Help! just got my sled back from the shop after a month.. questions and pics

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comatoast

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Well after the disaster from this thread , the drama continues.
http://www.totallyamaha.net/forums/...w-idle-bogging-and-now-different-exhaust-tone


Ended up putting in a new primary and a Hauck #3 clutch kit. Then they leaned out the midrange a bit by moving the e clip up ... It seems to run ok, but I still have a minor squeal / squeek.. Put in a new donut where the pipe meets the manifold, then they used ( what looks to be rtv ) to seal up what is left of the donut by the muffler.. Seems to run ok, and seemed to have gotten rid of that midrange gurggle , but I just have a feeling something still isnt right.

It idles around 1100-1200 when all warmed up after a rip down the trail.. If I raise that will it mess up anything in the carbs?

Also I need a new airbox filter as you can see , and was wondering if I could use something else temporarily. Maybe cutout a piece of a Merv 3 furnace filter?

Oh and speaking of aitbox.. Also as you can see in the pics , none of the carb boots are actually on the dang carbs!!!

Frustrated is not even the word as I have already dumped over $1000 into this sled, so I can't even sell it... I'd never profit anything

Also if you look between the carbs on one of the pics there is a yellow fuel line thats not attached to anything. Is that supposed to be like that?

Sorry to rant guys, but I just thought I'd ask these few questions here since you all have helped me so much in the past.
 

yellow lines are overflows/Vents as far as carb boots easy fix unscrew the air box screws take off and pull out air box divider put you hand in box push boots on and re tighten boots easy fix just little hard on the back after a wile.
 
You NEED to fix those clamps! Need to be on there good, any sucking air could cause a lean burn down. The hose that isn't hooked to anything looks like the overflow/vent tubing that shouldn't be hooked to anything on that end. You should be able to adjust idle with out messing anything up.
 
00sxrjoe said:
yellow lines are overflows/Vents as far as carb boots easy fix unscrew the air box screws take off and pull out air box divider put you hand in box push boots on and re tighten boots easy fix just little hard on the back after a wile.
Click to expand...
Do I need to disconnect the coils or wires going to the cdi box?
 
Not to steer away from the main topic, but, the sled mechanic at the shop you brought the sled to didn't installed the carbs properly. That would concern me about anything else on the sled that he touched. Maybe the reason you're having such a hard time getting the sled to run/perform as it should is because of the mechanic that's been working on it. If they can't mount the carbs in the carb boots, well, they would never get my hard earned money.

Take a look on craigslist for someone that's parting out a 97-02 redhead. I'm pretty sure all the top filters are the same on those red heads.
 
comatoast said:
Do I need to disconnect the coils or wires going to the cdi box?
Click to expand...

Unplug the two bullet type connectors. They are male/female and cannot be plugged back in the wrong way. Once you have the screws and 10MM bolt out you can flop the cover over the front side of the motor out of your way. The red heads I have worked on have 2 screws that hold the CDI to the air box. If this is the way your 97 is just pull the screws out and let it dangle. Take a bunch more pics in case you run into a "where does this go?"
 
Thanks guys. Yea. The carb boot thing is concerning. As is the fact they weren't on right the first time they cleaned the carbs. I'll dig into the airbox tomorrow. Where can I find that filter material?

Thanks again guys
 
Should I just take the stock filter off for now? Its not really doing anything and its actually crumbling off... Last thing I need in my carbs now...
 
Good idea. I suppose it doesn't need to be anything fancy, but I just Dont want the crumbling pieces of mine to fall off in the carbs
 
The humidifier filter is a little more open than the uni filter stuff, seems like it would help it breath a little better. I used hot glue to hold mine down. Sure beats almost $50 for a new filter!
 
when i put my airbox back in, i put the boots on the carbs first ( i actually leave them on). then drop the airbox back into the boots. i dont know if its the proper way, but its my way and it works good. if you are gonna snowmobile, you might as well figure it out. because taking it to a so called "sled mechanic" can be expensive and dissapointing. and, great ideas with the airbox filters from everyone. on my way to menards now! lol
 
Ok guys. Well I took off the airbix, cleaned it all out cleaned the carb base where the boots go, and the boots.. Everything is back together all tight now and rides good.. Oil light came on. I Dont think I hit anything or anything came loose. When does the oil light usually come on? When I had the airbox off I noticed it was a little over 1/8 .. Yes its low but I haven't had it out at all this year. I'm hoping its just a warning indicator as I'm about an hour away from the nearest shop..

I've always used amsoil interceptor in it.. Is that ok or should I switch to yamalube
 
Yes it is just an indicator light letting you know your low on oil. I don't know how far u can go it depends on how your injection pump is set I always carry extra oil just in case.
 
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