Warning light and check engine light are on and stay on.

dawolf

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Jan 31, 2011
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Age
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Location
Illinois
So as the title says I'm getting the Amber warning light, plus the check engine icon is lighting up on my 03 Viper. It isn't flashing a set sequence, so there is no code. It will stay on for awhile (2 or 3 minutes and then go off, then back on again for a bit and off again). Sled runs great from what I can tell. Not enough snow to ride really, but seemed to run fine in the field next to the house on what little snow we had.

I did notice that the coolant hoses don't seem to have any pressure as i can squeeze them flat when running, but they are warm, the heat exchangers are warming up. I don't believe the hand grips or thumb warmer are warming up, but it isn't flashing the code for these problems.

It has plenty of oil, coolant, and fuel. Carbs were cleaned, new plugs, fluids etc. It should be ready to roll.

I know I'm shooting in the dark here, just thought someone might know what would cause these lights to come on constant with no code flashing.

Many thanks
 

go out and start it up, how many bars does it show on the fuel?
 
My 02 viper is doing the same thing. I have checked all my wiring harnesses and have found no breaks. Sled runs great. I thought maybe fuel but not that either. Kinda stumped at the moment.
 
I took the sled to my local yamaha dealer. They don't know what it is either.

The head mechanic told me these sleds were prone to this phantom light. He said his own sled had one for years and couldn't run it down.
Not confidence inspiring, but not surprising. He didn't think the bad grips and the light were connected as there was no code flashing. ( I'm wondering why the grip code isn't flashing) I will report back when I know more.

He suggested I bleed the coolant system. I'll give this a try and report back.
 
Forgot to mention I bled the cooling system as well and no difference.. I checked plugs and piston wash and all seems to be good. My thoughts were the cdi box, thought of picking another up and swapping them to see if there was any change. I would like to sovle this problem though as when I see that engine icon and light I get a little worried.. Over all the sled seems to run great and oil consumption is normal. I run premium fuel with octane boost and no ethonal.
 
Forgot to mention I bled the cooling system as well and no difference.. I checked plugs and piston wash and all seems to be good. My thoughts were the cdi box, thought of picking another up and swapping them to see if there was any change. I would like to sovle this problem though as when I see that engine icon and light I get a little worried.. Over all the sled seems to run great and oil consumption is normal. I run premium fuel with octane boost and no ethonal.
I would not pin it until you solve your issue with the lights//Merry xmas
 
Hey Dawolf, Been out a few times and my icon and light stayed off. Yesterday went out and all was good until the last 50 miles of the ride. Light and icon came on and just stayed on for awhile and went out then came on again but flickered erratically. Not really a code though. Wondering if you came across something yet?
 
The dealer wasn't any help. Shrugged his shoulders and handed me a bill. Thanks.

What I've noticed is the light comes on when I close the hood and turns off when I open it. Loose wire right?!?!?!?! I was so excited...for a bit.

I've gone through every single wire I can find and I can't figure it out. No breaks, no rubs I can see.

Does anyone have any ideas where to look or look again? At least I know it isn't something horrible now.
 
If you can get ahold of one, try a different meter just for the heck of it.

Just think if you and Cam swapped and both your problems go away...!
 
He didn't think the bad grips and the light were connected as there was no code flashing. ( I'm wondering why the grip code isn't flashing) I will report back when I know more.

Not 100% sure about the Vipers BUT The SRX/redheads with the newer hotter ignition system the warmers don't kick in until motor is turn 4k rpm. Makes sense Viper would be the same.
 
Found the problem. Stripped the plastic cover off the whole wire harness and way down in between the wires were two bare wires. No indication from looking at the harness there was a problem, but nothing else made sense as to the problem so off it came. Taped them good and 400 miles now with no goofy lights.
 
Found the problem. Stripped the plastic cover off the whole wire harness and way down in between the wires were two bare wires. No indication from looking at the harness there was a problem, but nothing else made sense as to the problem so off it came. Taped them good and 400 miles now with no goofy lights.

Another example of a visual inspection not finding a rub-thru of the under-engine harness unless it's removed and untaped.

A good clue was a change in the symptom when you opened and closed the hood which moved the harness.
 
not to beat a dead horse but there is no such thing as a phantom light, its called a lazy mechanic/tech.

The wiring is prone to rub thrus on all vipers.sx.and srx. They ALL WILL rub thru the harness at sometime, so its not wasted time and energy to pull the harness out from under the engine and untape it, and put it back into plastic convolute tubing. It will never rub thru under the engine ever again.

theres countless threads here where guys say I looked at every wire then they actually untape it and find chaffed wires, or I do when the sled shows up here for the problem.

you gotta pull the harness out and untape them from the engine!

Nice to see you fixed it now, hopefully you put it in convolute tubing so you never have to do it again.
 
not to beat a dead horse but there is no such thing as a phantom light, its called a lazy mechanic/tech.

The wiring is prone to rub thrus on all vipers.sx.and srx. They ALL WILL rub thru the harness at sometime, so its not wasted time and energy to pull the harness out from under the engine and untape it, and put it back into plastic convolute tubing. It will never rub thru under the engine ever again.

theres countless threads here where guys say I looked at every wire then they actually untape it and find chaffed wires, or I do when the sled shows up here for the problem.

you gotta pull the harness out and untape them from the engine!

Nice to see you fixed it now, hopefully you put it in convolute tubing so you never have to do it again.


X2 - or split some heater hose lengthwise and place the newly repaired harness into it or at least add split hose pieces ziptied to the harness at the points the harness contacts the chassis or comes close to any metal (i.e. stamped metal brackets, steering post, etc).

Rolls of split convolute can be found at most autoparts stores and makes for a cleaner looking repair but anything to protect the taped harness from future rubbing is what you're after. As witnessed, tape isn't enough.
 
Just curious... would there be any harm in leaving it as is with the lights on? Other than the fact that they'd be on all the time and wouldn't be able to warn you of other issues?
 
Just curious... would there be any harm in leaving it as is with the lights on? Other than the fact that they'd be on all the time and wouldn't be able to warn you of other issues?

well that would mean the harness is chaffed, so likely its just going to get worse, so the answer would be how much risk do you want to take with not fixing it...

they dont heal themselves.
 
I would think that if these wires keep rubbing together or shorting to ground it would eventually end up screwing up something in the cdi or some other semi sensitive electronic part.Summer's coming up so yank the engine and pull the wiring harness,find your problem and correct it.
 


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