rnloutdoors02
New member
I have an 02 viper and over the weekend I had the problem with not running right cutting out on 2 cylinders and headlights, tach, and brake lights not working right. so I read and its either the wire under the engine rubbed through or the stator or voltage regulator and my question was I want to check the wire harness that runs under the hood. I seen some people posting that there were threads on how to do it? I searched and searched and didn't find any. If somebody could point me in the right direction that would be great. Also is it possible to check for rub through without taking out engine?
Thanks guys,
Thanks guys,
Yes, you can easily pull the harness without pulling any parts. Removing the exhaust pipe and carbs does make it a bit easier.
First take some pics so you can refer to them if you have any questions later.
Then unplug both ends and bend the aluminum wire holding tabs on the frame at the front right of the engine, the right side of the engine (near recoil), the front hoop, etc.
Tie a string to one end (helps pull it back in place) and carefully pull it out watching for any snags. Good lighting and careful attention make this an easy job.
You can test each wire independently checking for continuity with the same wire on the other end, and no continuity with all other wires. Both ends need to be disconnected of course.
Probably the most important test is the visual test though. Exposed wires can make contact with the frame or other parts and cause intermittent issues. Also be sure to check each plug end to make sure there isn't any sign of arcing or damage.
Take your time and check it out very carefully. The same is true for the wiring on the hood, just the speedo end is a bit more difficult to probe each wire for testing. I have seen them short out in many locations, but under the engine, and next to the front hoop where the harness gets bent every time the hood is opened are the 2 most common spots.
First take some pics so you can refer to them if you have any questions later.
Then unplug both ends and bend the aluminum wire holding tabs on the frame at the front right of the engine, the right side of the engine (near recoil), the front hoop, etc.
Tie a string to one end (helps pull it back in place) and carefully pull it out watching for any snags. Good lighting and careful attention make this an easy job.
You can test each wire independently checking for continuity with the same wire on the other end, and no continuity with all other wires. Both ends need to be disconnected of course.
Probably the most important test is the visual test though. Exposed wires can make contact with the frame or other parts and cause intermittent issues. Also be sure to check each plug end to make sure there isn't any sign of arcing or damage.
Take your time and check it out very carefully. The same is true for the wiring on the hood, just the speedo end is a bit more difficult to probe each wire for testing. I have seen them short out in many locations, but under the engine, and next to the front hoop where the harness gets bent every time the hood is opened are the 2 most common spots.
On the 2000 - 2002 SRXs if you have a short circuit in the wiring you can remove the White load relay above your left foot and the engine will run properly to get you home, without headlights ect.
I suspect the Viper has a similar load relay but I don't have a Viper manual to know the colour ect.
I suspect the Viper has a similar load relay but I don't have a Viper manual to know the colour ect.
Also white on a Viper, above left footwell the one on the inside.
rnloutdoors02
New member
Ok guys, I guess I need your help il start from the beginning I was trail riding when i noticed that my head light was dull as all. Then from there on my tach would reset everytime i hit the brakes along with the headlights dim. Also when i applied the brake my taillight would almost shut off then comeback on with the brakelight but it was dull also. Then it would also cut cylinders somtime it would only let me go 40 other times no problem. Then if i hold the brake for a long time it the engine just almost sounds like its going to die. Also when i switch from hi beam to low beam my tac resets the lights dull and it sounds like my sled almost shuts off and turns back on like i lost all power for a second. So when i got home i checked all wires for shorts didnt find any. Tried putting new voltage regulator in now my taillight seems a little better and everything else is the same besides when I switch low to hi or hi to low on the headlights it doesnt sound like it looses all power and dies for a second. I dont know where to go next is it a stator I just dont know?
Thanks
Thanks
pull the harness out from under the engine, its not something you can just look at.
rnloutdoors02
New member
I had it out and completely and tested it with a multimeter
Sent from my SCH-R530U using Tapatalk
Sent from my SCH-R530U using Tapatalk
so if you unplug the white relay does it run perfect?
rnloutdoors02
New member
Yes as soon as I plug it back the engine starts acting up. So by that I'm going to take a guess that I missed a short in tnt wiring?
Sent from my SCH-R530U using Tapatalk
Sent from my SCH-R530U using Tapatalk
That relay should be the main load control relay which delivers power to the headlight, taillight, meter, and other components not essential to run the engine. Either the relay has gone bad, or you have a short in one of these circuits. The headlight also employs a dimmer relay (the black one) to control high or low beams.
I recommend looking at the wiring schematic (found in Owners or Service Manuals) and just tracing the wires. You can isolate each one independently to see which one causes the issue and then you only have to investigate that wire. Of course the front wiring harness is the most likely culprit.
I recommend looking at the wiring schematic (found in Owners or Service Manuals) and just tracing the wires. You can isolate each one independently to see which one causes the issue and then you only have to investigate that wire. Of course the front wiring harness is the most likely culprit.
Last edited:
bingo...... shorted harness somewhere. first place:, remove harness from under engine and remove all of the tape look at each individual wire, one will be worn thru and touching another one,and a continuity meter will tell you its good if the wire strands are still connected. but with the wires touching it grounds out the componet its connected to.
second place:, over at the cdi box, look at all the wires that go to the box, unbolt the box and look at them carefully
third place:, under the handlebar pad
9826matt
New member
any service manuals ?