If I gear my MM 700 from 21/40 to 20/40, how will I have to change the clutching in order to get the most of the re-gearing? Is it a given that it will give me a better low end and track horsepower? I've heard of some ski-doo's that got better track hp when geared up a tooth on the upper sprocket. I have heelclickers and a bunch of springs and helixes, so part availability should not be a problem. Any suggestions?
What I need is higher track speed in deep snow. I ride at 0-1000 ft.
What I need is higher track speed in deep snow. I ride at 0-1000 ft.
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A couple of bucks
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What all is in it now?
21/40. Single pipe. Jetted and has hauck think headgasket and reedstopper notch mod. Stock track. MPI transfer enhancement kit.
Primary: Heelclickers with HC red spring. 5,2grams in heel. 5 grams in tip
Sec: Sometimes 44/38, sometimes 50/38 dalton, Hauck red spring @70 deg.
Primary: Heelclickers with HC red spring. 5,2grams in heel. 5 grams in tip
Sec: Sometimes 44/38, sometimes 50/38 dalton, Hauck red spring @70 deg.
A couple of bucks
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For me....I'd put the 20 in and see what she produces.
A couple of bucks
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Ya have a BRAND NEW 68L ready to go as well. Or at least one that's not too old and shock-loaded?
I can't understand it. I ran the 20 tooth with the same chain I have with the 21 tooth top gear. According to the gearing table, that's not even possible. Ya I should get a new chain too. But first I have to see if gearing down is worth it at all.
A couple of bucks
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That 70Ler probably had plenty of slack in it that the tensioner had to take up....right. A new chain that hasn't been shock loaded is a hoeeeeeeee bunch cheaper than a destroyed chain case.
A couple of bucks
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The more bend there is at the tensioner = power lost.