Just saw a video of pro-action suspension. mine is not right. Those links in rear are suppose to have a certain amount of room above them without rider. Mine are bottomed out hard on top and 1 inch metel "pipe" shim below link. I think I have the manual on cd-rom.
Sounds like the fra needs to be turned up and the springs need to be set. Do you know when the shocks where last serviced?
Can you post a picture of your suspension? How long have you owned the sled? Any chance someone did some modifying for drag racing?
Yes I have pics. The front arm has paint pen on it "03 rx-1". The rear holes are drilled 1 inch back and others are stock. There are bigger holes in tunnel up by front of foot board for no apparent reason. No idea when serviced last. Had sled for just about a year. All looks in good shape. All I did was set front shock to middle notch and greased. Also replaced 6 wheels and packed others. OH, moved 2nd idler up where other side is. Track has maybe 2 seasons on it and had no studs when I bought it so I doubt it was setup for drag.
Attachments
Last edited:
Just took some more pics with skid in. Also the strange holes on front of tunnel. Maybe someone can tell me what was trying to be done to this thing. Do these sleds have 2 mounting holes an inch apart for the rear bolts or were they drilled? You cant see them as they are both behind the washer thing. I also took one of front so you can see how loose its set. I didn't think the ride was horrible but not like the video shows.
Attachments
devinzz1
Active member
Those are aftermarket adjustable rods
TopGunnSrx
New member
They look like bender transfer rods, also looks like you're missing the nylon washers.
What adjusts? No nylon shims, just that metal "pipe" spacer below link. What am I suppose to adjust on this. Just the blue thing is aftermarket?
If you jack the rear end of the sled up until the track is off the ground, does the gap on the transfer rod change? ie... does the space under the metal pipe(transfer rod adjustment nut) move to the top side of the adjuster?
As for the rx1 w-arm, its hard to say what other mods they've done to the rear skid. Do you have a pic of the re-drilled holes you mentioned? are they in the rails? or the tunnel?
As for the rx1 w-arm, its hard to say what other mods they've done to the rear skid. Do you have a pic of the re-drilled holes you mentioned? are they in the rails? or the tunnel?
TopGunnSrx
New member
Just the blue piece down is aftermarket. To adjust them you slide the blue part up and twist it, you'll see the adjustment come up above the blue part it is scribed with lines to show you how much transfer your set at. Ive had the best luck with 2.5 lines showing. The gap should be on top not the bottom though....
Last edited:
I'll go jack it up as I cant remember about gap changing. The holes are the rear skid mounting holes in tunnel. cant see due to the washer. Let me see if these things move. I also contacted bender about a PDF manual for these and bought a proaction manual....BRB. Ok Jacked up changes nothing. I even stepped on track and nothing. I tried to adjust but not being to slide them up doesn't help. They just rock back and forth a little. Does the whole blue thing turn to adjust or just half. Reason I ask is bottom part is knurled and top isnt. I started checking into this as there is no weight transfer when you give'er the gas. Just track spin. Thats why I bought more studs. Now at 240 studs. I took a pic of rear suspension mount on tunnel, if you look close you can see it was forward once before by a faint wear mark on footboard. Now I am wondering which hole is the original one. AHHH, I hate trying to figure out what someone was trying to do. I also took a pic from the rear of skid to front to see if you can tell if something else is out of wack.
Thanks.
P.S. All 3 pics is with rear jacked up.
Thanks.
P.S. All 3 pics is with rear jacked up.
Attachments
Last edited:
TopGunnSrx
New member
Pull it out and switch rear holes, see what happens.
looking at your pic the problem is the rear shock spring is all unloaded and thats why you dont have any upper gap in the transfer rods and i bet the sled rides like crap. Unloosen the lock ring and tighten up the shock spring(spray the rings with wd40 and make sure the threads are clean, you can usually put the sled up on a stand via the rear bumper and spin the spring by hand to tighten it up. I see you only have about 1 inch of thread showing, thats your problem.
I agree with MrViper, but wouldnt the suspension unload if the rear was raised in the air? Definitely going to be a pain trying to figure out what the previous owner was trying to accomplish?!?!
Yes it does ride stiff but nothing to compare it to. It actually seemed ok until I watched that video. I thought if I was following that guy, I would probably fly off. Should I try the front mounting holes too? Its strange, with spring that loose, I hardly have any suspension. Thats why I bought the manual(pro-action). The front of that spring is at or near the top of slot which if I remember right is the "tight" setting. I will start tightening it inch by inch until I see a gap on top of link. I will shoot for 1/2 on each side since no manuals yet. The geometry is all messed up on this thing. Then I will do what video says until I have the manual for specs. Then do the front which seems set way loose but steered great. I am comparing this to the 70's and 80's sleds that I am used to. Is that why I have no weight transfer? I just want to put everything to factory spec and fine tune from there. Still wish I knew what rear skid mounting hole is original. Can someone measure where it is from some reference point? There is no reason I should have around $500 in studs in this thing and the track was new, 2 seasons. I'm sure this manual is in the vip section, if not I will scan and send. Its just for 97-98 protraction fine tuning. The arctic cat has issues like this too but not as Rubiks cube like this one. Thanks for all the help. Also, The carrier wheels are another issue. I wanted to order new ones from denniskirk and they say OD of wheel is 5.25 inches. Mine are 7, same as rear wheels. I wish I could find 1 part number on skid that would tell me what it is as I still dont think Its original.
Last edited:
SRXtreme
New member
It's been awhile since I had a pro-action, but in your pic 0218 the lower rear arm at static height needs to be at 90*. Looks like the geometry is all fubbard, need to correct it first then start with basic adjustments..............SRXtreme