Picked up a nice phazer II to build for my kid to race on the oval this year. I am going to tear down the topend and go thru it. Gonna try and document the process on it here, nothing too difficult or elaborate. I have been gathering parts for the build all summer and am just about ready to dig in. Heres what it looks like from the start( I did install a black cut down windshield already...lol)
She will be in the same class as all the 440 srx and the other muscle sleds, lets see if we can put a little phazer up front! If you click on the pics they get bigger.
Heres the to do list for it:
Engine mods:
ported cylinders
machined cylinders
windowed pistons
lightweight wristpins
vmax 600 38mm carbs
some reed stop work
single performance pipe,have a dg now but would like to use a aaen quiet can pipe.
custom clutching,maybe going to use 8ab weights.
chassis mods:
lower front and rear suspension
install newer phazer 14 inch wide track, with 96 picks in it.
plastic skis from a viper on it
handlebar hook
custom gearing in the chaincase for 3/8 oval
shaved down hyfax
lighten up various parts,seat,misc chassis componets with alum instead of steel if possible.
She will be in the same class as all the 440 srx and the other muscle sleds, lets see if we can put a little phazer up front! If you click on the pics they get bigger.
Heres the to do list for it:
Engine mods:
ported cylinders
machined cylinders
windowed pistons
lightweight wristpins
vmax 600 38mm carbs
some reed stop work
single performance pipe,have a dg now but would like to use a aaen quiet can pipe.
custom clutching,maybe going to use 8ab weights.
chassis mods:
lower front and rear suspension
install newer phazer 14 inch wide track, with 96 picks in it.
plastic skis from a viper on it
handlebar hook
custom gearing in the chaincase for 3/8 oval
shaved down hyfax
lighten up various parts,seat,misc chassis componets with alum instead of steel if possible.
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If anyone sees a old bender cold air kit for one of these sleds let me know, would like to add that to it. I also remember there being a little scoop that went onto the clutch cover and it directed the hot air from the fan out the hood vent.
anyone sees these items for sale let me know, thanx
anyone sees these items for sale let me know, thanx
Nice little project and you get your daughter involved... very cool.
super1c
Super Moderator
Awesome don! Look forward to the build and pic's of her racing it!
Thats awesome I have been want to do something like that with a exciter.
staggs65
Moderator
That sure is one clean phazer
It is pretty clean and in good shape for having 6900 miles on it. I figure its due to go thru the topend and freshen it up.
I am glad the kid likes to ride sleds and bikes, its going to be alot more enjoyable to see a little girl go out there and whip up on the guys....( we will see how good of a tuner I am....lol)
BTW- staggs you mise well send down your phazer topend and I will do it at the same time!
I am glad the kid likes to ride sleds and bikes, its going to be alot more enjoyable to see a little girl go out there and whip up on the guys....( we will see how good of a tuner I am....lol)
BTW- staggs you mise well send down your phazer topend and I will do it at the same time!
staggs65
Moderator
Yeah I need to do that. I'm in New York right now and my stuff is still in Maine. I'm looking to bring some of the sleds down in the next few weeks
Yamaha Nutz
New member
getting mine ready for Eagle river except no pipe or and roundslide carbs as flats are not allowed I had a RPC pipe and 38mm flats on mine 
Very nice!!!
There is a few of the factory pipes around for these, what it is a factory pipe thats taken apart and a tube welded inside then reassemble/welded up, they made 12hp more then stock and was done by the yamaha R/D shop for "select" racers...lol
hey, by chance you wouldnt want to sell those 38mm vmax carbs would you with the choke and throttle cables?
hey, by chance you wouldnt want to sell those 38mm vmax carbs would you with the choke and throttle cables?
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Yamaha Nutz
New member
sorry keeping the carbs to when I can go back to them ......I know all about the factory pipe, a buddy has one on his sled ........was told by a good source that there where only 7 built ....I know the guy that built them ......but to have one built good luck tried for 2 years to get him to build one ..............basically they cut off the can section coned out the pipe and silenced it about equal to the RPC pipe I have lots of tricks for these motors and you can easily get them up to the 90 hp mark ...............
one tip is if running the flats go to K&N filters even a gutted air box with cold air intake hurts the motor they still want more air flow ...the sled in the picture is a 92 phazer but I have gone back to the older drive ypz clutches and older jack shaft and drivers to run the triple wide chain and gears to have more gearing options .....I also run the factory R&D tunable weights in mine.... srx/viper reed cages are also a big help
one tip is if running the flats go to K&N filters even a gutted air box with cold air intake hurts the motor they still want more air flow ...the sled in the picture is a 92 phazer but I have gone back to the older drive ypz clutches and older jack shaft and drivers to run the triple wide chain and gears to have more gearing options .....I also run the factory R&D tunable weights in mine.... srx/viper reed cages are also a big help
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tippmannator
New member
I love the builds that involve the next generation!!!
I never realized or payed much attention to how low the gearing is in these. they have 8 tooth drivers so its even lower and more power robbing. Stock is 17/29 = 1.705 but with the 8 tooth drivers its really 1.92.
17/29=1.92 x1.13 for the drivers =1.92
17/33=1.94 x1.13=2.19
knowing how I dont like to bend the chain so tight on a small sprocket(17 tooth),am going to look at getting into a 19/37 set up, but will have to see what length chain that will require and how it fits the chaincase, want not much bend at all if poosible for less parasetic drag.
maybe 9 tooth drivers will fit ,have to check tunnel clearance.
17/29=1.92 x1.13 for the drivers =1.92
17/33=1.94 x1.13=2.19
knowing how I dont like to bend the chain so tight on a small sprocket(17 tooth),am going to look at getting into a 19/37 set up, but will have to see what length chain that will require and how it fits the chaincase, want not much bend at all if poosible for less parasetic drag.
maybe 9 tooth drivers will fit ,have to check tunnel clearance.
Yamaha Nutz
New member
9 tooth drivers will take away all stud clearance in the front ...yes the stock gearing sucks and is only good for about 85 mph when figured at 1:1 I have seen 95 on my trail rider ....a 37 bottom fits .....I do not remember what chain length is for the top gear you want to run.................
ok on the 9 tooth drivers,but since I have not yet rolled it on its side to actually measure what kind of clearance does it have? I was only planning on a .750" cut lug track and maybe 1 inch studs, will that clear? I will check later but was curious if you knew off the top of your head.
I absolutely hate 8 tooth drivers and the power they absorb from bending the track too tight in the radius, 9 tooths and a free rolling gear set up would go along ways to free up the resistance from what I see just so far.
thanx for the info nutz, been a long time since I worked on a hopped up phazer so its kinda fun. I am gonna dig into it pretty soon just kinda gettin a plan to go on.
I absolutely hate 8 tooth drivers and the power they absorb from bending the track too tight in the radius, 9 tooths and a free rolling gear set up would go along ways to free up the resistance from what I see just so far.
thanx for the info nutz, been a long time since I worked on a hopped up phazer so its kinda fun. I am gonna dig into it pretty soon just kinda gettin a plan to go on.
Yamaha Nutz
New member
with 8 tooth drivers 1.060 t nut studs is all that will clear even then they will tag once in a while ....I have had to weld my bulk head up a few times already for our local snow ovals I run a 820 track with the 1.060 studs ......for the ice I have a .510 stock yokohama track I run with .750 studs ........if you roll the case you should have enough to clear 9 tooth drivers ......I really do not have a problem with the 8 tooth drivers
Srxspec
Your #1 performance shop!
I happen to know where one of the Yamaha R&D pipes are at! 
i happen to know where one of the yamaha r&d pipes are at!
lol!!
Been tinkering with the phazer in between jobs and have gotten it torn down and a rough plan made as to how to mod the engine. I am going to pretty much post all the mods as this is an old engine now theres no real secrets out there...also I happen to be building one of these for a member here so he will be able to see his engine being modded at the same time as I am doing them both exactly the same except for the final compression ratio.
Here you can see the newer phazer has a 3 pc steel head gasket, so making the head clearance right will be that much easier. You can simply peel the layers of gasket to help correct the clearance. The phazer engine has a big .068" squish clearance stock. The deck clearance in the stock engine was .010". I also took note that the piston is not timed very well with the ports on the cylinder stock, the piston sticks up into not only the exhaust port but the transfer ports as well, meaning at bottom dead center the piston is inhibiting flow from the transfers and the return pulse from the pipe runs into the edge of the piston crown on its return, so theres easy power to gain by correcting that.
Since it has that problem youd need to add base gaskets or raise the cylinder up to the correct spec. Cometic will make you base gaskets in differnt thickness, or you can stack the stock ones which are .010" thick. I will determine how much I raise it by putting the degree wheel on it and see what the stock port timing is on the transfer ports. I dont want to raise them too much as I want to keep this a 7500-7800rpm engine via the pipe I have for it. I dont worry about the exhaust port as much, although, I will check it but I will be porting that and modifying the width and heigth of it. More on degree wheel later.
One thing to remember when you raise a cylinder, the amount you raise it to correct this problem you also ADD that much more to the deck clearance, so you will need to address that problem. To do so, I will mill material off the tops of the cylinders.
Here you can see the newer phazer has a 3 pc steel head gasket, so making the head clearance right will be that much easier. You can simply peel the layers of gasket to help correct the clearance. The phazer engine has a big .068" squish clearance stock. The deck clearance in the stock engine was .010". I also took note that the piston is not timed very well with the ports on the cylinder stock, the piston sticks up into not only the exhaust port but the transfer ports as well, meaning at bottom dead center the piston is inhibiting flow from the transfers and the return pulse from the pipe runs into the edge of the piston crown on its return, so theres easy power to gain by correcting that.
Since it has that problem youd need to add base gaskets or raise the cylinder up to the correct spec. Cometic will make you base gaskets in differnt thickness, or you can stack the stock ones which are .010" thick. I will determine how much I raise it by putting the degree wheel on it and see what the stock port timing is on the transfer ports. I dont want to raise them too much as I want to keep this a 7500-7800rpm engine via the pipe I have for it. I dont worry about the exhaust port as much, although, I will check it but I will be porting that and modifying the width and heigth of it. More on degree wheel later.
One thing to remember when you raise a cylinder, the amount you raise it to correct this problem you also ADD that much more to the deck clearance, so you will need to address that problem. To do so, I will mill material off the tops of the cylinders.
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