I read a post some years back on how to change the stock wires on factory coils to an upgraded racing type wire for better spark.I don't have a bad coil or wire I'm just curious what the process is to change the stock wire is.If I remember right there was some kind of sealant that had to be dug out or something along those lines.If the whole process wasn't too difficult I might actually try it,there's no shortage of aftermarket wires to try,I just don't know if it's worth the hassle to do this for a trail sled.Better spark is always a good thing.
devinzz1
Active member
So the epoxy is all that holds the wire onto the pin?Seems like the more popular screw on type would have been a better choice for Yamaha.
devinzz1
Active member
just the epoxy yea
A couple of bucks
VIP Member
I have also used rubber cement or Liquid Electrical Tape for adhesive/sealant.
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I read a post some years back on how to change the stock wires on factory coils to an upgraded racing type wire for better spark.I don't have a bad coil or wire I'm just curious what the process is to change the stock wire is.If I remember right there was some kind of sealant that had to be dug out or something along those lines.If the whole process wasn't too difficult I might actually try it,there's no shortage of aftermarket wires to try,I just don't know if it's worth the hassle to do this for a trail sled.Better spark is always a good thing.
I would caution against using a "race" wire that reduces/eliminates impedence. If the sled's electronics isn't shielded against the increased EM noise you could end up chasing an intermittent.
I have no experience with this on a sled but was bitten once on a fuel injected car - assuming the expensive "race" plug wires weren't an issue - they were correct for the application according to the supplier.
I chased an intermittent miss under heavy load cold including yanking a cyliner head to check for IVDs. As a last resort I swapped wires - problem gone. I put them back on and the symptom returned. Curious to see what happens, I watched output from the hall-effects pick up (shielded btw) and found a lot of noise with the big dollar wires and none with OEM.
Seems to me even in a race application the OEM performs well.
Just food for thought.