Hollywood2026
New member
Alright, so the same story has been told a million times before....
Im totally new to sleds, I mean like... I know jack squat... I read through these posts trying to figure it out for myself, and my mouth hangs open, then I get frustrated, then I get a beer... and close the garage door... leaving the sled to sit and think about what its done...
So... onto the issue...
I just bought this sled used..(naturally)...paid a whopping $500.00...
It starts REALLY hard. (Like, without pulling the plugs, dropping a bit of fuel in the cylinders and then putting plugs back in, it wont start hard.) Now, once it starts, its a beast. Its fast, responsive, revs high and hard and tears *** across the field.
Issue #2. Once I get it running, if...God forbid I shut it off... its not starting back up for at least an hour... and only if I, you guessed it, add fuel.
Its got round Mikunis, and the plugs look absolutely fine but just to be safe, I bought new NGK's and slapped em in there at .31 gap.
Any help would be really really appreciated, and will most likely save this sled from being set on fire while I save more money to buy a sled that wont cause my blood pressure to shoot through the roof of my skull.
Thanks a million
Im totally new to sleds, I mean like... I know jack squat... I read through these posts trying to figure it out for myself, and my mouth hangs open, then I get frustrated, then I get a beer... and close the garage door... leaving the sled to sit and think about what its done...
So... onto the issue...
I just bought this sled used..(naturally)...paid a whopping $500.00...
It starts REALLY hard. (Like, without pulling the plugs, dropping a bit of fuel in the cylinders and then putting plugs back in, it wont start hard.) Now, once it starts, its a beast. Its fast, responsive, revs high and hard and tears *** across the field.
Issue #2. Once I get it running, if...God forbid I shut it off... its not starting back up for at least an hour... and only if I, you guessed it, add fuel.
Its got round Mikunis, and the plugs look absolutely fine but just to be safe, I bought new NGK's and slapped em in there at .31 gap.
Any help would be really really appreciated, and will most likely save this sled from being set on fire while I save more money to buy a sled that wont cause my blood pressure to shoot through the roof of my skull.
Thanks a million
sounds lik its loosing its prime... there is vacuum lines that go from the fuel pump to the engine base.. solid black in color.... probably dry rot or chapped thru... need to take the left side cover off .. secondary clutch and look down under carbs to see them
Hollywood2026
New member
Left side as I look at the sled from the front?
I'm guessing that I'll need to pull the carbs?
And thanks for taking the time to respond, I appreciate it.
I'm guessing that I'll need to pull the carbs?
And thanks for taking the time to respond, I appreciate it.
I suspect ramblnman means left from sitting, as he mentions the secondary clutch (the bigger diameter of the two clutches, not the one on the engine crankshaft)
May or may not to be able to see the vacuum (and fuel) lines, I've never had an Exciter but I bet that secondary is blocking much of the view.
Since you mention "pull the carbs", when was the last time they were removed for a thorough cleaning and inspection, and to make sure all of the adjustments and jetting are correct?
Hollywood2026
New member
I pulled the left (from sitting) last night and cleaned it really well. It was clean inside... Looked great actually... (Naturally that was before I knew about the vacuum lines so it is happily back in place).
I pulled the plugs again before calling it quits for the night, dropped a bit of injection oil into each cylinder to displace any fuel and am hoping to get it running again this morning... At least so I can get it into the garage and work on it someplace other than my driveway.
When I pulled the carb, it had some sort of sensor on the underside of the carb itself, am I right in guessing that sensor has something to do with the TORS? If so.... Maybe someone can explain what TORS IS?!?!?
Also, as I work my way through the sled, I noted there was an on/off valve that ran coolant to the carbs and back. This valve was in a midway position, not on not off.... Is that normal?
I pulled the plugs again before calling it quits for the night, dropped a bit of injection oil into each cylinder to displace any fuel and am hoping to get it running again this morning... At least so I can get it into the garage and work on it someplace other than my driveway.
When I pulled the carb, it had some sort of sensor on the underside of the carb itself, am I right in guessing that sensor has something to do with the TORS? If so.... Maybe someone can explain what TORS IS?!?!?
Also, as I work my way through the sled, I noted there was an on/off valve that ran coolant to the carbs and back. This valve was in a midway position, not on not off.... Is that normal?
As stated above pull the carbs and clean them, and by this I mean don't just open the bowls and say "yup they look good and clean", I mean remove the jets and blo2w some carb cleaner through the jets and the fuel passage in the carburetor. To me it sounds like you have enough fuel flowing through the carbs to let the engine run but not enough to let you start it.
Now onto the sensor you "found", you are correct the sensor is the "TORS" or Throttle Over Ride System, What happens is there is also another sensor built into the thumb throttle mount that works in conjunction with the throttle switch. If one sensor reads that the other is open or on and the other should be either off or closed it will only let the engine rev to just under engagement speed. So it should have NO effect on your hard starting condition.
The lever that you found is for heating the carburetors to prevent icing and sticking of the throttle plates under operation. There are many opinions whether to leave it on or not, Turn the lever to the on position and try for yourself....
Hope this helps.
Now onto the sensor you "found", you are correct the sensor is the "TORS" or Throttle Over Ride System, What happens is there is also another sensor built into the thumb throttle mount that works in conjunction with the throttle switch. If one sensor reads that the other is open or on and the other should be either off or closed it will only let the engine rev to just under engagement speed. So it should have NO effect on your hard starting condition.
The lever that you found is for heating the carburetors to prevent icing and sticking of the throttle plates under operation. There are many opinions whether to leave it on or not, Turn the lever to the on position and try for yourself....
Hope this helps.
Hollywood2026
New member
Im still working on this, I got it started this morning but I think you're right Bandit, so... I'll be pulling both carbs tonight. (and checking vacuum lines as well)
I really just wanted to say thanks for the time spent thus far in helping a new guy out...
Its pretty cool... nah, its really cool...
Thanks guys, for not making this new guy feel like an idiot...(even if I am one)
I really just wanted to say thanks for the time spent thus far in helping a new guy out...
Its pretty cool... nah, its really cool...
Thanks guys, for not making this new guy feel like an idiot...(even if I am one)
Last edited:
Hollywood2026
New member
Just wanted to thank Everyone for their help. Especially YAMMIEGOD3:16 who stopped by the house yesterday afternoon and offered up some really good suggestions. Turns out he lives about three miles from me. He heard it run, gave me some parts locator info and had the service manual I need. I'm sure if I need help in the future I'll be able to lure him away from his stable of sleds to help work on mine.
We´re here instantly if you need help with your awesome sled, a community for true Exciter enthusiasts.
Join the excitement, the more the merrier!
https://www.facebook.com/groups/377732505654647/
Join the excitement, the more the merrier!
https://www.facebook.com/groups/377732505654647/