in over my head?

shafediggity

New member
Joined
Jan 27, 2014
Messages
4
Location
michigan
Working on a 98 srx 600. So my outer drive cogs are toward the outside too much and are hardly making any contact with the drive lugs, this is what I believe is causing the inner drive lugs to tear off. Track had proper tension. I get my skid out with little problem, my problem now is the outer drive cogs are not allowing me to slide the axle toward the pto side enough to get it out. I've started tearing the brake caliper off, chain case cover is off including the chain and gears. I can not seem to get the chain case to move enough to get the clearance needed to get the axle out. Any suggestions? Feeling lost...
 

And....yes removing the chaincase is a real pain to remove but this way you can change the lower bearing. I have had it fail and you don't get home.
 
The only thing that seems to be holding me up from removing the inner half of the chain case is the shaft connecting the secondary clutch and top gear. Is there a trick to getting it free from that?
 
So once you've removed both gears (make sure you take notes on how the washers/spacers go), remove the secondary clutch. Then remove the bearing holding cup. You should then be able to slide the jackshaft out.
 
When the jackshaft on my viper was stuck I just unbolted the jackshaft bearing retainers. Then the whole chain case and shaft would move out of the way. Plus helps with then getting leverage to get the jacks hat free from case if needed.
 
Good advice above. Many times it is simply the brake rotor that binds. Just rock everything back and forth while you pull on the chaincase, it usually comes right out. Once you get it out you will realize how simple it is. This are really easy to pull just check for what is binding. Some times a rubber Dead Blow hammer can jar it loose. If you can get someone to help it is even easier. Just pull on the chain case and rock the brake rotor side to side and rotate it.
 
Thanks for all the advice guys. It's in my buddies pole barn and he decide on a last minute ski trip to Boyne. I won't be able to get to it til Monday, but I think you guys have given me the insight I needed as well as a glimmer of hope lol.
 
Well it's looking like I'm gonna have to cut and replace the drive shaft. Chain case is loose and drive cogs still aren't allowing enough clearance to get it out. Slightly sucks.
 
Whoa, never had to cut a driveshaft. Slide it towards the chain case side and drop the speedo side out first. Then pull it out of the chain case side. Make sure the track isn't what is keeping it from sliding all the way over.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
 
I think he means the outer drive cogs has moved out of place. The chaincase has to be removed completely to remove shaft.If it still wont come out remove band heat up the cog and drive it with a hammer or use a steel clamp.In the end you probably need to replace your drive cogs as they do wear.
 
I agree with ding no sense or need to cut it.you will end up with 2pc junk shaft.take brake caliper off case.I am pretty sure there will be a post on here showing whats involved.once off you will be able to remove back chaincase.the shaft is probably hanging up on bottom bearing.CAREFULLY pry back case at bottom will pulling and wiggling top of case.I know it is a pain getting the return springs back on caliper.by removing caliper it will allow the case to move without the top shaft adding extra drag.I had same trouble with our vmax not that it is vmax problem.I just changed both bottom bearings on our 2 vipers and the vmax in the fall.had a hell of a time with vmax.I pulled it off the next day cant remember why.same thing tight at bottom with new bearing.did you remove 3 bolts holding speedo side lower bearing cup if not you will not get it out.if bearing is stuck on shaft as usual.by taking 3 bolts out and removing outer cup.you can then leave back cup on.this will make it so much easier to clean shaft and remove old bearing when you remove the 2 set screws.just remember to pry at bottom.also make sure that you got 2 bolts at bottom of case out.being your first time I tried to cover all the things I remember probably done it at least 20 or 30 times over the years.calm down go easy.I will try to check back if I can answer any questions you may.I am sure that some can do without removing caliper.I find it eliminates one more reason for it being ackward and hard to remove if you only have 2 hands.
 
All good stuff. If you have the track driver/shaft moving than you must have the set screws loose on the spedo side bearing. Take the chain case off like recomended and replace the lower bearing while you are their. Use a big pry bar and slide the outer track driver back into place(or get it close), that will give you more room to slide it towards the chain case side and get the shaft to clear the spedo side first. Once out you can set the drivers in proper locations, It is in the service manual or on here also. Key point, make sure you use lock collars on the outer track drivers. The 98 SRX's did not have lock collars, Yamaha added them on newer years because of this very problem. On assembly try to get the spedo side set screw in the same witness mark to ensure proper alignment, that way you do not side load the bearing or have chain alignment issues.
 


Back
Top