Alright... finally got the sled out on the trail today, make it down the trail about 20 minutes to go to the gas station, fill up the sled and right about to start the dawm thing, the pull cord handle stays in my hand! 
Can I change the cable with out undoing the spring ???
Can I change the cable with out undoing the spring ???
Devilin AblueDress!
New member
The re-coil coil spring? Yes but it can be tricky.
I think its time to retire old sleds! I love these SRX's but its two Ive owned and they seem like nothing but junk!! ive knew people with some that have been bullet proof, I keep getting all these little stupid problems. I guess that's what happens with people old tired machines that had nothing but wax as maintnance
Devilin AblueDress!
New member
All part of sledding. ALL sleds have pull ropes that will wear out. I changed one preventively as it was looking bad and have had to change the one on the girlfriends SxR twice......first time was a not intended for pull starter rope type replacement...lasted almost two years!
devinzz1
Active member
the spring should stay inside its slot. just lay flat and slowly pull off the plastic recoil, maybe give it a tap or two because that spring is no fun getting back in. Some people keep a strap with them to start it by the spinning the primary. When you get all the maintenance issues sorted out shel be good to ya unlike modern sleds and their "disposable" engines.
yeah, I realise that too! I just hope I can enjoy it soon. I bought it to ride the trails, we got tons of snow this year!! more then ive seen in the past 10 years... looking at the trails today, they were beautiful! well, the list is getting shorter. just need one powervalves and a cable. Im going to try and do the cable without taking the recoil apart.
Devilin AblueDress!
New member
Loosely figure out how much rope you need to get out to the handle/cowl, mark it. The plastic pulley/rope hosing has a notch in it. I have found it easier to fish the rope threw the pulley with no tension on spring. Push/fish the other end out the hole in the re-coil housing. By putting the rope into that notch you can turn the pulley winding the spring with out the rope bucking the system. Make sure you have enough wrap on spring for it to want to pull your length mark into recoil. Pull some of the rope out, fold it in half and tie a loose knot with folded section. Knot will stop rope from going to far as well as make it easier to fish rope threw out to cowling. If your not familiar with route look for tell tale shiney spots where rope has ben rubbing.
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Thanks man. I will give it a shot tomorrow! and I am familiar with where the rope goes, so shouldn't be a problem!
Devilin AblueDress!
New member
Before you bolt the re-coil back on to motor pull the rope a few times to make sure the jaws are opening/closeing like the are supposed to........Forgot that step in the run threw.
devinzz1
Active member
And loctite those bolts!
Devilin AblueDress!
New member
Now that you mention the bolts I remember there was 1 or 2 that are a PITA to get to. The one towards the front/top of the re-coil you can loosen the bolt for the bulk head brace and slide a flat screw driver in there to get enough room to put a socket on the re-coil bolt.
superfan75
New member
Yeah that is a pretty easy and cheap fix, don't get down about it you'll be riding in no time. I changed mine last year in about 20 min and you don't have to worry about the spring. The hardest part is getting the broken rope out. Once you do put the twist you need into the recoil and feed the rope in and your practically done. I found its a little easier to have a pair of vise grips on the outside of the recoil once the rope is all in the recoil. The you can work on installing the recoil and feeding the rope to install the handle without fear of letting go of the rope and have it get wound up in the recoil.
Here's a trick I picked up on this site a few years ago that really helps.If you can fish the old rope out through the hole again pull it all the way out til it stops,grab a c clamp and a rag or piece of rubber and use the clamp to hold the recoil open as you change the rope.Your clamping the plastic hub against the outer housing to keep it in place but remember that the spring is under tension and it is just plastic so don't go cranking on it too much.That way you don't have to rewind the spring,it's already wound,just let the new rope pull itself onto the hub as you let the c clamp off.You want the rubber or rag between the c clamp and your recoil out housing so it doesn't get marked up.
Of course where yours broke you will most likely have to rewind the spring anyway but if it didn't unwind this is by far the easiest method of changing the recoil rope I've ever used.
Of course where yours broke you will most likely have to rewind the spring anyway but if it didn't unwind this is by far the easiest method of changing the recoil rope I've ever used.
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A couple of bucks
VIP Member
X2...Done it this way MANY MANY times.
Devilin AblueDress!
New member
That's what the "pull some rope out, fold it in half and tie a loose knot in it" was about (instead of vice grips) If you pinch it to hard your going to create where it will break next time.
I bought a complete assembly as backup, carried everywhere in a plastic bag in the trunk.
yupp, I got the sled fixed this morning, wasn't so bad... all I did was pull the original cord out as far as it went, I wedged the plastic wheel with cartboard so I can take out the old rope. I then made a knot in the new rope and fished It in. I then applied abit of pressure on the rope and let it spin back in the recoil. installed it and place the handle where it should go on the rope and pull the motor over a few times. Works great.