Backwoods M Max
New member
Warm. It's been warming up all day, 37 now with fog/mist. Goodbye snow, might as well get the sled worked out now.
I think I'll be ok with the shorter chain. The bottom gear in the reverse kit is hollow and bigger then the axle. There is a stub shaft that passes through the middle of the lower chain gear. Splined on the inside, smooth on the outside. When I took it all apart the stub shaft comes off then the bottom gear lifts out and you have all sorts of room.
I will take pics when it all goes back together, some great engineering in there.
I think I'll be ok with the shorter chain. The bottom gear in the reverse kit is hollow and bigger then the axle. There is a stub shaft that passes through the middle of the lower chain gear. Splined on the inside, smooth on the outside. When I took it all apart the stub shaft comes off then the bottom gear lifts out and you have all sorts of room.
I will take pics when it all goes back together, some great engineering in there.
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Glad to hear you found the cause of your metal shavings, and able to fix it before it caused further damage or left you stranded. Also good catch on the 11 wide chain that the lady picked out for you, better than getting all the parts together to reassemble and then finding that something just isn't right. Sounds like she should take it back even if it does ship, if she pulled the incorrect part information from her catalog.
Backwoods M Max
New member
All is getting better in the world, got my order squared away with the chain. The parts are on the way to rebuild the chain tensioner and Hauck expects my springs to go out tomorrow. I should be able to start putting things back together by the end of the week.
The guy at Al's snowmobile said he had no idea why the woman pulled the chain that she did. I guess that's what happens when you get the Saturday crew. He said you only want to run a Yamaha chain, not an aftermarket and it was going to be 7-10 days to get it to him.
I've got my chain coming from Ronnie's Mail Order along with the tensioner parts. I had to add the chain this morning and the woman on the phone was very nice. They are in western mass so for any New England guys that's another option for parts.
The guy at Al's snowmobile said he had no idea why the woman pulled the chain that she did. I guess that's what happens when you get the Saturday crew. He said you only want to run a Yamaha chain, not an aftermarket and it was going to be 7-10 days to get it to him.
I've got my chain coming from Ronnie's Mail Order along with the tensioner parts. I had to add the chain this morning and the woman on the phone was very nice. They are in western mass so for any New England guys that's another option for parts.
Backwoods M Max
New member
Clutching Update
Here's a quick update on the clutching situation. It took 3 weeks to get my clutch springs out of Hauck, so i had to wait until I got home from work the other day to put the new springs in. Here's what we've got now. I still haven't gotten to get in a meaningful ride, mother nature hasn't been on my schedule but things are looking up for next week.
If everything works out good I'll submit it all to the clutching table.
Gearing 20/39
Clutch Weights 8CR 48 grams total weight: tip 17mm, heel 14mm (measured peened length and guessed what they were)
Primary Spring w-w-w
Secondary Spring silver at 60 degree wrap on a 43 degree helix.
Now the manual says that the rivets are suppose to be: 17mm in, 14mm out. So are the weights in the opposite holes for that altitude setup? Am I to think that there was an error made when the dealer did the initial clutch setup for delivery. I'm going to ride it the way it is and try to get some long pulls and see what it gets for full throttle rpm with the springs in there. If it's not right I will have to order some new rivets and swap the holes and try again.
Unless I'm mistaking what is the inner and outer hole? do you consider the tip as inner or outer hole since the tech manual references them as in/out instead of heel/tip. The 17mm is in the tip, the 14mm is in the heel. I should have flipped it the other way when I took the pic.
Here's a quick update on the clutching situation. It took 3 weeks to get my clutch springs out of Hauck, so i had to wait until I got home from work the other day to put the new springs in. Here's what we've got now. I still haven't gotten to get in a meaningful ride, mother nature hasn't been on my schedule but things are looking up for next week.
If everything works out good I'll submit it all to the clutching table.
Gearing 20/39
Clutch Weights 8CR 48 grams total weight: tip 17mm, heel 14mm (measured peened length and guessed what they were)
Primary Spring w-w-w
Secondary Spring silver at 60 degree wrap on a 43 degree helix.
Now the manual says that the rivets are suppose to be: 17mm in, 14mm out. So are the weights in the opposite holes for that altitude setup? Am I to think that there was an error made when the dealer did the initial clutch setup for delivery. I'm going to ride it the way it is and try to get some long pulls and see what it gets for full throttle rpm with the springs in there. If it's not right I will have to order some new rivets and swap the holes and try again.
Unless I'm mistaking what is the inner and outer hole? do you consider the tip as inner or outer hole since the tech manual references them as in/out instead of heel/tip. The 17mm is in the tip, the 14mm is in the heel. I should have flipped it the other way when I took the pic.
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Why bothering with stock weights, unless you don't want to invest more in the sled? Heelclickers work very well in a MM, they grab the belt in a proper way and are pretty easy to tune on a MM for what you're trying to accomplish.
Backwoods M Max
New member
It's not that I don't want to put money into it, I'm just trying to establish a base line now that it has been turned back into a mountain sled. The first owner had it set up for trail riding (bars down low, put morrors on it) and this fall has just been figuring out all the little things since I put the 151 on it. The first time I was able to get t out in the yard (still haven't had the snow to go ride in the deep yet) it just didn't want to move right. I pulled apart the chain case to check the gearing to find a seized idler wheel on the tensioner. Kinda pissed me off cause the dealer put all new bearings I'm there. He also replaced the 70l with another 70l even though the gear total was 60 teeth. I changed from a 21t to 20t, 39b from the reverse kit.
Tom Hartman had recommended a base line setup to try, which is what I want for right now. He said stock weight setup for my altitude, w-w-w spring to drop the engagement and silver primary on the stock helix at 60 wrap. I really just want to see how it is suppose to ride box stock for clutching now that all the driveline issues are fixed and it's redone to mountain spec like it should be. Once I can get a baseline on the new track/gearing setup I would love to put a clutch kit in it. This is all about making sure that the sled has a fare shake to show me what it's got. Done a lot of head banging tryng to work the stupid out of it from other people.
Tom Hartman had recommended a base line setup to try, which is what I want for right now. He said stock weight setup for my altitude, w-w-w spring to drop the engagement and silver primary on the stock helix at 60 wrap. I really just want to see how it is suppose to ride box stock for clutching now that all the driveline issues are fixed and it's redone to mountain spec like it should be. Once I can get a baseline on the new track/gearing setup I would love to put a clutch kit in it. This is all about making sure that the sled has a fare shake to show me what it's got. Done a lot of head banging tryng to work the stupid out of it from other people.
I see, for a baseline, for just checking whether it works as supposed to, I guess that's the first step. I put on a clutch kit, had the reed stopper notch done, and a thinner headgasket, and the stock one I compared to, felt really like a 600.
Backwoods M Max
New member
Unless things turn around with the weather, getting out there and enjoying what I have now while I feel out my sled for the first time as it should be is really all I can ask for the rest of this winter. There is a great 900 acre state park thats 30 minutes from my house where I can day trip but they had 2' of snow on a friday and it was all gone when it rained the next Monday. I couldn't ride over the weekend, and it's been bad ever since. I've been told by people that my 700 triple is on par with a modern fuel injected 600 at best. I'd like to think that is BS and I'm hoping having al the bugs worked out proves me wrong.
My sled has gone from this
To this
My sled has gone from this
To this
updogcharmer
New member
ok this sounds like my exact same sled but I m not sure I understand what changes to make for optimum performance in deep stuff...Im in wisconsin soif that helps
thanks
thanks