I have a 98 SRX 700. I'm trying to test continuity from the main switch to the servo but my wiring diagram is different than the wires on the sled.
I believe my manual may be for a 2000 and newer. The sled runs great and I can actuate the motor under 900 rpm and I have adjusted the power valves and they are clean and moving freely. If i start the sled i get the regular 3 light flash than after a few seconds I get the 7 light flash.
I believe my manual may be for a 2000 and newer. The sled runs great and I can actuate the motor under 900 rpm and I have adjusted the power valves and they are clean and moving freely. If i start the sled i get the regular 3 light flash than after a few seconds I get the 7 light flash.
if its still working(servo) when you idle it down its likely a wire rubbed thru on harness, check the under engine harness first because theats the most common one and if it isnt the problem it will need repaired anyways so its not wasted time then check over above left foot well at the cdi box they rub thru there as well.
youll want to fix this sooner then later or it will ruin the cdi box.
youll want to fix this sooner then later or it will ruin the cdi box.
I just rebuilt the motor and had the harness out and looked it over really well all looked good. I will look at it again of course though. Is there a difference in the wiring harness between a 2000 and a 1998?
yes, completely differnt harness from 98-99 to 2000-02. If you did the under engine harness then its rubbed thru above the cdi box
Does anyone have the correct wiring diagrams so I can properly diagnose my issue?
I've got the service manual for the 98 but I don't know if I can scan the wiring diagrams. I'll check to see if the scanner is working. But like Don said it'll rub through by the cdi too.
also, your not going to test good with just a meter and checking for continuity, because these sleds rub thru the wiring insulation and then they can touch just a couple or alot of srands to the aluminum frame, this causes the problems, when you put your meter on that wire it only needs to have 1 strand still connected to show you continuity but yet its grounded or touching on the frame at the chaff point. Continuity check is ok if you have a single peice of wire, thru a switch or whatever but not real good for a harness chaff.
undo the dash cover and look above the cdi box on left footwell its likelty to be rubbed thru the harness grounding out the wires , sometimes they have to hit a bump to do it. The under engine harness is the famous one thats why once I repair each wire, I tape each one and then place the harness in convolute tubing so I never have to do it agin, very,very common repair needed.
undo the dash cover and look above the cdi box on left footwell its likelty to be rubbed thru the harness grounding out the wires , sometimes they have to hit a bump to do it. The under engine harness is the famous one thats why once I repair each wire, I tape each one and then place the harness in convolute tubing so I never have to do it agin, very,very common repair needed.
Mac
Member
Mr Viper are the rub through problem locations the same for the Viper? I use the bender harness tester and 12 volt battery method. My servo is acting up and wont test correctly. It seems to work then.....it doesnt work. I have taped the harness under the engine years ago.
ya pretty much the same mac, both places are good for problems, you really should put convolute tubing on that under engine harness, it will indeed rub thru the tape just like stock , its usually only a matter of bumpy miles.....lol
Mac
Member
The last time i remember using this tester I thought it pulled the valves up when you turn the key on. Then turn the key off and the motor should run the valves to the closed position. I currently have no cables connected. If i turn the servo barrel by hand to a random position then turn the key on the barrel does turn and does nothing else.
What am i missing?
What am i missing?
never seen one spin the valves back closed so i am unsure what you have there, never ever bought a test harness because i never needed one, just either turn the idle down under 900rpm or use the key on elec start vipers..
Like when you have a elec start viper you can just turn on the key with kill switch in run spot, and the servo will cycle open because its powered and under 900rpm so the cdi just opens the valves, but when you turn the key off it doesnt cycle them back, it doesnt do that till it starts and gets the signal from the cdi.
I believe the tester in the workshop manual and the Bender tester is just a power supply that plugs into the test connector on the sled.
I use 12 volts with a jumper I made to achieve the same thing. I'm nearly certain the servo does not return until you start the sled... on my '01. I think you're seeing normal operation.
I stripped my harness all back again and did not find any bad wiring anywhere. Still flashes 7 times. I readjusted the cables and ran the sled around the back yard a little. My pto cylinder plug was black. The sled ran like crap on the bottom end but pulled and reved out up top.
Mac
Member
Thanks guys. OK so the test connector activates the servo to pull up the the power valves. That works and repeats fine. Yes agreed that it doesnt return the vales to the closed position. I just turn the barrel by hand. My servo motor hums when connected to the battery. Is this normal? Of course when the engine runs we wont hear anything.
I've always used the jumper (applying 12 volts to the red and black wires in the triangular shaped, white, 3-way test connector) to set the servo to the valve open position and don't ever remember hearing it hum after it came to a stop in the valve open position.
Are you saying it hums after it's moved to the valve open position?
This is on an '01 SRX so I hope I'm not adding to any confusion given you're working on a Viper. I think/thought using the tester on the test connector was the same.
On my SRX with electric start, as noted above, with the kill switch up (run position) and key in the on (run position) the servo is energized (same as test leads etc), opens the valves and continues to "hum" as long as power is applied. Servo does not move past this point nor does it return to the closed position if power is removed, it simply stays in the open position.
On my 98 the servo will spin freely there is no definite full open position like I'm reading other servos having. Is there spot that the servo feels is full open or is it just where it sets when I drop the idle and the servo pulls to?
Mac
Member
Snomo - Yes i get the hum after valves are pulled to the open position with the key in the run position.
Northern - says his hums too.
Im gunna test this Sunday. If i pull 9300 rpm on a test pass my servo and valves are working properly.
Then I'm going to unplug the servo and pay attention to RPM. I'm guessing RPM should be 8000 -8200 or thereabout.
---mac---
Northern - says his hums too.
Im gunna test this Sunday. If i pull 9300 rpm on a test pass my servo and valves are working properly.
Then I'm going to unplug the servo and pay attention to RPM. I'm guessing RPM should be 8000 -8200 or thereabout.
---mac---
Mac
Member
Mike - Something sounds wrong. When my servo has no power it takes alot to turn the barrel. Spin freely something is broken. If I turn the barrel energized the servo fights back to maintain position. There must be a spot where the servo senses is the limit for full pull. Mine repeats perfectly with each test. I am doing this with the head removed and adjusting the cables.