Yamaha Nutz
New member
I know I saw them a while back the plans to make a the holding fixture and grunt tool out of steel .....just talked with the local dealer (which I can use theirs any time but rather have my own in my shop) and ouch K&L do not give them away by any means ....like I said I know I saw the plans some where here but can't find them ....my buddies dad said we would cut everything on the plasma table for me an then I can weld it all together
bluewho
Active member
I made one that bolts the back of the clutch to my work bench using the 3 stock holes.Remove cover and have a tool that has 3 fingers just smaller than the towers with a hole in the centre to go over shaft and a big azz 4 ft bar welded to it.
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
snomofo
VIP Lifetime Member
I made one that bolts the back of the clutch to my work bench using the 3 stock holes.Remove cover and have a tool that has 3 fingers just smaller than the towers with a hole in the centre to go over shaft and a big azz 4 ft bar welded to it.
I did something similar using 1/4" plate drilled to accomodate the three holes on the clutch backside and 1/4"x1" tabs that go into a vise. I modified the triangular shaped 3/4" "socket" used for Polaris' primary spiders.
shaggyzr2
Active member
Cool, I was just thinking about this, getting sick of having to pay someone everytime I need to replace bushings.
mr4g63tsi
New member
Ya once you do this you will wonder why you didn't do it sooner. Pretty simple procedure thanks to bluemonster1.
Yamaha Nutz
New member
while those tools look like they work well I need the correct plans as they would not hold up in the shop as it would be used at least 4-5 times minimum a week
snomofo
VIP Lifetime Member
while those tools look like they work well I need the correct plans as they would not hold up in the shop as it would be used at least 4-5 times minimum a week
Don't know that I've seen any "correct" plans for the tool. You need to make a device that holds the fixed sheave and one that turns the spider. Or in Blue's case, just the opposite.
The tool Yamaha references in the shop manual is a universal tool that fits different size fixed sheaves and uses the untapped holes in the back of the fixed sheave to hold it from spinning. The part that turns the spider has three fingers that engage the side of the spider with a hole in the center that slides over the shaft to keep it from twisting when reafing on the breaker bar.
shaggyzr2
Active member
snomofo
VIP Lifetime Member
While it looks like it may work, I'd be concerned that you aren't engaging all three legs of the spider.
RB2001SRX700
Lifetime Member
easy way to hold the bottom is to get a piece of square stock 1 1/2" by 1 1/2". Dill 2 holes that line up with the bolts for the starter ring. Drill them out and bolt the bottom to that then mount in a vise. I bought one from a member a while back. Looks a lot like shaggyzr2's but has 3 pins to line up with the spider. Works Great. Take Shaggyzr2's idea and just modify to touch all points on the spider.
shaggyzr2
Active member
I just modified this thing so it now touches all 3. I just tried it out but I can't get the spider loose, I did heat it up but maybe not enough.
RB2001SRX700
Lifetime Member
Reverse thread. I figured I would say it seeing I did not see it in the reply's
shaggyzr2
Active member
Reverse thread. I figured I would say it seeing I did not see it in the reply's
I already knew about the reverse thread. I think I just need more leverage, I've got a 1/2" drive about 24" long breaker bar, I don't think thats enough.
RB2001SRX700
Lifetime Member
put a pipe on the end of the breaker bar. That helps.