Enticer driving me nuts!!!

A

artie_bc

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Joined
Nov 20, 2012
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38
Location
Swan River, MB
I'm having a hard time with the kid's Enticer 250, it's either a 77 or 78. It runs fine for half an hour or so, then it starts flooding if it idles too long or if you bog it down in deep snow. It ran fine the winter before last, then started doing this last winter and I've been trying to sort it out ever since. When you try to get it moving it just bogs out, and will just barely keep running with the throttle held wide open. I know it's flooding because if I shut the fuel off, it clears up after emptying the carb. If you can get the gas back on quick enough, you can take off and ride until you bog it down again or stop, then the problem recurs. It idles fine, it's just when you hit the gas it loads up. I've been through the carb and can't see anything, replaced needle & seat, didn't help. I can't see how jetting would change abruptly with no change in conditions. Ideas, anyone?
 

The float is either:
1. Varnished up enough that the weight of it is always in the down position calling to fill the bowls up.
2. Floats that old can fatigue and get a teeny tiny crack. Subsequently causing fuel to enter the float and making it not buoyant at all.
 
This one has been converted to a Mikuni round slide. I've had the carb apart a few times already, but I'll check again, I guess.
 
I'm guessing ignition since you can drive it for a half hour then it acts up. Something is getting warm (coil,internal or external or condeser) then crap'n out. Something like this would seem like its loading up when it warm, then run fine for a bit once its cool. This is also a bad crank seal symptom. Are you sure your choke plunger is seated all the way down?? Are you sure the carb is jetted for that engine??
 
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Throttle Junkie35 said:
I'm guessing ignition since you can drive it for a half hour then it acts up. Something is getting warm (coil,internal or external or condeser) then crap'n out. Something like this would seem like its loading up when it warm, then run fine for a bit once its cool. This is also a bad crank seal symptom. Are you sure your choke plunger is seated all the way down?? Are you sure the carb is jetted for that engine??
Click to expand...
That's right! Forgot about that.
Typically the electrical insulation in the coil is old and degraded. The insulation works fine when it's nice and tight when cold. As soon as the insulation gets warm, it swells and the degradation to the insulation is exposed to ground.
Weak spark can also occur. Causing the issue your having.
 
Well, I did some tinkering today, I pulled the carb and checked the floats, they are clean as a whistle, foam floats and seem plenty buoyant. I dropped the floats just to see if that would help. Turned the kids loose, after half an hour it bogged out. So I cranked the air screw out about 3/4 turn and that helped a bunch. Now I need to raise my floats back where they belong. I think I'm going to try dropping one size on the pilot jet, and see what that does. I think the air screw works it's way in from the vibration, it's pretty loose. Is there supposed to be a spring behind it. There is no choke circuit, I just use a primer.
 
If it idles fine and is normally responsive, leave the pilot jet alone. Yes there is supposed to be a spring behind the screw to hold it in place. Try pinching the primer line. The plunger might not be working correctly and you might be drawing unmetered fuel in from the primer set up.
Did this sled run good with this carb before or is this a new installation??
If your only 3/4 out total on the air screw, you have a heck of a lot of adjustment left to lean it out. Genrally I see 5/8 to 1-1/2 turns out on any given sled. You can go out as much as 2-1/2 turns before the screw will no longer do anything. At that point, then you would go down a pilot size.
 
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It was running fine with this carb and then started acting up last winter. I opened the air screw 3/4 more than it was already, not sure what the total turns are. I thought for a while that it was the primer, but disconnecting it did not help. It idles fine and drives fine, it's just getting it moving that is a problem, and only when it's good and warm. I've checked over the clutches and they are shifting fine. The belt is new. I'm going to have to bring my Imrie home and see what the spark is like
 
I read most but may have missed some details .... Fuel pump added ,, might draw into crankcase ?? BUT I had a trailfire that had
primer added and it would draw fuel in the primer circuit ,,, had to squeeze the line shut with small vise grips ... yes ,,, it would load up when you
let off and was worse when hot...
Good luck
Ron
 
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