Carpenter69
New member
Recently purchased a 96 Vmax. Upon running the sled the first time noticed it has a two position idle.? When it's first started it revs at 3k rpm, press the throttle and release it drops to 800, press the throttle again it returns to 3k, so on and so on. Is this some feature I'm not aware of or is there something amiss? Also having issue with clutch engagement/disengagement at low rpms. It seems to jump to engage and snaps out when disengaging it's not a smooth transition on the lower rpms. Have removed cover and cleaned around rollers,arms,and slides. Didn't seem to help. Noticed sheath has wiggle room around slides, how much is normal? Any help is appreciated. Thanks
badassbanshee
New member
I'm fairly certain you have an issue... as I'm not aware of any 2 stage idle system on Mikuni carbs. I know the 96's came with "smart carbs" but I doubt that has anything to do with idle.
Sounds more like a symptom of dirty carbs or an air leak. If you just got the machine it would be a good idea to clean the carbs. While your in there take a look at the jetting and needle position. I believe stock jetting is a 156.3 main and 50 pilot with the needle in the middle clip. Your air screws should be at 1 1/8 turns out and it should idle at 1550 +-100 rpm once warm. Mine idles around 2500 when cold but will quickly settle at 1500 with a couple blips of the throttle. Could also be an air leak. Check your rubber intake boots, boost bottle and airbox boots for cracks.
I had the same thing happen on my Banshee once. Temp dropped like 40 degrees overnight and I didn't rejet. When I fired it up she idled way higher than normal. I could blip the throttle and it would idle normal but would almost instantly idle up again. Took one pass up the hill like that and by the time I got to the top the motor was on fire. (Not literally thank god!) Fortunately I caught it just in time to avoid a burndown. One more pass and she would have melted...
Sounds more like a symptom of dirty carbs or an air leak. If you just got the machine it would be a good idea to clean the carbs. While your in there take a look at the jetting and needle position. I believe stock jetting is a 156.3 main and 50 pilot with the needle in the middle clip. Your air screws should be at 1 1/8 turns out and it should idle at 1550 +-100 rpm once warm. Mine idles around 2500 when cold but will quickly settle at 1500 with a couple blips of the throttle. Could also be an air leak. Check your rubber intake boots, boost bottle and airbox boots for cracks.
I had the same thing happen on my Banshee once. Temp dropped like 40 degrees overnight and I didn't rejet. When I fired it up she idled way higher than normal. I could blip the throttle and it would idle normal but would almost instantly idle up again. Took one pass up the hill like that and by the time I got to the top the motor was on fire. (Not literally thank god!) Fortunately I caught it just in time to avoid a burndown. One more pass and she would have melted...
air screw adj or to small pilot jet sounds more like Idle hang
Carpenter69
New member
Will check into it. Coming to find out "this sled needs nothing" wasn't exactly true. Couldn't test drive it at the time, so the trusting fool that I am took his word for it. Wasn't expecting a new sled, but as many issues as I've had so far, I would of tried to get a better deal. At least I have my old sled (81 XLV 540) she runs like a champ, have spent less than 200 bucks in 4 years on repairs. Was hoping to get struck twice,
caravanman
New member
The idle has never hung up like that on my XT. Sounds too lean to me, like the others have already said.
The smart carbs that came out in 1996 were only on the 600 long track mountian sleds "Mountain Max" I think? or "ST"??? That was a long time ago.
If you want to get that 600 running the way the factory should have done it here is the tech sheet of how mine has been set up for almost 9,000 miles now without a single problem.
http://www.totallyamaha.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=45616&d=1299847864
The only thing I have changed on this setup over the years is removing the 3 primary spring shims to lower the engagement speed some.
PS: If not already done on yours, these XT's need serious help in the weight transfer department before you can get enough traction to lift the ski's.
I have adjustable transfer rods on mine, that today would be nearly impossiable to find. You can modify the stock rods to get some traction. To me its a must do mod.
The smart carbs that came out in 1996 were only on the 600 long track mountian sleds "Mountain Max" I think? or "ST"??? That was a long time ago.
If you want to get that 600 running the way the factory should have done it here is the tech sheet of how mine has been set up for almost 9,000 miles now without a single problem.
http://www.totallyamaha.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=45616&d=1299847864
The only thing I have changed on this setup over the years is removing the 3 primary spring shims to lower the engagement speed some.
PS: If not already done on yours, these XT's need serious help in the weight transfer department before you can get enough traction to lift the ski's.
I have adjustable transfer rods on mine, that today would be nearly impossiable to find. You can modify the stock rods to get some traction. To me its a must do mod.
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