i have a 85 phazer and i want to do a longtrack conversion. is a phazer mountain lite skid the same a regular phazer skid with extensions? just want to know if it would be worth it to find a real mountain lite skid or just buy extensions. also i've seen online people using extensions and moving 1 set of wheels to the rear where the extension meets the main rail. has anybody done this? any info on this, what works well, what doesn't work so well would be hugely appreciated.
up through 96 ish. with that 116 skid you have, if you relocate it back 2.5" and rail extend with wps extensions for a 121-136 conversion you will be there. to my knowledge, you wont find a set of extensions to do the 116-136, hence the relocate. you will still need to relocate the mtn lite skid the 2.5" back.
i have done many phazer conversions. with the extensions, the axle and rear wheels move back. not sure i followed what you were saying, but extensions that i have used mount where your original axles and adjuster were and move everything back.
i have done many phazer conversions. with the extensions, the axle and rear wheels move back. not sure i followed what you were saying, but extensions that i have used mount where your original axles and adjuster were and move everything back.
ok. so while im doing that do you think its worth dropping that rear bracket down a little bit? have you ever done this and is it a noticeable difference? also what size lug track can i go up to with the stock driver? i believe it is 8 tooth. i hear of people using a 7 tooth driver to go bigger. with a 7 tooth i would have more low end power and less top speed, correct? do you know what max size lug i can use with a 8 and a 7?
thanks alot for the info!
thanks alot for the info!
1.25 works well with 8's.
so would i be able use a phazer 2 skid instead of relocating mine back 2.5"? or are the skids the same and just set back farther on the phazer 2?
nope. rear mounts need relocated for the pz2 skid. in addition, you will need to add the upper crossover idlers with the pz11 skid.
1 1/4 is a safe bet with the stock 8t drivers. i wont go over 1 1/2 with 7t, but to eash their own. check out yooper woods' thread in the vintage forum and you may understand the need for snow evacuation. if your simply groomed trail riding the issue isnt as predominant. factor that in.
you will need to use drop brackets for the taller lugs. just be sure to keep the geometry correct.
1 1/4 is a safe bet with the stock 8t drivers. i wont go over 1 1/2 with 7t, but to eash their own. check out yooper woods' thread in the vintage forum and you may understand the need for snow evacuation. if your simply groomed trail riding the issue isnt as predominant. factor that in.
you will need to use drop brackets for the taller lugs. just be sure to keep the geometry correct.
YooperWoods
New member
I'm still running the full 2" paddle snowdad, although I'm sure you're not surprised, I'm stubborn I know lol. The only time I felt power loss from not enough snow evac was when running wot across the lake in maybe a foot and a half of powder. At 50 mph or so I could feel the drag and it was VERY noticeable no mistaking it. But riding the woods and hills around here we never see speeds like that and never had that problem in all the miles we put on so far in our normal riding. If I feel it's a problem I'll cut it but so far it hasn't been. Maybe I haven't mentioned it but I did "massage" the metal at the front of the tunnel for a little extra clearance. Couple spots I couldn't move but most of it was able to gain some clearance.
I can not find the tread !
Can you point me in the right direction ?