Any one know a SE MI yamaha mechanic around Port Huron or Anchor Bay who is familiar with the water pump leak issue as described here? Need someone to perform steps as described in post on this site to resolve issue. Would rather pay someone who has done so successfully before than to try myself.
Thanks gilly
Thanks gilly
Parts list
Can anyone give me a list of all the seals, etc I need to order for this job? Also, do you know a good online site to get the parts from as our local yamaha dealer doesn't sell sleds. Looks like I will have to have my local guy help me out again but he doesn't know yamaha sleds.
Thanks for any help gilly
Can anyone give me a list of all the seals, etc I need to order for this job? Also, do you know a good online site to get the parts from as our local yamaha dealer doesn't sell sleds. Looks like I will have to have my local guy help me out again but he doesn't know yamaha sleds.
Thanks for any help gilly
staggs65
Moderator
Gilly, if you can wait a day I can help you out with the part numbers and any questions on the procedure. Don't have time left tonight to look up the numbers. Send me a reminder pm if you don't hear anything from me.
I see that Staggs has done this before. I'd be willing to help you out if you can get the sled to my house and we can use Staggs to walk us through it. I'll read up on this repair.
...and you'd be better off ordering what's needed from a sponsor/dealer from TY instead of using Macomb Cycle or other eastside dealer. They're pretty much useless.
That would be awesome. I put together a word file from all the posts on here. Let me try to send it to you. Space between lines indicates another post and not necessarily from same thread.
Had the same problem with my 02MM 700 last year... In the fall before riding season, did a water pump overhaul too. Found the mechanical seal was not the problem, but rather the splines on the shaft where the impellor fits were worn and loose and thus leaking fluid past...
Replaced the shaft and the impellor but you could try removing impellor from shaft (very carefully not to scratch mechanical seal) clean and dry splines on shaft and impellor, then use a liberal dose of Locktite on the splines of impellor and shaft...(also use Locktite on threads of mounting bolt)... reassemble with NEW sealing washer (the washer that goes under the impellor mounting bolt) and then tighten down to spec... Let Locktight set up 24 hours before refilling with antifreeze....
Had I know then what I know now, I would have tried this first... The shaft was over 100 bucks and the impellor was about 30 bucks...
Don't use permanent Locktite but something medium strength that can function in a wet environment (sealant type)....
680 is the locktite you use. It is good for up to .015" gap. Do not use thread locker.
Took it apart today. Was a snap removing the impeller after the hood, pipe, exhaust manifold, right side motor mount, and water pump housing are removed. Was a bit surprised to see the mechanical seal is secured into the backside of the impeller. Not sure though where I expected it to be.
that's only half the mechanical seal... the other half is jammed and sealed into the block... the two ceramic mating surfaces (machined) ride on each other and seal the coolant from entering and getting at the shaft...
was your impellor loose on the shaft splines? tj
Update...
Just got back from the dealer 15 miles away (I don't do business with the one 3 miles away). This is the place I ordered the seal from. I like this place. One of the mechanics came out to the parts counter and explained the fix. He said he has fixed a bunch with a new washer for the impeller bolt and some loctite in a couple of strategic areas.
Followed his advice (they had the washer in stock, and were happy to cancel the order for the seal) and put the impeller on as instructed. Guy said to leave it 24 hours before putting any coolant in it.
not sure why he wouldn't be specific in his post where he was told to put the locktite????? but, this thread/links contains the answer to your question...
in some cases (when mechanical seal is not damaged), coolant can leak past the shaft/impellor washer (washer under the bolt) and along the splines of the shaft into the inside (dry side) of the mechanical seal... this then finds it's way further into the pump housing where it leaks out the weep hole...
the cause of this?
SLINES WEAR SLIGHTLY AND CREATE A SLIGHT WOBBLE OF THE IMPELLOR ON THE SHAFT... tj
glad it worked for you abumpa, hay 700mm check for burrs on impeller and end of shaft were rubber coated washer seals, may be there from wear,i had burr on shaft,and check that seals are seated square and flat with new seal and washer in place how much wooble is there in impeller should not be allot very little to none, and make sure rubber is not loose on washer
Sorry I was not trying to hide anything.
The sealer goes on the shaft splines, both sides of the new washer, and the thread of the impeller bolt.
Wait 24 hours before putting coolant in. I waited almost 48 hours before reinstalling the pump housing. Wanted to be sure it dried good.
I used blue loctite.
I usually put about 10 lbs of air to the system....you'll find it right away. I do it by shutting off the carb heaters, pulling the tube from the coolant rail over by the shut off valve and hook the air up to it. It's quick and easy and 10-15lbs should do it.
You can put your finger on the weep hole to check for coolant. You should always replace the rubber seal on the impeller bolt which needs to be torqued to spec. When the spline is worn on the shaft and inside the impeller the impeller actually wobles and coolant leaks past and goes out the weep hole. Locktite 680 fills the gap. Even new I use locktite.
Follow MM 700 instructions to the "T" if you do not want it to leak again,it's a tricky seal and shouldnt be rushed below-
No need to pull the motor.
Pull the pipe
pull the y pipe
remove the drain bolt on the top right side of water pump cover.
Remove engine mount
Remove the coolant lines from the water pump cover housing.
Remove all bolts from water pump cover.
Remove impellar bolt, and washer
remove impellar
Clean bolt/shaft/impellar threads
ReInstall using removable loctite good foor water application and a new water pump bolt washer/new seal on the back side of impellar. Use the loctite on the impellar thread/bolt threads/bolt washer. Let sit for 24-48 hrs before adding coolant.
Be sure to bleed all air out of the system by using the screw on the rear cooler and the one on the housing on the cyclinder head. By opening the screw on the rear cooler and raising the rear of the sled, and adding coolant to push out any air in the system, then CLose screw, raise front of sled, open the bolt on the cyclinder head(on top ot the thermostat housing) and add coolant till it pours out of the air bleeder.
Start sled check for leaks, feel all coolers to make sure they are getting warm.
I have replaced the acutal mechanical seal 3 times with the motor in the sled, and it still leaked, there is a thread on here that stats what I wrote above about how to fix the water pump weap hole leak. I just did waht is stated above last week and fixed the problem.
Just a note, had a seal go on my 02 700 MM. It is a PIA to remove without pulling the engine but a couple of tips if you want to try. Follow MM700s instructions, just adding a few tips. To remove the water pump bolt on the bottom, unbolt the airbox under the console, lift the engine about 3/4" with a pry bar(after motor mounts on the front are off) and use a 1/4 flex knuckle with a 10mm to get that invisible sucker off.The water pump cover comes off, and I found I could leave the main discharge line on as it just folded back out of the way(no need to fight putting it back on) On the inner seal, roll the metal lip over slightly on the top with a screwdriver tapping with a small hammer. I then took an awl and carefully drove it through the seal metal, then place a screwdriver under the awl and pryed the seal out. Careful not to damage the shaft with the awl or the housing edges with the screwdriver. To drive the seal back on I used a 1" socket and a small hammer to tap it in, a metric might work better. I did notice the seal was not seating flush on all edges and had to shift my socket to get all edges down even. An uneven seat might cause alot of leakage problems. To put the pump cover back on I had to pry the engine up slightly as it sages with the mount off and that helped get the bolts back in with the coolant line still attached. Torque specs, pump bolts 115 in/lbs, impeller 89 in/lbs, engine mounts 24ft/lbs in my clymer manual. Hope that helps...
Had the same problem with my 02MM 700 last year... In the fall before riding season, did a water pump overhaul too. Found the mechanical seal was not the problem, but rather the splines on the shaft where the impellor fits were worn and loose and thus leaking fluid past...
Replaced the shaft and the impellor but you could try removing impellor from shaft (very carefully not to scratch mechanical seal) clean and dry splines on shaft and impellor, then use a liberal dose of Locktite on the splines of impellor and shaft...(also use Locktite on threads of mounting bolt)... reassemble with NEW sealing washer (the washer that goes under the impellor mounting bolt) and then tighten down to spec... Let Locktight set up 24 hours before refilling with antifreeze....
Had I know then what I know now, I would have tried this first... The shaft was over 100 bucks and the impellor was about 30 bucks...
Don't use permanent Locktite but something medium strength that can function in a wet environment (sealant type)....
680 is the locktite you use. It is good for up to .015" gap. Do not use thread locker.
Took it apart today. Was a snap removing the impeller after the hood, pipe, exhaust manifold, right side motor mount, and water pump housing are removed. Was a bit surprised to see the mechanical seal is secured into the backside of the impeller. Not sure though where I expected it to be.
that's only half the mechanical seal... the other half is jammed and sealed into the block... the two ceramic mating surfaces (machined) ride on each other and seal the coolant from entering and getting at the shaft...
was your impellor loose on the shaft splines? tj
Update...
Just got back from the dealer 15 miles away (I don't do business with the one 3 miles away). This is the place I ordered the seal from. I like this place. One of the mechanics came out to the parts counter and explained the fix. He said he has fixed a bunch with a new washer for the impeller bolt and some loctite in a couple of strategic areas.
Followed his advice (they had the washer in stock, and were happy to cancel the order for the seal) and put the impeller on as instructed. Guy said to leave it 24 hours before putting any coolant in it.
not sure why he wouldn't be specific in his post where he was told to put the locktite????? but, this thread/links contains the answer to your question...
in some cases (when mechanical seal is not damaged), coolant can leak past the shaft/impellor washer (washer under the bolt) and along the splines of the shaft into the inside (dry side) of the mechanical seal... this then finds it's way further into the pump housing where it leaks out the weep hole...
the cause of this?
SLINES WEAR SLIGHTLY AND CREATE A SLIGHT WOBBLE OF THE IMPELLOR ON THE SHAFT... tj
glad it worked for you abumpa, hay 700mm check for burrs on impeller and end of shaft were rubber coated washer seals, may be there from wear,i had burr on shaft,and check that seals are seated square and flat with new seal and washer in place how much wooble is there in impeller should not be allot very little to none, and make sure rubber is not loose on washer
Sorry I was not trying to hide anything.
The sealer goes on the shaft splines, both sides of the new washer, and the thread of the impeller bolt.
Wait 24 hours before putting coolant in. I waited almost 48 hours before reinstalling the pump housing. Wanted to be sure it dried good.
I used blue loctite.
I usually put about 10 lbs of air to the system....you'll find it right away. I do it by shutting off the carb heaters, pulling the tube from the coolant rail over by the shut off valve and hook the air up to it. It's quick and easy and 10-15lbs should do it.
You can put your finger on the weep hole to check for coolant. You should always replace the rubber seal on the impeller bolt which needs to be torqued to spec. When the spline is worn on the shaft and inside the impeller the impeller actually wobles and coolant leaks past and goes out the weep hole. Locktite 680 fills the gap. Even new I use locktite.
Follow MM 700 instructions to the "T" if you do not want it to leak again,it's a tricky seal and shouldnt be rushed below-
No need to pull the motor.
Pull the pipe
pull the y pipe
remove the drain bolt on the top right side of water pump cover.
Remove engine mount
Remove the coolant lines from the water pump cover housing.
Remove all bolts from water pump cover.
Remove impellar bolt, and washer
remove impellar
Clean bolt/shaft/impellar threads
ReInstall using removable loctite good foor water application and a new water pump bolt washer/new seal on the back side of impellar. Use the loctite on the impellar thread/bolt threads/bolt washer. Let sit for 24-48 hrs before adding coolant.
Be sure to bleed all air out of the system by using the screw on the rear cooler and the one on the housing on the cyclinder head. By opening the screw on the rear cooler and raising the rear of the sled, and adding coolant to push out any air in the system, then CLose screw, raise front of sled, open the bolt on the cyclinder head(on top ot the thermostat housing) and add coolant till it pours out of the air bleeder.
Start sled check for leaks, feel all coolers to make sure they are getting warm.
I have replaced the acutal mechanical seal 3 times with the motor in the sled, and it still leaked, there is a thread on here that stats what I wrote above about how to fix the water pump weap hole leak. I just did waht is stated above last week and fixed the problem.
Just a note, had a seal go on my 02 700 MM. It is a PIA to remove without pulling the engine but a couple of tips if you want to try. Follow MM700s instructions, just adding a few tips. To remove the water pump bolt on the bottom, unbolt the airbox under the console, lift the engine about 3/4" with a pry bar(after motor mounts on the front are off) and use a 1/4 flex knuckle with a 10mm to get that invisible sucker off.The water pump cover comes off, and I found I could leave the main discharge line on as it just folded back out of the way(no need to fight putting it back on) On the inner seal, roll the metal lip over slightly on the top with a screwdriver tapping with a small hammer. I then took an awl and carefully drove it through the seal metal, then place a screwdriver under the awl and pryed the seal out. Careful not to damage the shaft with the awl or the housing edges with the screwdriver. To drive the seal back on I used a 1" socket and a small hammer to tap it in, a metric might work better. I did notice the seal was not seating flush on all edges and had to shift my socket to get all edges down even. An uneven seat might cause alot of leakage problems. To put the pump cover back on I had to pry the engine up slightly as it sages with the mount off and that helped get the bolts back in with the coolant line still attached. Torque specs, pump bolts 115 in/lbs, impeller 89 in/lbs, engine mounts 24ft/lbs in my clymer manual. Hope that helps...