Hi
Tightened shock to about half way and still no change to transfer rods. I messed with them and kinda see how they work but I think I unthreaded one internally. But the only thing that affects transfer rod space is track tension. I even moved rear bolts to front holes which is where they are supposed to be by pics I saw. I can not figure this out. If I unbolt the read of skid, bingo space ontop of transfer rod. As soon as I start to tighten track tension, space starts to move to bottom and by the time track is tightened properly, I have no space above transfer rod?????
Please see other suspension post for more details.
Tightened shock to about half way and still no change to transfer rods. I messed with them and kinda see how they work but I think I unthreaded one internally. But the only thing that affects transfer rod space is track tension. I even moved rear bolts to front holes which is where they are supposed to be by pics I saw. I can not figure this out. If I unbolt the read of skid, bingo space ontop of transfer rod. As soon as I start to tighten track tension, space starts to move to bottom and by the time track is tightened properly, I have no space above transfer rod?????
Please see other suspension post for more details.
Is this with the ride on the sled or off?
off. I did find out a few more things. I tightened spring all but 1/2 inch or so and lowered sled from jack and I saw maybe 1/2" space on top of transfer rod. This is the first time I ever had a gap on top so were on to something. This is with track already tight but not to exact spec. If I jack up rear, all space is on bottom, on ground its about 1/2 and 1/2. It actually seems looser while bouncing on it. I still can play with front of rear shock placement. Now its all the way up which I think is soft. These are after market transfer rods so I don't know how to adjust. I just want space on top of it. I don't think I can get all the space on top but some is better then none. I didn't want to start a new thread but was in a hurry and all greasy. The pics below are tonights results
First pic is where transfer rod is with sled on ground with track tight(not at spec).
Second is how much I adjusted spring, shouldn't have to adjust that much but still trying to figure out what someone did to this.
Third is front setting I can play around with, never touched this one yet.
Fourth is moving mounting bolts to correct holes as I found out in pics of other srx's
I have no idea why someone drilled new holes in tunnel. I have no idea if suspension is from a 98. All I know is (this may not be correct) when I went to order wheels. rears are 7" carrier and the skid 5.25", and those 3.5 little ones. Mine had 7 for carrier and if I put 5.25 on track would rub rear shock mount and W bracket says 03 rx-1 on it with paint marker. If anyone has a pic of a 98 srx skid, please post it or tell me where it is. Those dalton rransfer rods do something when I turn them, it looked like something was unthreading out from top. I turned the other way and I think I bottomed them out or unthreaded whatever is inside. I emailed them for a pdf instruction manual with no response.
Thanks
First pic is where transfer rod is with sled on ground with track tight(not at spec).
Second is how much I adjusted spring, shouldn't have to adjust that much but still trying to figure out what someone did to this.
Third is front setting I can play around with, never touched this one yet.
Fourth is moving mounting bolts to correct holes as I found out in pics of other srx's
I have no idea why someone drilled new holes in tunnel. I have no idea if suspension is from a 98. All I know is (this may not be correct) when I went to order wheels. rears are 7" carrier and the skid 5.25", and those 3.5 little ones. Mine had 7 for carrier and if I put 5.25 on track would rub rear shock mount and W bracket says 03 rx-1 on it with paint marker. If anyone has a pic of a 98 srx skid, please post it or tell me where it is. Those dalton rransfer rods do something when I turn them, it looked like something was unthreading out from top. I turned the other way and I think I bottomed them out or unthreaded whatever is inside. I emailed them for a pdf instruction manual with no response.
Thanks
Attachments
Last edited:
You want the gap the same top and bottom WITH YOU ON the sled... it will always be all the way to the top with no rider.
Have you used this:
http://www.totallyamaha.net/forums/threads/34503-setting-up-your-suspension
http://www.totallyamaha.net/forums/threads/34503-setting-up-your-suspension
No, didn't see that. I think I have a rough setup now. I adjusted the fra to all the way down and backed off spring just until I saw control arm move, then tightened it 1 turn. It doesn't move all that much when sitting on it but if I bounce, It will move alot. Also from last thread, I am very close to 90 degrees with rear arm thing. I don't know if the guy I bought this thing from did this but he was huge. Like WWE 6'8" 350# so was his friend. So I am getting somewhere. May get some snow this weekend to try it and other sled. I will read that. I clicked on it last night and said server was busy.
Thanks for the help
Thanks for the help
WedigSRX
Member
My guess is someone had a aftermarket suspension in it at one time.
Like mentioned above you must set it with your rider weight on it.
I went threw my skid 2 years ago and did the Betheviper set-up. I was skeptical not running preload on the front shock, but if you follow his set-up your W arm will live much longer and it will handle bumps as good as a "NO action" can......
Still tweaking here and their.
You want to account for real riding conditions, snow and ice builds up on the rear tunnel. That will reduce your upper gap, keep that in mind when setting your rear spring tension.
Like mentioned above you must set it with your rider weight on it.
I went threw my skid 2 years ago and did the Betheviper set-up. I was skeptical not running preload on the front shock, but if you follow his set-up your W arm will live much longer and it will handle bumps as good as a "NO action" can......
Still tweaking here and their.
You want to account for real riding conditions, snow and ice builds up on the rear tunnel. That will reduce your upper gap, keep that in mind when setting your rear spring tension.
OK I understand. Arctic cat says same thing about front skid shock. Mine was all the way tight. Today I did front. Like the article says but I did buy the "dam rod"(before I read it). It was a 5/8" grounding rod from menards. Would work good on brand new sled I guess.
Mine, of course, was way out of wack. Camber I set with a level. Toe, I set ski to ski and checked it with a long board against track to see if It would track straight as I was alone. Bungie on front of skis. I was skeptical about that part. I used a pretty tight one maybe had to stretch 6". Now everything is zero with bungie on skis and camber bubble centered but, this is with no rider. Should be better then before. I never had a front end or steering complaint so I need to test it which brings up a good point WedigSRX, how are you tweaking here and there? We have maybe 3/4" of snow. Just looked at radar and more is on the way tonight(sat) and more mon night 3-5" noaa says. He wasn't kidding about 1 adjustment affecting another!
I did not do anything to front end spring preload or ohlins dampning screws, don't think I will touch those but some good sag in springs. I slowly lower jack and bounce on front and it stays down another inch or so but I forgot that part of article. I pretty much bought this sled sight unseen, I did see it but it was soooo cold out that I said looks good to me. Never even tried to start it for 2 days. This was about a year ago, maybe you remember. I like that your local to me. I've never seen an SRX on the trails around here. I hear some guy has the fastest one in the world around here but never saw him on his sled. He seems to know alot about them. He certianly doesn't look like the snowmobiler type.
P.S. The bungie cord wasn't in that article, Must have been the video. Either way, I should be fine at 0 toe with bungie cord on ski fronts, right? Bellcrank isn't perfect but someone, sometime welded handle bar mount to post maybe crooked a little. It is snowing out now 2:06am so maybe I can test it in morning.
Mine, of course, was way out of wack. Camber I set with a level. Toe, I set ski to ski and checked it with a long board against track to see if It would track straight as I was alone. Bungie on front of skis. I was skeptical about that part. I used a pretty tight one maybe had to stretch 6". Now everything is zero with bungie on skis and camber bubble centered but, this is with no rider. Should be better then before. I never had a front end or steering complaint so I need to test it which brings up a good point WedigSRX, how are you tweaking here and there? We have maybe 3/4" of snow. Just looked at radar and more is on the way tonight(sat) and more mon night 3-5" noaa says. He wasn't kidding about 1 adjustment affecting another!
I did not do anything to front end spring preload or ohlins dampning screws, don't think I will touch those but some good sag in springs. I slowly lower jack and bounce on front and it stays down another inch or so but I forgot that part of article. I pretty much bought this sled sight unseen, I did see it but it was soooo cold out that I said looks good to me. Never even tried to start it for 2 days. This was about a year ago, maybe you remember. I like that your local to me. I've never seen an SRX on the trails around here. I hear some guy has the fastest one in the world around here but never saw him on his sled. He seems to know alot about them. He certianly doesn't look like the snowmobiler type.
P.S. The bungie cord wasn't in that article, Must have been the video. Either way, I should be fine at 0 toe with bungie cord on ski fronts, right? Bellcrank isn't perfect but someone, sometime welded handle bar mount to post maybe crooked a little. It is snowing out now 2:06am so maybe I can test it in morning.
Last edited:
Newfoundlander
New member
I just had my shocks revalved at star suspensions in Quebec. They sent me a spacer kit that lengthens out the transfer rods and you then move it to the rear holes. It made a huge difference an let the suspension work properly instead of binding up. I am very pleased. 
Newfoundlander
New member
When I drop the skid I am going to put in my adjustable rods.
I tested it today and ride was better. Maybe a little more weight on skis will be good. It ran bad though.
Bad ? Need carbs cleaned?
No, It was the tors switch. It wore out I guess.
Todays adjustments were, besides temporarly bypassing tors, Backed off front skid shock 1 more notch and set left ski toe in a little to straighten handlebars(I think bungie cord was way to tight on front of skis).
Checked ski shocks and 1 was 1/2" tighter then the other so I tightened the looser one. Really starting to ride nice and no ski lift, not much traction either. It was very light in the front as far as ski pressure. I can feel it better now. After real world testing, I may loosen front skid shock to last notch but seems fine now. Tomorrows plan is turn idle up 100rpm or so and maybe more polishing. Then work on wildcat. Quite a bit to do on that.
Checked ski shocks and 1 was 1/2" tighter then the other so I tightened the looser one. Really starting to ride nice and no ski lift, not much traction either. It was very light in the front as far as ski pressure. I can feel it better now. After real world testing, I may loosen front skid shock to last notch but seems fine now. Tomorrows plan is turn idle up 100rpm or so and maybe more polishing. Then work on wildcat. Quite a bit to do on that.
You may want to check for enough slack in the throttle cable at idle. If not enough, TORS will activate.
Once your idle speed is set where you want it, loosen the cable adjuster (screwing it in) so you have freeplay. There is plenty of cable length to still achieve WOT. Increasing the idle speed will reduce any slack you have now.
You don't want to continue running without TORS.
I ordered a new tors switch. It would not close even by pushing on it with finger.