Well my mechanic took it apart as it seemed to be leaking from lower front cover. He pulled it apart and said about a cup of antifreeze came out from wrong side of seal! Shaft is pretty rusty as well. He is not familiar with yamahas and wondered if he takes what looks to be a snap ring off shaft if it will come out and the back side beating will stay put versus falling into motor? Should I get new shaft and outer bearing or Do you guys think my sled/motor is shot if that much antifreeze came out? 2001 with only 2300 miles on it. I put 1,000 of those on last year and did notice a few drops underneath once in while and it was using antifreeze from reserve tank also. Bumming
I should ad I have started it each month all summer and legit idle for 10 minutes. Only recently I noticed antifreeze under sled afterwards so hoping this leak worsened not too long ago.
I should ad I have started it each month all summer and legit idle for 10 minutes. Only recently I noticed antifreeze under sled afterwards so hoping this leak worsened not too long ago.
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sloTJ
Member
There's a mechanical seal behind the impeller and the whole gasket could be bad too. The shaft for the impeller is turned directly by the crank.
sloTJ
Member
Also, if it was using coolant that much the head gaskets should be checked too. I don't know if it was overheating ever but I so it could certainly be this.
Gilly's mechanic sent me some pics last night. I was going to work on it but didn't call Gilly when I said I would. Anyhow, looking at my SRX manual it looks like the shaft is supported at each end by two bearings and if the outer bearing is removed (the one behind the seals/impeller as mentioned above), the shaft should come out with it. The shaft is nasty and needs replacement but the bearing isn't corroded like the shaft is - near as I can tell.
So the quesiton is - by removing the snap ring, will the shaft come out (I assume along with the outer bearing) while the inner bearing (on the other side of the crank) stays put?
I guess another question is - are the SRX and SXR the same?
roudyroy1
Active member
I would think it should come out with the snap ring. Even in the oem yamaha manuals there is no write up on doing this.... Odd.
sloTJ
Member
Is it an SRX or an SX? It doesnt look like my SX waterpump. I DO know that the viper waterpump and the SX700 waterpumps are nearly identical.
that is not a 700 sxr!
sloTJ
Member
?? It doesn't look like it to me either.
Having not actually seen the sled, I can't argue with either of you except to say - According to our freinds at Port Yamaha, the '01 SRX and SXR and '02 SXV share the same part numbers for both the mech and oil seal and shaft bearings. The SRX and SXV share the same shaft part number but SXR uses another.
Headed over there tomorrow to pick up juniors enticer and will confirm that Gilly knows what he's riding. Sure looked like an SXR when it went past me LOL.
As long as the shaft isn't too long, once the oil pump end of the shaft drops out of the inner race of the rear bearing, it should clear the crank...
In any case - it's a good example of the necessity of performing coolant PM.
sleddineinar
VIP Member
I don't think that shaft comes out like that. I think you have to split the case... At least, I've never taken it out the way you are trying to take it out. I've only had them out when I was having crankshaft work done, so after the case is split. But I could be wrong.
You are correct, it will not.
It is a redheaded SXR.
I pulled the clutch and he's going to split the case.
So I do have a 2001 SX700R and yes it is the red headed triple. I called Port Yamaha in Wisconsin Saturday and explained the situation. He said the shaft will come out once the snap ring and outer bearing are removed. He knew all about the problem as it is very common. I will call the. Again tomorrow to verify once again. If not I plan to cancel the order. Do not want to spend more money to split case.
We did not try to remove the bearing Saturday when I was there to pick up the Enticer. Kinda makes sense that it might work given that the shaft needs to drop down to clear the crank and removing the bearing would help.
I'm headed over there tonight to drop off some parts and will have another peek.
Kevin the parts manager at port yamaha said he has sold 100s of those shafts in days past and it is totally serviceable. He said if you pull the shaft once snap ring is removed the other bearing will come with. new one will slide back in and there is no reason to look at from oil pump side. Said the shaft is notched for both the inner and outer bearings. He was very convincing so I let the order stand. I would really love to hear from someone to verify this is the case though.
Little late to the party here...
You are on the right track. It's best to have the engine out to do this.
Remove the impeller as you have done, then the oil seal, then the snap ring.
The shaft will pull out - you may need to tap it with a slide hammer or something. Ne careful that the bottom of the shaft doesn't also pull out the bottom bearing. You can use a flashlight to look inside the case and make sure the bearing is still seated.
Is it does come out it will just take some careful maneuvering with long tools to put it back into place. The easiest way i have found is to use the shaft with the front - or top - bearing removed to carefully re-seat the bottom bearing.
I think a new bearing is less than $10 - I would replace that, the oil seal, the mechanical seal - and maybe the shaft if it has rust. The shaft is the most $$ part at about $80 for a new one.
No need to crack the case. It's pretty straightforward - especially with the engine out of the sled on the bench.
You are on the right track. It's best to have the engine out to do this.
Remove the impeller as you have done, then the oil seal, then the snap ring.
The shaft will pull out - you may need to tap it with a slide hammer or something. Ne careful that the bottom of the shaft doesn't also pull out the bottom bearing. You can use a flashlight to look inside the case and make sure the bearing is still seated.
Is it does come out it will just take some careful maneuvering with long tools to put it back into place. The easiest way i have found is to use the shaft with the front - or top - bearing removed to carefully re-seat the bottom bearing.
I think a new bearing is less than $10 - I would replace that, the oil seal, the mechanical seal - and maybe the shaft if it has rust. The shaft is the most $$ part at about $80 for a new one.
No need to crack the case. It's pretty straightforward - especially with the engine out of the sled on the bench.
Well my mechanic didn't want to pull out the shaft. Both Port Yamaha and Hacker Houghton Lake said it will pull out. So he cleaned up the shaft with emory cloth put all new seals in and did the green loctite deal between shaft and impeller splines, etc. He let that sit for 2 days before he put back in the new antifreeze I had bought. Got my fingers crossed hoping it won't leak or start to use antifreeze again anytime soon. However, other posts have said once that shaft is corroded it will eat up new seals. I guess if it starts to leak again I will have to take it to dealer and have them do it up with a new shaft, etc. Hackers quoted 3.5 hrs at $89 er hour or $350 labor plus parts. Any opinions on when or if it will start to leak again?
Thanks Gilly
Thanks Gilly