So after the Christmas festivities, I decided to wet sand and buff the hood. Many issues. This is day 4 and directions say to wait 3 to 5 days before doing this. First of all, I think their idea of 3 to 5 days is 70 degrees. I run the heater alot so thought I was ok there. I started with 1000 grit wet and moved to 1500 and then 2000. All orange peel gone, even did some where I didn't paint with the 2000. That paint line was 75% gone. I washed and dried it and moved on to the compound. I used a Wen vortex DA buffer with variable speed and all chemical guys compounds and pads. Directions say to match pad to grit of compound. I started with a medium/heavy pad with #32 compound. It says to put a few drops on and spread it on at speed 1 and then use speed 5-6 for doing the job. All the compound say this. I started on the untouched side and gradually worked my way to the repaired areas avoiding the decals. As soon as I got to the painted part, I heard the polisher bog a little but it will maintain a constant speed. This is where the fun began. On a few edges, I could see the clearcoat smearing! I was not having a good time at this point. I felt the surface ant it was cool so not over heating. So I reduced the speed to around 2.5 an used barely any pressure on the rest of the fresh paint parts. Then I noticed the tape lines getting more pronounced. This the first time using this combo of tools, pads, and compounds. I won't use a rotary buffer on a sled, just too many sharp edges and too big. This is 6". Just right for a sled. Any way, I wiped it down and I gotta say, for an aggressive pad and compound, the old paint looked much better but the new paint was very hazy and clear was smeared in a few spots and looked even darker than before I started. So I used a much finer cutting pad and #34 compound and left speed at 2.5 on fresh paint with no pressure. On old paint I set it at 5 and used moderate pressure. Wiped that down and old paint started really showing depth and new paint less hazy and some depth. The next step I used a very fine cut pad and #36 compound. Did the same as before and even went over the decals. This time the old paint was taking on a depth and shine I never saw before and new paint was presentable. Each step, the clear got a tad worse though. Next I used a non cutting pad and #38 compound using the same technique. WOW to the old paint and new paint was starting to really shine. I did this step 2 times. Wiped it down and checked it over. Very defined masking line and a pretty bad clearcoat smear but the shed had a depth and shine it never had. I do have black optics compound but It might have a sealant of some kind in it so I did not use this as paint obviously wasn't ready for this. This is a 6 step process including the wax which I am not using for 2 to 3 weeks.
Bottom line: This chemical guys stuff is amazing. I bought a foam pad set and a 4 step compound kit(16 oz) 2 black optics pads. This stuff will last a long time as you only need a small amount and you can really work it for a long time. It is all on sale now. Compounds are $50 for the 4 piece set which are normally $18 a bottle. The black light stuff is $25. The 6.5" pad set is $60(7 pads and pad cleaner. The other 2 pads which I haven't tried yet were $11 each(black optics). This stuff works great and will last a very long time. I may try this on aluminum and see what happens, I'll let you all know. They have an aluminum polish but its probably the same as all the other stuff out there. I think I can save this paint job after a few more days. I will just try the final (#3
stage when paint is more cured. The depth is amazing. The pics don't do justice. They are of sled under floresent lighting. There is no Glaze, sealer or wax on here yet. But as usual, I screwed up.
Mrsled should make a sticky thread of things not to do and most posts would be mine. I really think I can save this one though.
Vic
Bottom line: This chemical guys stuff is amazing. I bought a foam pad set and a 4 step compound kit(16 oz) 2 black optics pads. This stuff will last a long time as you only need a small amount and you can really work it for a long time. It is all on sale now. Compounds are $50 for the 4 piece set which are normally $18 a bottle. The black light stuff is $25. The 6.5" pad set is $60(7 pads and pad cleaner. The other 2 pads which I haven't tried yet were $11 each(black optics). This stuff works great and will last a very long time. I may try this on aluminum and see what happens, I'll let you all know. They have an aluminum polish but its probably the same as all the other stuff out there. I think I can save this paint job after a few more days. I will just try the final (#3
stage when paint is more cured. The depth is amazing. The pics don't do justice. They are of sled under floresent lighting. There is no Glaze, sealer or wax on here yet. But as usual, I screwed up.Mrsled should make a sticky thread of things not to do and most posts would be mine. I really think I can save this one though.
Vic
