fourbarrel
VIP Lifetime Member
I read a post some years back on how to change the stock wires on factory coils to an upgraded racing type wire for better spark.I don't have a bad coil or wire I'm just curious what the process is to change the stock wire is.If I remember right there was some kind of sealant that had to be dug out or something along those lines.If the whole process wasn't too difficult I might actually try it,there's no shortage of aftermarket wires to try,I just don't know if it's worth the hassle to do this for a trail sled.Better spark is always a good thing.
devinzz1
Active member
fourbarrel
VIP Lifetime Member
So the epoxy is all that holds the wire onto the pin?Seems like the more popular screw on type would have been a better choice for Yamaha.
devinzz1
Active member
just the epoxy yea
A couple of bucks
VIP Member
I have also used rubber cement or Liquid Electrical Tape for adhesive/sealant.
Last edited:
snomofo
VIP Lifetime Member
I read a post some years back on how to change the stock wires on factory coils to an upgraded racing type wire for better spark.I don't have a bad coil or wire I'm just curious what the process is to change the stock wire is.If I remember right there was some kind of sealant that had to be dug out or something along those lines.If the whole process wasn't too difficult I might actually try it,there's no shortage of aftermarket wires to try,I just don't know if it's worth the hassle to do this for a trail sled.Better spark is always a good thing.
I would caution against using a "race" wire that reduces/eliminates impedence. If the sled's electronics isn't shielded against the increased EM noise you could end up chasing an intermittent.
I have no experience with this on a sled but was bitten once on a fuel injected car - assuming the expensive "race" plug wires weren't an issue - they were correct for the application according to the supplier.
I chased an intermittent miss under heavy load cold including yanking a cyliner head to check for IVDs. As a last resort I swapped wires - problem gone. I put them back on and the symptom returned. Curious to see what happens, I watched output from the hall-effects pick up (shielded btw) and found a lot of noise with the big dollar wires and none with OEM.
Seems to me even in a race application the OEM performs well.
Just food for thought.