Mortagleus
New member
Well today i got to go for my first ride on the SRX i picked up from a buddy who hates winter. 1999 srx 700 disintegrated primary 1000$. Grabbed a donor clutch of a vmax 500 changed my usable pieces over works great. Compression after the sled sitting for nearly a year had low compression 100psi exactly on all 3 cylinders verified with another gauge. Going to check in the morning to see if come up after my 30 minutes test drive. Speedo doesnt work. The clutch engages at 4000 rpm( is that the norm?). Anyways I found it very easy to point the headlight at the stars 
just giving her a little juice. ride was nice especially compared to the old boogy mobiles i'm used to
just giving her a little juice. ride was nice especially compared to the old boogy mobiles i'm used to
Around 4000 is about right. Sounds like suspension is frozen or way out of adjustment. Theres a bunch of grease fittings on it. Speedo is probably the link, a small part where you unscrew cable from axle gear.
I got mine so skis just get very light but not up. Maybe has no straps also. I have a suspension tuning manual for a 98 which is the same if you need advice on settings. This is a great site for any yami info.
I got mine so skis just get very light but not up. Maybe has no straps also. I have a suspension tuning manual for a 98 which is the same if you need advice on settings. This is a great site for any yami info.
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Well today i got to go for my first ride on the SRX i picked up from a buddy who hates winter. 1999 srx 700 disintegrated primary 1000$. Grabbed a donor clutch of a vmax 500 changed my usable pieces over works great. Compression after the sled sitting for nearly a year had low compression 100psi exactly on all 3 cylinders verified with another gauge. Going to check in the morning to see if come up after my 30 minutes test drive. Speedo doesnt work. The clutch engages at 4000 rpm( is that the norm?). Anyways I found it very easy to point the headlight at the stars
I would not ride it anymore until the drive axle bearings are replaced. The speedo not working is a sure sign the bearing is toast and if you ride it much more you may grenade the chain case.
Pop off the speedo drive that covers the bearing (under the secondary) and have a look at the bearing. Post pics if you aren't sure.
Mortagleus
New member
Thank you. I'll check out the bearings this weekend before I go for a ride. I had greased all the fitting before I took her out. Still had lots in there. The ride was fairly smooth and we were driving over a lot frozen slush trailer on Lake couchiching. Checked the powervalves they must have been cleaned already. Wondering if when the clutch grenade if it hit the speedother cable as it cut the rad hose in two. -20 Celsius and started three pulls. HAve to take it easy for the while as haven't really ridden much in almost 15 years. Feel like a rookie all over again.
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You could disconnect the cable from the speedo drive previously mentioned and spin the inner cable looking to see if the speedo works. If it does, remove the speedo drive looking for a broken key which breaks because the axle is no longer centered to the speedo drive because the bearing - shesanogood.
Mortagleus
New member
Hear are pictures of the speedo housing and bearing. Also not sure if anyone can tell me what track is on this looks fairly new an was thinking of studding it.
I've seen worse.
Almost looks like the shaft is spinning on the inner race but hard to tell. If so, the shaft may be buggered up.
The speedo drive is gouged from the shaft but it doesn't look fresh (perhaps failed previously and someone replaced the bearing when they installed the new track).
If you loosen the track to unload the bearing, try moving the shaft up and down. There should be no lateral movement. I'd replace it just 'cause it fugly.
Some here have studded 1 1/4" tracks but the prevailing wisdom is - no studs beyond a 1" track.
Almost looks like the shaft is spinning on the inner race but hard to tell. If so, the shaft may be buggered up.
The speedo drive is gouged from the shaft but it doesn't look fresh (perhaps failed previously and someone replaced the bearing when they installed the new track).
If you loosen the track to unload the bearing, try moving the shaft up and down. There should be no lateral movement. I'd replace it just 'cause it fugly.
Some here have studded 1 1/4" tracks but the prevailing wisdom is - no studs beyond a 1" track.
Devilin AblueDress!
New member
X2 on don't stud it the way it is. By the time you get studs penetrating past the lug they will be dangerously close to the front exchanger, get on the brakes and studs wad up into cooler! If you absolutely have to have studs cut the lugs down to around 1" then stud it.
Mortagleus
New member
Thanks For the information. seems to stop fairly well as is just wanted a little extra stopping power, Think ill leave the track alone.
The track should have the mfg and part number molded into it. The pics are too close but almost looks like a hacksaw track. Second pic looks like speedo cable is twisted up. Maybe cable is kinked or pinched.
As far as studs go, if you decide to do it, figure $2.50 per stud and backer. I have studded alot of tracks but only today did I ever blow out my back studding a track and I don't know how and that was just putting in 48 more in my Arctic Cat. Actually I may have done it lifting rear end on blocks? Not sure.
As far as studs go, if you decide to do it, figure $2.50 per stud and backer. I have studded alot of tracks but only today did I ever blow out my back studding a track and I don't know how and that was just putting in 48 more in my Arctic Cat. Actually I may have done it lifting rear end on blocks? Not sure.
Devildog 1994
New member
Thought I'd throw this in for reference...
When I was buying my first sled, I asked the a-hole FO why the speedo wasn't working, he said that there was a key that breaks every now and then it's an easy fix... This is what I found when I went to put the new key in.
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When you put the new key in, how long did it last? LOL
Were the missing bearing parts in the housing or did he "clean it out" for you? You were able to test drive it like that?
Were the missing bearing parts in the housing or did he "clean it out" for you? You were able to test drive it like that?
Devildog 1994
New member
The new key seems to be holding it in the center for now...
Yea, that's how I knew he was full of sht because all the balls we're gone. Not only did I test drive it, but put about 10 miles on it before I decided to put the new key in.
Yea, that's how I knew he was full of sht because all the balls we're gone. Not only did I test drive it, but put about 10 miles on it before I decided to put the new key in.
I hope I'm reading it wrong - You aren't riding it with that bearing still in there, are you?
Devildog 1994
New member
That answer was aimed at Viktory's question...
Yea, changed it out. Miraculously, the inner race was about to start eating into aluminum but was still chewing its way through the outer race.
Yea, changed it out. Miraculously, the inner race was about to start eating into aluminum but was still chewing its way through the outer race.
I jinxed myself with that horrible joke. Go look at my contagious problem thread! No balls were in there either. Thats the last time I make a bad joke! LOL
This happened at 5pm Tuesday. Speedo stopped working, drove home and this is what I found. Nothing fell out when I took gear off and it never made a sound. At least the outer race is still there. I ordered the parts today and was stumped on something I saw in diagram, on track drive 1 it says connector and points to end of shaft. It is not the link, thats somewhere else like meters or something. What is the "connector"? For $6, I ordered it too.
This happened at 5pm Tuesday. Speedo stopped working, drove home and this is what I found. Nothing fell out when I took gear off and it never made a sound. At least the outer race is still there. I ordered the parts today and was stumped on something I saw in diagram, on track drive 1 it says connector and points to end of shaft. It is not the link, thats somewhere else like meters or something. What is the "connector"? For $6, I ordered it too.
Attachments
Maybe the speedo drive insert that that presses into the end of the shaft?
Yours looks like it's been FUBAR for a while.
Yours looks like it's been FUBAR for a while.
I tried to get movement out of shaft 6 weeks ago while skid was out and it was tight but I've really been pounding on it this year. I didn't hear a thing when it happened. Track alignment was fine and everything. No "extra braking". Thats why I was surprised to see it that gone. This happened the day after reading this post. The strange part was OEM is cheaper then aftermarket. Then again, It STILL hasen't shipped yet.
EotS1
Member
Yeah, the part called "connector" on the track drive 1 diagram is definitely the insert that goes into the end of the drive shaft. And it's a good thing you ordered it, because by the looks of your picture you're definitely going to need it.