yellowandfast
New member
Id like to lessen the approach angle of the track as I install a 136 track in my Vmax.
I have the rail extensions but thought if I just moved everything back 7.5" Id be good?
Anybody else do this?
Thanks for the help.
Jeremy
I have the rail extensions but thought if I just moved everything back 7.5" Id be good?
Anybody else do this?
Thanks for the help.
Jeremy
I have not moved anything back that far, but I did move a 121 skid back 3.5" to install a 128" track. Remember if you do move it back, you will still only have the same footprint of a 121 skid. If you want more flotation, you should get some short extensions and then relocate 3.5 to 4" back. Oh, I ran 8" wheels as well. If you want to run the oem wheels move back 4" for a mid length extension. You can also make your own tunnell extension out of standard alum plate. Al
Here is a photo of my sxr with a 3.5 relocated skid running a 128" track with 8" wheels.
correct me if i am wrong, but doesnt the 7.5" move put your brackets very near the point of attachment for the tunnel extension? in other words, a very weak point?
funny thing about them old vmaxes is the approach angle was actually not that steep. the two ups and the sts with the stock 136's had a desirable angle, but the rails made it so.
heres what i do on the 121-136 conversions. first is to rid the oem rear oblong 3 bolt brackets and fashion your own drop brackets. i use 1/4" aluminum. you need to put that rear scissor mount down out of the tunnel about an inch or so depending on track choice. the front scissor mount need to drop down about 1/2-5/8, seems like that still hits the stock backing plate. center crossbar drops incrementally between the two. by altering these, you keep the front end in check. theres a few tricks you need to follow to keep the range of motion of your existing skid with the rail extensions and allow track clearance.
about 1 1/4" track is as tall i as will go without swapping drivers to 8t for the 1 1/2 track.
funny thing about them old vmaxes is the approach angle was actually not that steep. the two ups and the sts with the stock 136's had a desirable angle, but the rails made it so.
heres what i do on the 121-136 conversions. first is to rid the oem rear oblong 3 bolt brackets and fashion your own drop brackets. i use 1/4" aluminum. you need to put that rear scissor mount down out of the tunnel about an inch or so depending on track choice. the front scissor mount need to drop down about 1/2-5/8, seems like that still hits the stock backing plate. center crossbar drops incrementally between the two. by altering these, you keep the front end in check. theres a few tricks you need to follow to keep the range of motion of your existing skid with the rail extensions and allow track clearance.
about 1 1/4" track is as tall i as will go without swapping drivers to 8t for the 1 1/2 track.
yellowandfast
New member
Good info, thanks guys.
I had not actually measured my sled, I was just thinking out loud.
I have a 1 1/4 lug track and I also got a great deal on the rail extensions.,
I will have to do some more thinking on this.
I had not actually measured my sled, I was just thinking out loud.
I have a 1 1/4 lug track and I also got a great deal on the rail extensions.,
I will have to do some more thinking on this.
I found moving the skid back 3.5" and running a 128" track, the ride greatly improved. I was trying to lengthen the "wheel base" Similar to what Polaris has done with some of there skids. Now, I much prefer to ride the 128" Sxr vs the 121 Sxr. I also added Viper trailing arms and spindles as well as Apex saddless ski's. Going through the woops now is much smoother. Al