otis700
Member
Hello everyone.
Below are pics of my 02 srx that lost a piston which I posted about a few weeks back. The sled has 11K miles and I have no interest in going through the lower end as makes no sense from a $$$ perspective.
A section of one of the rings is missing and made a mess from there. I had one mechanic look at it and he noticed the piston pin was missing and he's wondering whether that allowed the ring to then rotate and then take out cylinder. Thoughts?
I know I'm taking the gamble to replace piston, cylinder, and head and cross my fingers lower end is clean. I got a new Yamaha piston, rings, gaskets etc and used cylinder and head from Ty members and replacing the power valve. At first, it looked like the power valve hit the piston as its gauged but thinking the loose ring fragments made contact. Thoughts?
I figure if it runs great for a few trips, I;ll replace the other two pistons this summer.
Mark
Below are pics of my 02 srx that lost a piston which I posted about a few weeks back. The sled has 11K miles and I have no interest in going through the lower end as makes no sense from a $$$ perspective.
A section of one of the rings is missing and made a mess from there. I had one mechanic look at it and he noticed the piston pin was missing and he's wondering whether that allowed the ring to then rotate and then take out cylinder. Thoughts?
I know I'm taking the gamble to replace piston, cylinder, and head and cross my fingers lower end is clean. I got a new Yamaha piston, rings, gaskets etc and used cylinder and head from Ty members and replacing the power valve. At first, it looked like the power valve hit the piston as its gauged but thinking the loose ring fragments made contact. Thoughts?
I figure if it runs great for a few trips, I;ll replace the other two pistons this summer.
Mark
Attachments
Id say it would be a gamble. Most of the fragments probably went out the exhaust. I had a burn down similar to yours and there was a hole in the bottom of the case...are you a gamblin man?
shaggyzr2
Active member
I'd say clean out the bottom end just to be safe. I just had an SXR a couple weeks ago that blew a piston a cyl, it's a good thing that I decided to clean it out before I put it back together because there was a couple small pieces of aluminum from the piston laying in the bottom of the case.
Yea for the amount of money put into the jug piston and rings it would be silly not to inspect the bottom end. It doest take that long and you will feel better knowing you did
otis700
Member
I basically agree it makes sense to inspect the lower end but what does that entail as Im no major motor head? Are we talking about splitting the cases to inspect as this is $$$$ I assume : ) or can this be done more non-invasively?
Right now, I have $180 in piston/rings/gaskets, etc/ and $155 for used cylinder and head. : )
Thanks for the feedback so far.
Mark
Right now, I have $180 in piston/rings/gaskets, etc/ and $155 for used cylinder and head. : )
Thanks for the feedback so far.
Mark
WedigSRX
Member
yes to inspect and clean the bottom end you would have to split the cases. Removal of the engine completley.
When you turn over the engine while holding the connecting rod does it feel smooth while rotating. No spots where you feel drag ?
Sometimes fragments of the piston will attached to the lower rod bearing, not very often does this happen.
If it seems ok, use brake clean or carb clean and spray surfaces in the lower case, now use compressed air and blow it out. Repeat until the brake clean is clear before adding air. Re-oil the lower rod bearing and add oil to the crank bearings via holes in the case. Should be good to reasemble.
If you do pull the engine I recommend replacing the water pump seals also, pretty easy to do while the engine is out.
When you turn over the engine while holding the connecting rod does it feel smooth while rotating. No spots where you feel drag ?
Sometimes fragments of the piston will attached to the lower rod bearing, not very often does this happen.
If it seems ok, use brake clean or carb clean and spray surfaces in the lower case, now use compressed air and blow it out. Repeat until the brake clean is clear before adding air. Re-oil the lower rod bearing and add oil to the crank bearings via holes in the case. Should be good to reasemble.
If you do pull the engine I recommend replacing the water pump seals also, pretty easy to do while the engine is out.
marty f
New member
I feel like a idiot but I am trying to install the gold colored bracket under the coolant tank on my 2000 srx700,it looks like it sits above the chaincase and below the coolant tank!!!I cannot figure out where the two bolts go..someone take a picture of this location for me!!! can you take a picture of yours and post it
shaggyzr2
Active member
I can take a pic when I go home for lunch, will be about an hour.
YAMMIEGOD3:16
Active member
looks to me your head to the brunt of this damage. you can inspect lower end without splitting cases. i 100% would fix this. especially if this is a nice sled. 3:16 (yammie tony)
marty f
New member
cool,thanks
otis700
Member
I was running a racing fuel blend when this happened. DCS light never came on and DCS light is working and has worked well for years. I found the pilot jet plugged but not sure if this correlates to the engine damage as sled was running perfect when this happened. I ran it for 20 miles after this happened as I thought it was the infamous wire rub through issue. : (
Thanks for the feeback so far.
Thanks for the feeback so far.
marty f
New member
plugged pilot jet will cause a meltdown!!
YAMMIEGOD3:16
Active member
dcs won,t come on here. poor gas did not cause this. mechanical failure more like it. clogged pilot did not do this either. 3:16 (yammie tony)
otis700
Member
Guys, thanks again for all the feedback. I will be riding the srx next week if all goes well and will post back.
Good luck and if your unsure about something be sure to ask questions. These guys here know their stuff. Take your time and everything will work out for ya.
Ding
Darn Tootin'
Personally I would pull the engine and split the cases so you can inspect the crank properly. It really doesn't cost anything unless you need new parts. Which if that is the case (no pun) you don't want to waste time and money by not looking anyway. Those bearings need to be clean, and the crankcase clear of any debris. Check the seals too. Always good to know what caused it before simply rebuilding, or it can simply reoccur.
I know I would go thru the lower end. I rebuilt my engine after a burn down and I washed the cases out 3 times and I still found some metal particles in the bottom. I probably ended up washing it out 5 or 6 times total. I just didn't want it to come back and have it haunt me again. Good luck either way.
otis700
Member
Guys, in inspecting my carbs and reed valves, i noticed that the interior orange surface to the intake boots was peeling in some areas. Should the intake boots be replaced or is this peelign effect common? My thinking would be that any flakes would not harm the motor. Let me know your thoughts Thanks.
Mark
Mark
YAMMIEGOD3:16
Active member
mark if not cracked, should be alright. 3:16 (yammie tony)
otis700
Member
Hey guys.
Just wanted to let you know I replaced the one piston, head, and cylinder and sled ran flawlessly for about 200+ miles and then down the lower end went, pouring out antifreeze. Motor got super hot so its basically junk. At nearly 12K miles, cant complain, was an swesome sled. Will be buying something new finally. Now, probably time to part her out. : )
Just wanted to let you know I replaced the one piston, head, and cylinder and sled ran flawlessly for about 200+ miles and then down the lower end went, pouring out antifreeze. Motor got super hot so its basically junk. At nearly 12K miles, cant complain, was an swesome sled. Will be buying something new finally. Now, probably time to part her out. : )