super1c
Super Moderator
Hi guys!
The viper s is getting a little "long in the tooth" so to speak. I will turn 8000 trouble free miles on it this season and i would like to fresh'n up the top end. I can tell its time and its down on power compared to the less mile vipers. I dont want to do a total rebuild as im done putting money into these sleds as upgrades are in the works. That being said i need to get another season or two out of it yet and keep it as a great backup/ditchbanger/guest sled. Plus you can never have enough sleds LOL. My questions are what to replace? I will mic out the pistons and replace if needed. So if pistons are good which i suspect is it as easy as a new base gasket, rings, and new head gasket? I run the opticools so im not sure if i need a new one or if that one can be reused? If the pistons are out of spec then new pistons, rings, pins, bearing, circlips ect.... Did a search but never found a answer on what all's needed to do a top end? Ive been lucky and have never had to tear one down other then a headgasket and removing a jug for a broken exhaust stud. Any and all help welcome. Thanks chris
The viper s is getting a little "long in the tooth" so to speak. I will turn 8000 trouble free miles on it this season and i would like to fresh'n up the top end. I can tell its time and its down on power compared to the less mile vipers. I dont want to do a total rebuild as im done putting money into these sleds as upgrades are in the works. That being said i need to get another season or two out of it yet and keep it as a great backup/ditchbanger/guest sled. Plus you can never have enough sleds LOL. My questions are what to replace? I will mic out the pistons and replace if needed. So if pistons are good which i suspect is it as easy as a new base gasket, rings, and new head gasket? I run the opticools so im not sure if i need a new one or if that one can be reused? If the pistons are out of spec then new pistons, rings, pins, bearing, circlips ect.... Did a search but never found a answer on what all's needed to do a top end? Ive been lucky and have never had to tear one down other then a headgasket and removing a jug for a broken exhaust stud. Any and all help welcome. Thanks chris
02YamiSxViper
New member
It's pretty easy stuff. You can usually reuse the stock base gasket and head gasket if its in good condition. I can't speak for the opticool head gasket as I don't have one but the OEM ones are pretty rigid. When I did mine I bought new pistons, rings, cir clips, pins and bearings just to be sure. But if your pistons measure in spec I suppose you could just swap out your rings and put your jugs back on. It all depends on how meticulous you want to be.
pistons and rings for best seal, new base gaskets and head gaskets are over rated.
for second best seal, new rings. Break under hard repeated acceleration for best ring seal. The reason just rings are second best seal even if your pistons look good,is that the each ring, seals against three surfaces. The cylinder, the lower ring land on up stroke and the upper ring land on the downward stroke.
Base and head gaskets can be reused dozens of times on these sled as long as you use yamabond and copper gasket spray.
for second best seal, new rings. Break under hard repeated acceleration for best ring seal. The reason just rings are second best seal even if your pistons look good,is that the each ring, seals against three surfaces. The cylinder, the lower ring land on up stroke and the upper ring land on the downward stroke.
Base and head gaskets can be reused dozens of times on these sled as long as you use yamabond and copper gasket spray.
super1c
Super Moderator
Sounds good so far, any other thoughts. BTV do i have to use yamabond and copper spray or just one of these for the gaskets?
02YamiSxViper
New member
Just use copper gasket spray on the base and head gasket. Yamabond is for when you split the cases.
chris700readhead
Member
If you mic the pistons and they are under spec you could send them to swain tech and have them Teflon coated that will bring them back into spec will also free up some parasitic load on the engine since the coating is supper slick when the oil fuel mixture hits it.
