sorry in advance for the long question
I just bought a 90 exciter as my first sled to own. I've been riding my family's 85 bravo since i was a kid, but this is the first one i've been on for any time with any power. when I picked it up and brought it to a friends house to have his dad look at it because he owned 2 back in the day and still has one, and knows them inside out and backwards, it ran great. He told me the engine was really strong, the clutching just needed to be played with because it was slow to backshift and shifted out at around 6800. i took it for a couple of short rides while it was there, and it had one issue where it didnt have any power coming across a field, but after i let off the throttle and went again, it was fine. after i brought it home, the next time i went to ride it i started having issues. it idles fine, and puts around the yard okay, but whenever i tried to get it anywhere above about 10 mph it would just bog, to the point where it would actually stop moving while i was still on the throttle. It wouldn't die, but i couldnt even bring the idle up until it idles for about 15 seconds, then i could atleast get it home, very slowly. I thought maybe the fuel pump was dying or ice in the lines, so i put some gas line antifreeze in it, but to no avail. when I went to pull the airbox off, i notice there was a fair amount of fuel on the carb boots. so after some more looking around, i found one of the plug caps was a 1k ohm, so i replaced both of them and put new plugs in. i took it for a ride at about -25 Celsius late at night, and it seemed like i fixed it. but apparently not, because when i took it out again yesterday, it wont rev much past 4000, unless i snap it and spin the track, and even then i only ever got about 5900 when it was spinning. on a hard packed road, i can snap it and go relatively fast, but its hard to say if it will maintain because i havent had much room. but if i try to roll onto it at all, it will bog at around 4000 and stay there. also, if i snap it to about 3 quarter throttle, it will rev for a second, then bog back to 4000. I also put new buttons in the secondary and cleaned it, because the helix was riding on metal. i have had the left side carb off to clean it, and it looked spotless, but havent gotten to the right side yet. today in -10 i can start it stone cold at half choke, shut it off immediately, and it will stay running, so maybe choke problems ? also, it starts very easily every time, normally first or second pull, but sometimes it will start on one cylinder for about 10 seconds then catch the other one.
again, i sincerely apologize for the huge question, i just didnt want to miss anything. Any and all help is greatly appreciated
I just bought a 90 exciter as my first sled to own. I've been riding my family's 85 bravo since i was a kid, but this is the first one i've been on for any time with any power. when I picked it up and brought it to a friends house to have his dad look at it because he owned 2 back in the day and still has one, and knows them inside out and backwards, it ran great. He told me the engine was really strong, the clutching just needed to be played with because it was slow to backshift and shifted out at around 6800. i took it for a couple of short rides while it was there, and it had one issue where it didnt have any power coming across a field, but after i let off the throttle and went again, it was fine. after i brought it home, the next time i went to ride it i started having issues. it idles fine, and puts around the yard okay, but whenever i tried to get it anywhere above about 10 mph it would just bog, to the point where it would actually stop moving while i was still on the throttle. It wouldn't die, but i couldnt even bring the idle up until it idles for about 15 seconds, then i could atleast get it home, very slowly. I thought maybe the fuel pump was dying or ice in the lines, so i put some gas line antifreeze in it, but to no avail. when I went to pull the airbox off, i notice there was a fair amount of fuel on the carb boots. so after some more looking around, i found one of the plug caps was a 1k ohm, so i replaced both of them and put new plugs in. i took it for a ride at about -25 Celsius late at night, and it seemed like i fixed it. but apparently not, because when i took it out again yesterday, it wont rev much past 4000, unless i snap it and spin the track, and even then i only ever got about 5900 when it was spinning. on a hard packed road, i can snap it and go relatively fast, but its hard to say if it will maintain because i havent had much room. but if i try to roll onto it at all, it will bog at around 4000 and stay there. also, if i snap it to about 3 quarter throttle, it will rev for a second, then bog back to 4000. I also put new buttons in the secondary and cleaned it, because the helix was riding on metal. i have had the left side carb off to clean it, and it looked spotless, but havent gotten to the right side yet. today in -10 i can start it stone cold at half choke, shut it off immediately, and it will stay running, so maybe choke problems ? also, it starts very easily every time, normally first or second pull, but sometimes it will start on one cylinder for about 10 seconds then catch the other one.
again, i sincerely apologize for the huge question, i just didnt want to miss anything. Any and all help is greatly appreciated
Also, i am getting a bit of fuel out of the carb vent lines. And i believe the tors has been unhooked, because the wires are cut off at the carbs, but beyond that I don't know. I'm assuming it's not the TORS because it ran fine at first
bluewho
Active member
It sounds like the choke is sticking making it bog , easy check to remove the caps on the carbs and pull on the plunger as you try the choke handle.Water gets in the cables from the dash over the years and cause sticking. Went thru that myself replacing the cables is the only fix.
well i have had both choke plungers out, and they seem to move fine when i work the lever, both half and full.
bluewho
Active member
Yes do they return all the way back is all you need if they are adjusted properly.I would start mine warm it up than remove the cable ends pull on the plungers so I could ride for the day.Could be crap in the other carb.
they sure seem to be going all the way back in. and they both have a bit of slack, not positive if they are adjusted completely right or not. But when i was just outside with it, i noticed when it wasn't fully warmed up yet, if i pulled of the left choke cable manually, there was hardly any difference in idle, dropped a little. But if I pulled on the right one, it almost died
Also, I pulled the other carb apart last night. Apart from the mixture screw being out a little far, it was perfectly clean from what I could see
bluewho
Active member
Sounds like the left is sticking pull on it with some vise grips see if it will come out.Wd40 will help down the cable ends for a test but will dry out.
as in pull the plunger out of the carb, and pull down on the cable ? or the other way ?
bluewho
Active member
Leave it hooked to cable out of carb pull down on the plunger while you hold the cable in the other hand.
well I havent had a chance to play with the choke cables, but I did pull the plugs out of it today, I'm putting a picture of the two up. These plugs have about half an hour of running on them, they are only a few days old. The sled has moved maybe a few hundred feet. I'm no good at reading plugs, but that seems like the left is either very rich, or not sparking properly. Someone who knows more about plugs, feel free to chime in
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Throttle Junkie35
New member
If pulling the choke cable while running on the one side didnt do much to the way it ran, I would suspect a leaking needle and seat since you said you had fuel leaking out of one of the vent tubes. If that is not the case, and the carbs are 100% clean, I would say check the compression in that dead cylinder. Maybe try swapping the plug wires for the heck of it and see if the problem travels with it.
Well I am going to check compression later tonight, i will post my results. As for the needle and seat, i never actually pulled the needle, but i did flip the carb over and tried to blow in the fuel inlet, and could not get anything through, so I assumed they were okay. And are you able to switch the wires around ? I put new caps on, but i thought the wires are built into the coil ?
Throttle Junkie35
New member
Just switch the wires from left to right on the plugs. You might have to remove the coil to get the shorter wire to reach the pto side. Take a nut and a bolt and attach the ground wire to the coil when testing this. The ignition fires both cylinders every 180 degrees, so it will run as normal doing this.
well i checked the compression, not sure exactly because the gauge loses its pressure almost immediately, but I had my girlfriend watch it and she said it was 115-120 in both, so its not a compression issue. I switched the plug wires around, and there was no noticeable difference in how it ran, and this time when I pulled on the choke cables, they both did about the same thing to what the engine did, almost killed it. I checked spark again, and it seems nice and strong on both plugs. Snow is pretty deep here now, and it's all I can do to move the sled around the yard, I'm really getting frustrated with it. Went back to fundamentals and checked to see if plugs were wet after it ran, nothing out of the ordinary from what I could tell. Not excessively wet, not bone dry, just a little bit of wet residue
Throttle Junkie35
New member
its the needle and seat or the float is adjusted incorrectly. Replace the needle and seat, check your float height and jetting.
Well, to anyone following this, I made two developments tonight. One, when I was checking spark again, i had the left side plug against the head, and the recoil side wire just sitting near the head. When I pulled it over, the coil arced on the recoil side from where the wire comes out of the coil, to the ground in the middle. If I put a plug in that wire to check spark, it doesnt arc at the coil, and the left side wire will never do it. Not sure if that has anything to do with my problem, but it's something. But, something else I stumbled upon, is it looks like the oil cable is broken at the throttle. So that would explain why it idles great, and it hasn't seized, but runs like shit at any sort of throttle, it's not getting enough oil. I'm going to pinch off the oil line for now and just premix, I really hope this fixes it.
Any input from anybody is still greatly appreciated
Any input from anybody is still greatly appreciated
Throttle Junkie35
New member
I bet when you give it throttle its arcing out and not getting enough voltage to the plug to fire correctly. That would make sense why that cylinder is weak. I would replace the coil and go from there.
I'm not sure about That being the problem, because it's the opposite wire than I seemed to be having troubles with. But I am deffinetely going to replace it. I'm thinking it's more the fact it's not getting any oil beyond whatever it injects at idle
Throttle Junkie35
New member
Your probably right, however you may have multiple problems. I would replace the coil and oil pump cable. You know its broke, why not fix it to eliminate the possibility? If you pinch the oil line between the tank and the oil pump, the pump wont get any oil. You will destroy the the pump by running it dry. Im not 100% sure, but you may hurt it as well by plugging the out put lines. Also, running your sled with a broken pump cable, lines unplugged may destroy the pump as well if you are running the stock injection set up where the oil lines feed into the fuel lines. It's a possibility that fuel can work its way down the lines, dilute the oil and wreck the pump. I bet you can see through your oil lines if you have been running it like that for a while. One thing I learned with these 570's is they need to be 100% perfect or you will be walking.
I hope you get it figured out and get some riding in. Good luck.
I hope you get it figured out and get some riding in. Good luck.