Looking into doing a skid set back to my sled got a 136 skid wanna set the skid back to make it a 141 any one got any measurements to help me make this swap?
way back when, i was converting those 136's to 141 or more and changing the geometry to reduce the track's approach angle. in a nutshell, the skid went back 4 5/8 and then the front w arm needed relocated on the rails. been years since i did one and i may still have notes on the dimensions.
what happens with the basic math is the front mounts end up in the steering hoop where it meets the tunnel. by going the extra inches needed to clear the steering hoop the arm needs moved forward on the skid. mathematically, you need to move the skid back 2.5" for the 141 track. measure back from your existing front mount bolts and you will see what i mean. 121-141 were alot easier. the 136ers required much more input.
i will see what i still have laying around for info. not sure what your considering for a 141 track. dont confuse the readily available 3" pitched artic cat 141 tracks for the crap yokos that came on the mtn maxes. think 144 camo if your doing off trail.
what happens with the basic math is the front mounts end up in the steering hoop where it meets the tunnel. by going the extra inches needed to clear the steering hoop the arm needs moved forward on the skid. mathematically, you need to move the skid back 2.5" for the 141 track. measure back from your existing front mount bolts and you will see what i mean. 121-141 were alot easier. the 136ers required much more input.
i will see what i still have laying around for info. not sure what your considering for a 141 track. dont confuse the readily available 3" pitched artic cat 141 tracks for the crap yokos that came on the mtn maxes. think 144 camo if your doing off trail.
Approach angle is my problem. Here goes the story 1997 sx 700 with 2000 sxr skid with rail extension to 136 not sure on approach angle at this time but it does no climb well in powder. No I would have found a newer 141 or even a 144.
i have the 121 conversion numbers around here somewhere, if not, i have my 97 up at the cabin with a 121 relocate to 141 using rail extensions. i should probably confirm dimensions. i believe on that one the setback was 4 3/16 on all the mounts with incremental drops for each.
if your interested in that dimension for the 121, i will measure up that sled this weekend. this move puts you to the 17 degree approach like the 2000 and up geometry. you will just need to decide on what track length along with drivers to figure out your needs for rail extensions.
the 121-136 extensions typically allow only for adding the longer track. leaves alot on the table for performance.
if your interested in that dimension for the 121, i will measure up that sled this weekend. this move puts you to the 17 degree approach like the 2000 and up geometry. you will just need to decide on what track length along with drivers to figure out your needs for rail extensions.
the 121-136 extensions typically allow only for adding the longer track. leaves alot on the table for performance.
Track I have now is 1 3/4 in good shape just wanna fix the approach angle on it. I do Have a set of 136 rails just dont know where to mount it to work with 8th drivers and have 17deg approach angle so yes if you have measurements id love to have them. Thanks
just for clarity, are you doing an oem 136 skid or 121 skid? big difference between the two when it comes to the relocate.
as mentioned, the 136 rails need a bit more massaging to bring it up to 2000+ geometry and honestly i question my notes on this conversion as its been some time since i did one. hands on, i could easily duplicate it. i can get you bang on with the 121 rails.those total like about 95% of my conversions.
pick a track length. you will need that to factor rail extensions.
as mentioned, the 136 rails need a bit more massaging to bring it up to 2000+ geometry and honestly i question my notes on this conversion as its been some time since i did one. hands on, i could easily duplicate it. i can get you bang on with the 121 rails.those total like about 95% of my conversions.
pick a track length. you will need that to factor rail extensions.
Ill go with the 121 skid and rail extensions
from the existing front mount hole you move back 4 3/16" and down measuring off the outside top of the tunnel 5 3/4". this will put the new front mount right behind the steering hoop. from this new mount hole, measure back 11 3/8" and down off the outside top of tunnel 5 3/16". the rear mount is 15 3/4" back from the new center mount and from the inside top of tunnel down 8 3/8. i will also do a provisional hole about 3/4" lower on my brackets, similar to the mounting holes on the 2000 and up mtn max or mtn viper.
you will need backing plates for the front and center mounts. i have always used 1/8" aluminum and aircraft style buck rivets but to each their own. next you will have to factor in the rail extensions for the track your using along with 8t or 9t drivers. i didnt measure my existing extensions as i wasnt sure what track length you were doing. i would suggest a 144 if your going to do it as tracks are more readily available.
a template will be your friend. simply center with a nut and bolt on the original mount with the new mounting locations layed out on the template for the back measures and strike lines inside the tunnel. from there, simply strike cross lines for your down measures along with clamping the drop brackets to the tunnel prior to committing. its easier for me to do than explain, hopefully you get the concept.
you will need backing plates for the front and center mounts. i have always used 1/8" aluminum and aircraft style buck rivets but to each their own. next you will have to factor in the rail extensions for the track your using along with 8t or 9t drivers. i didnt measure my existing extensions as i wasnt sure what track length you were doing. i would suggest a 144 if your going to do it as tracks are more readily available.
a template will be your friend. simply center with a nut and bolt on the original mount with the new mounting locations layed out on the template for the back measures and strike lines inside the tunnel. from there, simply strike cross lines for your down measures along with clamping the drop brackets to the tunnel prior to committing. its easier for me to do than explain, hopefully you get the concept.