Heres my finished Attak:
Before @ 590 lbs dry...
After @ 535 lbs dry...
Before @ 590 lbs dry...
After @ 535 lbs dry...
yammitrip1
Member
did you ever figure out how much it cost like dollars vs pounds?
I never really figured it out but used parts like the Boss seat helped the $/# ratio a lot.
mile9c1
New member
Sounds sweet. What all did you do to it?
-power commander 5 with ignition module[Ulmer]
-airbox mod[Ulmer]
-Bender SS exhaust
-Excell headers
-copper exhaust donuts
-updated reinforced front suspension arm
-8" rear idlers
-over size suspension wheels
-dupont slides
-all new suspension bushings/bearings
-Mega float mono shock
-lite weight front suspension
-aluminum spindles
-fox float IIs with canisters
-Yamaha tuner skiis
-bulk head saver
-added Yamaha rear cooler
-heavy duty driveshaft with extroverts[Ulmer]
-new driveshaft, chaincase, jacksft bearings/seals
-Ripsaw II 1 1/4" 136" track
-8" riser + pivot
-Instrument cluster relocate bracket
-Yamaheater with boost
-Boss seat
-Nytro tail light
-911 primary clutch cover
-Heavy Hitters
-Team TS04 secondary
-ect ect ect
staggs65
Moderator
Have you got much seat time on it yet? How are you liking it so far?
I haven't riden much as I finished it just before Xmas...but so far so good.
It pulls very hard even with the RPM 600 low...skiis never touch the snow when wideopen. I should be able to get it dialed in this coming week and also get some miles on it.
you can lighten it more if you remove those wheels you used. get some factory yamaha ones that came on the sleds new. the bearings are not replaceable but they are super light. just lift the seal and grease the bearings. also the rear billets are heavy, they also load up with ice in some conditions. Use the factory rear center wheels with molded bearings, even the ones with removable bearings are light. drill some holes in them to make them look a little better and you have one of the lightest wheels you can get without going carbon.
also, up front, used to be able to get aluminum shafts for the a frames from barkbuster. they had issues with wear and stopped making them. These would still be light if you sleaved the areas that wear with stainless. I would guess a 2-3 lb savings there.
also, up front, used to be able to get aluminum shafts for the a frames from barkbuster. they had issues with wear and stopped making them. These would still be light if you sleaved the areas that wear with stainless. I would guess a 2-3 lb savings there.
Thanks for tips! I got some aluminum shafts from MPI but they didn't fit properly...might have been RX1 ones?
Bob
Bob