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Well here's the scoop. I took my 96XT out to 144 w/ a new 1.5 Camo Crossover track. I made drop brackets that took it up 2 inches so that the track will clear the tunnel H/Es. And even with those drop brackets raising it 2 inches, I still had to trim 1/4 inch off of the track directly below the H/Es.
Now , there is ZERO shock rebound or any movement in the rear skid. The x-fer rods are tight to the top. Any idears or suggestions?
Now , there is ZERO shock rebound or any movement in the rear skid. The x-fer rods are tight to the top. Any idears or suggestions?
did you move the centre mount down? brother had to do that on his rxwar when he tried drop brackets.
Take a look at the rear arm pivot point and make sure it didnt flop forward during removal,, if it did, the suspension will be Stiff and not move. the rear arm and the pivot point need to pivot towards the rear of the sled.
super1c
Super Moderator
You have to move all mounting points in a arc or it will bind. i used a thin piece of wood and marked each mounting point. Then bolted the front mount point (keep stock mount point) and moved the rear mount point down to where i wanted it then the middle will be lined up perfect. You will need to move the drop brackets a bit to keep the arc perfect.
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I'll have to look that over. It's not just stiff, it is SOLID.
Cool, Hopefully it's something simple. When I was removing my rear suspension for the first time, I took out the rear bolts and the skid dropped out slightly,, then I removed the center mounting point bolts and the front arm mounting bolts. I could not get the suspension out very easily at all.. I was wondering why I could not collapse the rear arm part of the suspension. Then I realized that the rear swinging point for the rear arm pivoted forward when the rear dropped out of the skid...
I flipped it back the other way and the suspension instantly collapsed and almost smashed my hand,,lol..
but when the rear pivot point was flopped forward,,the suspension would Not Move at All! I hope its something simple.
I flipped it back the other way and the suspension instantly collapsed and almost smashed my hand,,lol..
but when the rear pivot point was flopped forward,,the suspension would Not Move at All! I hope its something simple.
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I'm more of the "Crayons & Easel" type. You might literally have to draw me a picture. I'm a caveman.
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I might have misplaced a few brain cells back in the 70s.
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That explains a lot. Thank-you. I was looking at some of your other vids, that 1 inch Durasport looks like it's in perfect shape.
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How do I determine how much to drop the mid point(by the boots heals).
Ok After re reading the top post, I understand that you made a 96 Vmax into a 144" track and you added drop brackets to the very back. It would seem to me like that when dropping the rear, you would have to compensate for the mid mounting point as well. So here is what I would do,, I would pull the skid out,, then I would find a wooden yard stick,, drill a hole in it at one end the size of the bolt for the very front mounting point and from underneath the sled,, hold and line up the yardstick with the mounting holes,, place the bolt in the hole you drilled and into the front mounting point to hold it and keep it lined up,, it helps to have someone there,, but I did not,, so I used a nut and bolt and just loosely bolted the yardstick in the front mounting point..it will have to be somewhat loose because there is rivets that will interfere.
then I would grab a sharpie marker and line the yardstick up with the center mounting point hole and the Stock rear mounting point hole,, and from the outside of the sled,,use the sharpie to mark the holes on the yardstick.. then remove the yard stick and drill out the holes you marked in the yardstick.. then bolt the yard stick back where it was in the front mounting point. then you can line it up with the stock holes and then pivot the yardstick down and use it as a guide to mark where the new lower holes need to be drilled from underneath the sled. then use a punch to center the holes and drill the new holes. I like using a small "step bit" to drill the holes but thats just my preference.
This will pretty much assure you that you will move all the holes correctly and line them up where they need to be. Hopefully you get it figured out.
then I would grab a sharpie marker and line the yardstick up with the center mounting point hole and the Stock rear mounting point hole,, and from the outside of the sled,,use the sharpie to mark the holes on the yardstick.. then remove the yard stick and drill out the holes you marked in the yardstick.. then bolt the yard stick back where it was in the front mounting point. then you can line it up with the stock holes and then pivot the yardstick down and use it as a guide to mark where the new lower holes need to be drilled from underneath the sled. then use a punch to center the holes and drill the new holes. I like using a small "step bit" to drill the holes but thats just my preference.
This will pretty much assure you that you will move all the holes correctly and line them up where they need to be. Hopefully you get it figured out.