howsahemi
New member
So I can't get over 6500 rpm with this sled. How should this sled compare to my 96 600? It has reverse electric start and a longer track than my 96. I'm not out to set any land speed records I'm just trying to get it dialed in. I've tried swapping clutches off my 96 with no prevail. I just cleaned the carbs again and other than the intermediates being dirty the inside looked pretty clean, no junk in the bowls. I'm gonna go take it for another test ride now after the carb cleaning Is there something I'm missing? Center to center seems good. Deflection I believe is good. New plugs. Fresh gas. ?? Is the gearing different as ists a 2 up sled? The jetting was 156.3 and 52.5.
howsahemi
New member
And compression was good. 130-135 both cylinders
Shift speed is spec'd at approx 7650 rpm, likely similar to or a little lower than your 96.
96 should have a touch more power stock to stock due to the GYT exhaust pipe that the 94-95 didn't come with.
Weight should be about 50-75 lbs more on the DX, depending on what model your 96 is.
Gearing for 95 DX is listed as 37/20 (1.85), non DX 600's show 37/21 (1.76)
Main jets are listed at 156.3, I don't have a spec on the pilots, but now that I recall they are listed here:
http://www.totallyamaha.com/snowmobiles/AAATuning Chart/Specs.htm
Your rpm should be near the 7650 mark, not 6500, something is amiss. Are the carbs opening fully, any restriction in the airbox or exhaust?
Go back over the clutching/belt to verify specs and wear areas. Do you have the owners manual or shop manual, if not they are wise investments.
Do both sparkplugs look the same with good color, and more importantly the piston domes?
96 should have a touch more power stock to stock due to the GYT exhaust pipe that the 94-95 didn't come with.
Weight should be about 50-75 lbs more on the DX, depending on what model your 96 is.
Gearing for 95 DX is listed as 37/20 (1.85), non DX 600's show 37/21 (1.76)
Main jets are listed at 156.3, I don't have a spec on the pilots, but now that I recall they are listed here:
http://www.totallyamaha.com/snowmobiles/AAATuning Chart/Specs.htm
Your rpm should be near the 7650 mark, not 6500, something is amiss. Are the carbs opening fully, any restriction in the airbox or exhaust?
Go back over the clutching/belt to verify specs and wear areas. Do you have the owners manual or shop manual, if not they are wise investments.
Do both sparkplugs look the same with good color, and more importantly the piston domes?
howsahemi
New member
I don't have an owners manual for this sled. Only for my 96 vmax4 and my 98 srx. I do have some pages copied from the manual for the sled. Clutch tuning and carb tuning. Looking over the carb tuning page there is an air screw towards the top of the carb?? Can that be adjusted? I'm gonna have to take the carbs back off tonight cause it ran even worse last night. While testing it last night I did think maybe something made a nest in the exhaust or something. It stayed outside when I bought it. The airbox is clean I already cleaned that. No nest in the airbox. Just a little dirty.
howsahemi
New member
Item 3 in the manual image is the air screw and it should be located lower on the carb, at the round air horn that fits into the airbox. The screw is adjustable with a small flat blade screwdriver. Factory spec is 1 1/8 turns out from lightly seated.
someones a little confused here, let me see if i can set things straight.
#3 in your picture is the air screw. yamaha refers to it as the pilot adjustment screw. its located exactly as pictured. starting point is 1 1/8 turns out. to fine tune the carbs, idle needs to be set to a specific rpm, around 2200 i think. long story short, you set idle, turn the screw in or out until the highest rpm can be reached. thus leaning it out. theres a bit more to it, but you get the point. just like a bike with single carb.
the part 700c is mentioning is the air jet. its not adjustable, but the size can be changed just like the pilot jet. you wouldnt set your pilot jet and back it out 1 1/8 turns no more than you would with the air jet. they would fall out!
if you interested in more info on the fine tune, i will drag the book out. been awhile since i had the 94 or 95 sleds.
#3 in your picture is the air screw. yamaha refers to it as the pilot adjustment screw. its located exactly as pictured. starting point is 1 1/8 turns out. to fine tune the carbs, idle needs to be set to a specific rpm, around 2200 i think. long story short, you set idle, turn the screw in or out until the highest rpm can be reached. thus leaning it out. theres a bit more to it, but you get the point. just like a bike with single carb.
the part 700c is mentioning is the air jet. its not adjustable, but the size can be changed just like the pilot jet. you wouldnt set your pilot jet and back it out 1 1/8 turns no more than you would with the air jet. they would fall out!
if you interested in more info on the fine tune, i will drag the book out. been awhile since i had the 94 or 95 sleds.
"700c" did not mention anything about an air jet. What he did mention was #3 air screw in the manual image above (in post #5).
The op is asking a question in post #4 about "an air screw towards the top of the carb". Although #3 is the air screw, and it is at an angle (as shown in the image), it is not towards the top of the carb. It is actually located lower on the carb, closer to the float bowl, on the lower half of the round air horn that fits into the airbox. The air screw is of course accessable for adjustment from the outside of the carb, so that both carbs can be tuned while the engine is running.
I actually went out to the garage just to verify all of this on a 1995 Vmax that has taken up residence. A smaller flat blade screwdriver with a long shank works great for adjusting these air screws. The small blade width is needed since the slot in the air screw head is often recessed into the aluminum carb body slightly.
The op is asking a question in post #4 about "an air screw towards the top of the carb". Although #3 is the air screw, and it is at an angle (as shown in the image), it is not towards the top of the carb. It is actually located lower on the carb, closer to the float bowl, on the lower half of the round air horn that fits into the airbox. The air screw is of course accessable for adjustment from the outside of the carb, so that both carbs can be tuned while the engine is running.
I actually went out to the garage just to verify all of this on a 1995 Vmax that has taken up residence. A smaller flat blade screwdriver with a long shank works great for adjusting these air screws. The small blade width is needed since the slot in the air screw head is often recessed into the aluminum carb body slightly.
Last edited:
howsahemi
New member
Ya I found the screws and adjusted them one carb was right the other just a little off. I finally got the sled running well but it has the famous mid range bog. Now I did get a bunch of info from snow dad already and copied them all of the updates I believe. Looks like I need a shim kit to do the needle position mod? Is that correct? I believe what the problem was there are two Allen screws under the top carb cover that connect the slide to the lifting mechanism and the mag side carb screws were loose. Runs 100% better now. Just need a little fine tuning and I'll also do the needle drop, shim, mod to help with the mid range problem
staggs65
Moderator
There's no need to get testy, I thought the same thing as Snowdad4 while reading your description. Sometimes things just don't translate quite right in type.
Not testy, just trying to clear the air and further describe the air screw from the standpoint of the op's original questions in post #4, so that he wouldn't get confused.