After doing some work on my sled, I had to remove the rear heat exchanger. Now I seem to have a hard time with the coolant being bled. I opened the back screw, had a nice flow from there... then I lifted the back and open the screw on the water rail (that connect to the heads) and nothing ever came out. I ended up running the sled for abit and had it run till the thermostat opens ( from reading in the manual, if the heat exchangers start getting warm to the touch, its cause it opened, Right?) Then I opened up the screw on the water rail, and still nothing coming out. I even tried doing it while the sled is running... and still nothing.
After doubting the thermostat, and that fluid was getting to the heads, i took apart the thermostat housing and fluid started flowing out of it... Hmm Whats going on???
I read if i lift the front end about 3 feet, that works too.. Any one do this? Or even tip it on its side...?
Im getting ready to go for a couple hundred km ride on Friday/Saturday and want to make sure everything is set ....
After doubting the thermostat, and that fluid was getting to the heads, i took apart the thermostat housing and fluid started flowing out of it... Hmm Whats going on???
I read if i lift the front end about 3 feet, that works too.. Any one do this? Or even tip it on its side...?
Im getting ready to go for a couple hundred km ride on Friday/Saturday and want to make sure everything is set ....
Lift the back end up above the level of the coolant bottle,fill the bottle with mixed anti freeze,remove the bleeder screw in the rear heat exchanger and gently lower the rear of the sled down til anti freeze comes out the hole.Put the screw back in and your done.I've use this method every time I've ever had to drain the coolant and it's never failed me.
What about the other side... the other heat exchanger wont stay empty ?
Don't over think it. My srx was the easiest sled I ever had to work on with regard to the cooling system. I had that motor apart so many times I got so I didn't even worry about it. Fill ER up, fire it up, and if both coolers get warm and the water is moving in the bottle you're good to go. The last tunnel extension that I put on it I didn't even bother drilling the hole for the bleed screw.
X2 - if the coolers are warm, you're flowing coolant and it'll push any remaining air to the bottle.
Bleed through the rear screw when filling up before starting, then top it off at the bottle after warm.
roudyroy1
Active member
May have to hear cycle it a few times to push any remaining air out.
Devilin AblueDress!
New member
Keep an eye on tank though, may need to add depending on how empty xchangers are.
Devilin AblueDress!
New member
SRX has a bypass in the cooling system that lets coolant back fill so to speak in other side.
beekmanSRX
Member
I was wondering the same thing actually....I replaced the front heat exchanger on my 02 SRX (beauty job that is) and came time to fill with coolant. I lifted the rear end, cracked bleed screw on rear exchanger and had good flow, no bubbles. Tightened that screw up and went to the rail and loosened that screw out out. I had no flow out of it either. According to the manual this is a neccessary step but the concensus here is that its not an issue? It's been in the back of my mind ever since
OK, so I'm a little different! All I've ever done is slightly lift the FRONT end, remove cap, slowly fill system until the coolant bottle maintains a level. Start sled (with cap off), verify water pump is functioning, coolant level immediately drops, fill to maintain level, leave cap off to allow air to escape. Run sled at idle until all heat exchangers are warm, check coolant level, install cap...done. Never had an issue!
Well, I gotta say that what I had done was good enough! Rode for a good 150 KM in a day, and 50KM the first day, never over heated!! Perfect! thanks guys!!
same thing with me, I hardly ever even bother removing the bleed screws, with the front up on peice of 2x4 wood on top ski dollies(rollers) and back of sled/track on ground it bleeds itself. The thermostat has a bleed hole that lines up with bleed groove in housing so it moves the air out even before the thermostat opens.