madzx2
Member
the other day i went and filled up my srx. on the way home from the gas station i heard the worst metal on metal sound in my life. i coasted to a stop and when i resumed riding it was gone. when i got home i looked under the hood and the bearing retainer was loose and the bearing was moved towards the chaincase. i tightened everything up with red locktight. today i rode around the yard and it seemed fine at first. i looked at it again and noticed that the bearing was moved a little towards the chaincase again. do bearing retainers wear out? mine looks like its diameter is to big for the bearing. i have a belt deflection adjuster that goes on after the clutch and i started thinking, everytime i tighten the secondary on the jackshaft could the adjuster be pushing the clutch and bearing in to far on the shaft? YEP it sure does! all the bearings were new this season. how can i remedy my problem? thanks for any suggestions.
If you spin a bearing (outer race) or have a bent jackshaft the bearing holder will get damaged over time. Are you sure both halves of the bearing holder are on the inboard side of the frame? I would check your jackshaft, get a new bearing, and bearing holder and replace them. Also are you setting the set screws with locktite? What adjuster are you referring to?
madzx2
Member
Both halves are on the inside of the frame. Yes set screws are tightened with red lock tight. The adjuster is purple anodized, not sure of the brand. All the deflection hardware I'm the secondary is removed and this adjuster goes on between the secondary and clutch bolt. It has a set screw in a locking ring that you can turn in or out to open the clutch or close it. It doesn't have the collar between the clutch bolt and jackshaft.
on those deflection adjusters the aluminum spacer is shorter then the stock spacer is. I dont know the amount but i have one on my sled and know the spacer is shorter, that may be your problem.
madzx2
Member
I don't even have a spacer, i ordered the parts to go back to stock. Hopefully that cures my problem.
right theres your problem then, without the spacer your just tightening the clutch against the bearing inner race, so its pushing in on it. need the spacer so the bolt tightens up against the jackshaft, the clutch is just captive in the space between.
madzx2
Member
Could you measure your spacer don? I think my adjuster is a maximum performance one.
I have been having same issues with the jackshaft clutch bearing. It worked right thru the inner flange twice in 2 days. Shortened our trip by a day. Looking for ideas ? Thank you
ya, next chance i get i can do that no problem.
stock spacer, 51 milimeters
spacer for dial adjuster, atleast the one I have, is 45mm.
When you use these style adjusters, they do push the back of the secondary against the bearing with what ever side force the secondary spring has at the start.
When you use these, you need to make sure your set screws are tight, even to the point of putting locktite in the hole, then put the set screws in so the locktite is squeezed out between the bearing and shaft to help lock it even harder. Also, use a washer behind the secondary. If you do not, over time, the bearings narrow edge, will eat into the secondary shaft which is softer. Without this adjuster, there is no side load at any time on this bearing and it is not ever an issue. Another issue I had using mine was the aluminum to aluminum twisting that goes on between the dial and the helix. It would make the surfaces rough and over time and change the adjustment a little. I glued two steel washers that were the correct size, one to the helix and one to the adjuster. Problem solved. I later found using other helixes that just having the steel on the adjuster was enough to stop the problem.
When you talked to me on the phone, I never thought to ask if you had an adjuster since they are rarely used.
spacer for dial adjuster, atleast the one I have, is 45mm.
When you use these style adjusters, they do push the back of the secondary against the bearing with what ever side force the secondary spring has at the start.
When you use these, you need to make sure your set screws are tight, even to the point of putting locktite in the hole, then put the set screws in so the locktite is squeezed out between the bearing and shaft to help lock it even harder. Also, use a washer behind the secondary. If you do not, over time, the bearings narrow edge, will eat into the secondary shaft which is softer. Without this adjuster, there is no side load at any time on this bearing and it is not ever an issue. Another issue I had using mine was the aluminum to aluminum twisting that goes on between the dial and the helix. It would make the surfaces rough and over time and change the adjustment a little. I glued two steel washers that were the correct size, one to the helix and one to the adjuster. Problem solved. I later found using other helixes that just having the steel on the adjuster was enough to stop the problem.
When you talked to me on the phone, I never thought to ask if you had an adjuster since they are rarely used.
I am running a stock secondary.
when you tighten down your bolt for the sec, your clutch should lightly float in and out, if it doesnt, the shims are not correct and your putting pressure on the bearing when you tighten down the sec clutch bolt on the jackshaft.
I have about .090 " floating room. I am wondering if secondary clutch is binding aliitle and the belt is putting a lot of side pressure on the whole clutch instead of it shifting like it should ?
madzx2
Member
We'll I got all the stock hardware put in and rode it 80 miles and the bearing slid over again, season is done for me. Jackshaft has some nice deep gouges in it now.
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