Hey everyone. I have a 2001 Yamaha SX700R triple that I need advice on. My sled has 4800 miles on it and about 250 miles since a rebuild. (Was rebuilt when I bought it).
Was having 2 issues with it. First it wouldn't idle right, had to keep messing with the choke and throttle to keep it running or it'd die. After cleaning the carbs and jets this problem is fixed, idles good now.
Second issue is revving. I can rev it past 3k (belt kicks in at like 4200 and will move sled) and then I idle it back down under 3k and it won't idle past 3k again. If I mess with the choke it'll let me rev past 3k again and just continue to do the 3k rev limit thing. Here is a video if it happening on youtube.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rfIxvl3B0fo&list=UUGGwLcHkeBS6d3c8kO9BaXg
Not sure what else to do with it.. Thinking it has to be fuel related or electrical. Any input is greatly appreciated! Just want to see what I can find before I go spend hundreds at a shop..
Thanks!
Was having 2 issues with it. First it wouldn't idle right, had to keep messing with the choke and throttle to keep it running or it'd die. After cleaning the carbs and jets this problem is fixed, idles good now.
Second issue is revving. I can rev it past 3k (belt kicks in at like 4200 and will move sled) and then I idle it back down under 3k and it won't idle past 3k again. If I mess with the choke it'll let me rev past 3k again and just continue to do the 3k rev limit thing. Here is a video if it happening on youtube.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rfIxvl3B0fo&list=UUGGwLcHkeBS6d3c8kO9BaXg
Not sure what else to do with it.. Thinking it has to be fuel related or electrical. Any input is greatly appreciated! Just want to see what I can find before I go spend hundreds at a shop..
Thanks!
shaggyzr2
Active member
Did you try bypassing the TORS switch on the carbs?
roudyroy1
Active member
That's 100%tors, loosen your throttle cable and try again.
I'm kind of a noob with sleds and small engines in general. What exactly is the tors? And how will just loosening the cable prevent that from happening? And to bypass do I just unhook the cables and plug them into each other on each side? Is this just to test or can it be left this way?
dsc577
VIP Member
bypassing tors is just for testing,you need a 1/8 gap at the throttle lever for the lever can rock back before pulling the cable,loosen the throttle cable where its threaded into the carbs
roudyroy1
Active member
Yeah, back off the adjustment at the carb block. To tight of a cable trips the switches in the wrong sequence tripping tors. You can override it by plugging the wires into each other but advise not to ride like this. A dirty switch can cause it to go off as well.
Basically what they are saying is when you put your carbs back on and adjusted the throttle cable you did not leave enough free play in it. There should be slack in the cable by the carbs. When the cable is to tight it activates the tors. I did the same thing the 1st time I cleaned my carbs too. Trust me there is plenty of information about the tors on here if you use the search.
here is something I found by yamadad4. Hope it helps.
tors is a safety feature incorporated into the cdi units that basically retardes the engine so it cant rev past 3000 rpm. theory being that the clutches wont engage in that rpm range so your sled wont go for a "ghost ride". there are 2 switches involved with the system. one is at the carb, carbs, or carb rack. the other is located at the throttle perch, inside, activated by the flipper lever for the throttle. take a look and you will notice the pin holding the lever in place actually sits in an elongated hole. most common cause of the tors to activate is an issue with the throttle cable itself. tors will not activate until the engine has the chance to return to idle. at that point, if the switches detect any abnormality, tors will activate. first thing to be concerned with is that the idle is set at the proper rpms for your sled. next, confirm the fact that there is at least 2-3mm of freeplay in the flipper prior to pulling the carbs open. this measurement is taken between the flipper and the perch. hood up, watch the carbs, slowly apply the throttle, when the carbs start to open, measure the distance from the lever to the perch. any less than 2mm and the system will activate. you can test your tors system simply by pushing back on the pivot point with the sled running and applying throttle. occasionally a bad switch may be to blame for activation. the switch on the carbs has a pair of wires, one black, the other black w/ yellow stripe. connect you tester to these leads and pull the throttle. throttle on-no continuity. for the perch switch, unplug the white connector under the bar cover, same black-black/yellow, activate throttle and you should have continuity. to temporarily by-pass the tors system for troubleshooting purposesm simply unplug the bullet connectors at the carbs and plug them back into themselves. meaning the pair from the carbs into each other and the pair the carbs would have been connected to into each other. the carbs dont care, this was just to avoid confusion. its the wires leading TO the carbs that matters. hope this clears the air on TORS.
here is something I found by yamadad4. Hope it helps.
tors is a safety feature incorporated into the cdi units that basically retardes the engine so it cant rev past 3000 rpm. theory being that the clutches wont engage in that rpm range so your sled wont go for a "ghost ride". there are 2 switches involved with the system. one is at the carb, carbs, or carb rack. the other is located at the throttle perch, inside, activated by the flipper lever for the throttle. take a look and you will notice the pin holding the lever in place actually sits in an elongated hole. most common cause of the tors to activate is an issue with the throttle cable itself. tors will not activate until the engine has the chance to return to idle. at that point, if the switches detect any abnormality, tors will activate. first thing to be concerned with is that the idle is set at the proper rpms for your sled. next, confirm the fact that there is at least 2-3mm of freeplay in the flipper prior to pulling the carbs open. this measurement is taken between the flipper and the perch. hood up, watch the carbs, slowly apply the throttle, when the carbs start to open, measure the distance from the lever to the perch. any less than 2mm and the system will activate. you can test your tors system simply by pushing back on the pivot point with the sled running and applying throttle. occasionally a bad switch may be to blame for activation. the switch on the carbs has a pair of wires, one black, the other black w/ yellow stripe. connect you tester to these leads and pull the throttle. throttle on-no continuity. for the perch switch, unplug the white connector under the bar cover, same black-black/yellow, activate throttle and you should have continuity. to temporarily by-pass the tors system for troubleshooting purposesm simply unplug the bullet connectors at the carbs and plug them back into themselves. meaning the pair from the carbs into each other and the pair the carbs would have been connected to into each other. the carbs dont care, this was just to avoid confusion. its the wires leading TO the carbs that matters. hope this clears the air on TORS.
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Alright thanks for the input everyone! Really appreciate it! So I bypassed the tors to diagnose the problem. Runs like a top now! Obviously after doing research I want to be safe and not ride with it off. What can I do now? I tried adjusting the throttle and that didn't work. I went all the way loose as possible and still tripped it. I'm assuming the next step is to tear the carbs off again and clean the tors sensor? I saw a forum with a guide to clean it.
Another question. I got it running great, idles good. But it is a pain to start. It's 45 degrees and it still took like 8 pulls to fire.. What can I do to help it start better? It's almost impossible when it's below 0. Brand new plugs and fresh gas in it.
Another question. I got it running great, idles good. But it is a pain to start. It's 45 degrees and it still took like 8 pulls to fire.. What can I do to help it start better? It's almost impossible when it's below 0. Brand new plugs and fresh gas in it.
roudyroy1
Active member
clean those switches!
for starting,crack the throttle a little bit. pull with one hand and hold the throttle open like 1/8 with the other, it will start in like half a pull lol don't ask me why this is but it seems allot of Yamaha triples start like this when hot.
if your talking about cold starting, i would look at float height, make sure the choke is properly adjusted and the pulse line to the fuel pump.