Hello everyone,
I have a 1999 SRX600 with a crank poking out the side of the case,no case markings on the pto side,so don't know if the crank campaign was accomplished, I suspect not.
The sled has 6000 miles and is picked.
I would like to know what engines are EASILY (interchangeable) swappable into the sled. Thank you!
I have a 1999 SRX600 with a crank poking out the side of the case,no case markings on the pto side,so don't know if the crank campaign was accomplished, I suspect not.
The sled has 6000 miles and is picked.
I would like to know what engines are EASILY (interchangeable) swappable into the sled. Thank you!
Last edited:
Devilin AblueDress!
New member
,
Any 98-99 SRX 600 or 700 is a direct bolt in. They both use same cranks/cases/stator/flywheel etc. Cylinders, pistons,carbs and power valves are the only difference between the 600 and 700. Newer 700's bolt right in BUT electronics are all different and carbs have TPS sensor. Going with newer (00-02) I would recommend getting entire engine,harness, CDI and then dual bulb head light and gauge pod......just for ease of install.
CDI boxes are different between SRX 600's and 700's. If you get a 700 engine, try to get the CDI box with it, or you can also search/post in the classified here for one.
Clutch calibration and chaincase gearing are different as well between 600 & 700, doesn't mean you can't try it the way it is but you'll likely want to make changes to be closer to optimal. If your clutches haven't been inspected or serviced recently, or at all, you'll want to do so anyway especially with 6000 miles. For the primary clutch, it's not uncommon to have worn bushings and sliders at that mileage, and also check for cracks in the sheaves especially small hairline cracks down at the base/bottom of the belt travel. The secondary clutches don't have as many moving parts so they have fewer issues, but it's a good idea to check the bushings and plastic ramp shoes. Also a good idea to check the chaincase chain tension, loose chains are known to break, and usually causes more damage, and $cost$.
Clutch calibration and chaincase gearing are different as well between 600 & 700, doesn't mean you can't try it the way it is but you'll likely want to make changes to be closer to optimal. If your clutches haven't been inspected or serviced recently, or at all, you'll want to do so anyway especially with 6000 miles. For the primary clutch, it's not uncommon to have worn bushings and sliders at that mileage, and also check for cracks in the sheaves especially small hairline cracks down at the base/bottom of the belt travel. The secondary clutches don't have as many moving parts so they have fewer issues, but it's a good idea to check the bushings and plastic ramp shoes. Also a good idea to check the chaincase chain tension, loose chains are known to break, and usually causes more damage, and $cost$.
Devilin AblueDress!
New member
X2 on the CDI for 98-99 600 and 700 CDI's. They look exactly the same (size/shape/plug in connector) Have to verify by part number. Some guys run the 600 CDI on the 700 motor as the 600 has an advanced timing curve. essentially a shade tree "race box". This opens a whole nother can of worms as you shouldn't run a hotter box (advanced timing) with out re-jetting carbs.
I have 2 98/99 CDIs for a 700 if you need one.