I have a 2002 VMAX 700ER with about 3500 miles. I just finished long tracking it with a 144" Ripsaw last night, and when I got it outside in the snow, it wouldn't even move itself - the belt would just slip on the primary. It seemed like when sitting on it and the rear suspension was under load the track would bind up. Today I had a chance to look it over and get it out on the river to open it up and the suspension seemed to work ok. I do think I might have a weak spring in the primary because it does seem like there is still some slipage when under heavy load. The main problem that popped up today though was some engine running issues.
Compression - 120 PTO, 120 center, 112 MAG
When running wide open, I got 8000 RPM and 60 MPH max. It also didn't sound quite right. When going to WOT (fast or slow), there was a noticeable moment of bog before the engine would wind up. Looking into it, the spark in all 3 cylinders is very weak. When all 3 wires are plugged in, the mag side doesn't fire at all, but the other 2 will. When the mag side is by itself, it will fire and run (rather poorly). Tried unplugging both headlight bulbs, and it didn't make a difference so it doesn't seem like a weak stator.
I have read some previous threads about plug boots, and I will replace those once the stores reopen on the 26th. But any ideas what else could cause this to happen all at once? 3 bad coils at once? bad CDI? disrupted some wiring when moving the coolant hose/wire harness around to get the chaincase removed? Last week before the long tracking began, it ran great. Awesome power and was easily up to 85+.
Thanks for any insight, and Merry Christmas to all.
Compression - 120 PTO, 120 center, 112 MAG
When running wide open, I got 8000 RPM and 60 MPH max. It also didn't sound quite right. When going to WOT (fast or slow), there was a noticeable moment of bog before the engine would wind up. Looking into it, the spark in all 3 cylinders is very weak. When all 3 wires are plugged in, the mag side doesn't fire at all, but the other 2 will. When the mag side is by itself, it will fire and run (rather poorly). Tried unplugging both headlight bulbs, and it didn't make a difference so it doesn't seem like a weak stator.
I have read some previous threads about plug boots, and I will replace those once the stores reopen on the 26th. But any ideas what else could cause this to happen all at once? 3 bad coils at once? bad CDI? disrupted some wiring when moving the coolant hose/wire harness around to get the chaincase removed? Last week before the long tracking began, it ran great. Awesome power and was easily up to 85+.
Thanks for any insight, and Merry Christmas to all.
Terrence R
New member
Have u checked the spark with New plugs? I'm just wondering if they're fowling. Maybe your track is too tight? Causing the clutch to strain? Now plugs are fowling from bogging and struggling? I'm just throwing some guesses out there.
Devilin AblueDress!
New member
Did you re-gear chain case or is it still the same gears?
check and see if the flywheel is rusty
It was checked and ran with new BR9ES plugs. Track is loose. When suspended in the air, it has about 1/2" of sag without pulling any weight on it.
I forgot when it was apart to count the gears, but I know they have not been changed from stock which I believe is 40/23. I was thinking of re-gearing it once I got everything running and seeing how it drove and what it needed.
A rusty flywheel would result in low power output for the whole sled correct? So by running it without the headlights plugged in, that frees up 110 watts of power. Since the spark didn't get any stronger when I did that, I would guess that the stator/flywheel is good.
I will still take off the recoil and inspect it when all the festivities are done with today.
Devilin AblueDress!
New member
Rusty flywheel can/will interfear with the signal to pick up coil, has little to do with generating power, that happens on the inside of the flywheel. By not re-gearing for the nearly 2ft of more track its like starting out in 2nd-3rd gear. Maynot be the entire problem but is definitely playing into it.
Terrence R
New member
The headlight should run on a seperate coil on the stator plate. So, on or off, I can't see it effecting the spark output.
The later sleds with the high output stator (300 watt) no longer have separate coils for individual loads. It is a 3 phase AC stator that feeds 3 hot wires to the rectifier/regulator where it is converted to 12v DC that runs the entire sled.
Terrence R
New member
Sorry, my mistake. That's good to know though cause I too have an 02 Vmax ER. Thanx.
What upper/lower gears would you suggest I run?
the pick up coil is on the outside of the flywheel, when the flywheel gets rusty, it hampers/blocks the signal and makes a sled run bad or no spark at all.
When you unplugged the lights is has nothing to do with the pick up coil,rusty flywheel.
When you unplugged the lights is has nothing to do with the pick up coil,rusty flywheel.
Thanks, I will check it when I get home from work tonight. So I have to remove the recoil housing and then I should be able to see it right there? or is there some other procedure to inspect/clean it?
So I got things ironed out. Turns out I'm an idiot lol! When I cleaned the carbs, on #3 I put the plastic splash guard around the main jet on upside down. This allowed the tube to move up and down. Now that it's on the right way, everything runs great. I even seem to have greatly reduced/almost eliminated the nasty idle hang it's always had.
I'm guessing that when the other cylinders were firing, there was enough back pressure through the exhaust manifold to keep #3 from firing, but when there was no backpressure, it was able to mix the fuel a bit and fire.
The spark is a tad bit weaker than on my SRV, but when using a gap tester, it was still able to jump over 3/8".
Now that that's resolved, I have to move on to gearing and clutching. Still dealing with an over-reving clutch that maxes out at 9100RPM.
Thanks for all the help.
I'm guessing that when the other cylinders were firing, there was enough back pressure through the exhaust manifold to keep #3 from firing, but when there was no backpressure, it was able to mix the fuel a bit and fire.
The spark is a tad bit weaker than on my SRV, but when using a gap tester, it was still able to jump over 3/8".
Now that that's resolved, I have to move on to gearing and clutching. Still dealing with an over-reving clutch that maxes out at 9100RPM.
Thanks for all the help.
whits-end
New member
- Joined
- Mar 31, 2004
- Messages
- 4
Do you have the resistance values to check a 3-ph AC stator in a 2001 SRX?
Thanks for your help.
Pickup coil - white/red to white/green 189 - 231Ω at 68º
Stator - white to white (all combinations of the 3 wires) 0.36 - 0.44Ω at 68º