problem while I took the carbs off, cause I was also installing reed spacers. But I'm some glad I found the bad reeds before they let go.
Honestly, this is the first sled that I've actually worked on. I only ever had a couple other sleds. I sold one before snow hit, and only rode the other one half a season. I too didn't want to get into a big deal/headache by taking my carbs apart. But once you get it all apart, you'll see how easy and straight forward it is. Well worth the time to do it right. Also, you should check your stops for any hairline cracks. Seems to be a common issue with these red head triples.
looks like that's where I'm headed..kicking and screaming..lol
We're looking at a big weather system moving into the area sunday so maybe I get out soon..the Packer/Steeler Sunday game in Green Bay could be in a serious blizzard +12" ..and under the lights..both teams must win..classic Lambeau.
We're looking at a big weather system moving into the area sunday so maybe I get out soon..the Packer/Steeler Sunday game in Green Bay could be in a serious blizzard +12" ..and under the lights..both teams must win..classic Lambeau.
staggs65
Moderator
You cant compare apples to llamas. tiny,tiny pilots. twins of the same size engine don't have nearly as much of a problem.