Mountain Max carb compatibility (also, plug cap question)

C

chikkenvoicesinmyhed

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Just wondering if anyone knows if the carbs off another triple can be used in a Mountain Max 700 from 1999. The part number is definitely different, but I dunno how different the units actually are. I searched on this forum but couldn't find any answers... I may or may not try replacing mine and the choice is limited on ebay.

The first thing I'll try, though, is cleaning and maybe replacing the spark plug boots which gave no reading on my ohmeter... I do get spark, not a fat one but definitely blue, but I am suspecting the connection nonetheless.

Thanks for reading
 

Any tm-33 carb rack should bolt on if it's 98 or newer. 97 doesn't have provisions for the carb heat. You would of course want to make sure that they are set up for your jetting requirements and clean them first.
 
Backwoods M Max said:
Did you pull the plug caps to ohm them? You can't get back through the coil and find a ground with it on the wire still.
Click to expand...

To ohm the secondary resistance (from boot to coil), I had to remove them of course, and I get a reading now that I've put new ones on, though it seems below spec, it only flashes for a second on the meter (~1900 ohm instead of I think 2700 to 3700 listed in the Clymer manual) then reads 1 so I dunno if that's conclusive. To ohm the primary resistance (betw. the small wires coming in and out of the coil), I did not disconnect the boot, so maybe I'll try that. I've ordered 2 new ones anyway (should have ordered 3).

Since the sled will run fine on gas injected into the cylinder (and sometimes sprayed into airbox, but no consistent results), it seems the cylinders aren't getting gas.

I've just ordered a set of carbs (couldn't hurt to have a backup) and I'm looking into replacing the needles and jets. It could still be bad gas in the line though, I've read others having success blowing it out, which I haven't done, I've only drained the tank and put new gas in there, though I have pulled it over a few hundred times. The fuel pump does pump fuel when the cord is pulled but doesn't spit it, just kind of moves gas a 1/4 in. up the 3 carb fuel lines per pull. Going to check the condition of the gas in my bowl today, blow the line from tank to fuel pump out, and try again. Oh yeah I did clean the carbs twice but just because it looks perfect doesn't mean everything is, hence buying a backup.
 
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your thinking of something different than I was thinking. It might not be an issue on the pre 2001 sleds with the digital indexed ignition (no more wasted sparks) the spark plug boot its self that screws onto the wire has an internal resistor thats 5k ohm. I thought that's what you were chasing after.

I did the same thing. Bought a set of ebay carbs to set up for going out to the big mountains from new england that I can just swap and not mess with jetting. They never showed up, but its not in the cards for this winter so I'm not worried about it.
 
Backwoods M Max said:
your thinking of something different than I was thinking. It might not be an issue on the pre 2001 sleds with the digital indexed ignition (no more wasted sparks) the spark plug boot its self that screws onto the wire has an internal resistor thats 5k ohm. I thought that's what you were chasing after.
Click to expand...

I did buy 3 of those boots and replace them. 2 were rusty. As for the ohms I just tested the different resistances in the Clymer manual which it called primary and secondary... Anyway the starter rope went to shite before I could find out if it starts (not right away, at least) but I've got a new one, and the carb set, arriving this week...

Update: everything works (with the 3 new aftermarket coils...), this was a serious lesson in replacing old parts preemptively...
 
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