Heel Clicker Clutch blow up?

RB2001SRX700

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Hey guys Had a couple of questions on this. Over the weekend I had a Heel Clicker setup explode. :o| After looking the sled over I found that the chain was loose. Would that cause the clutch to grenade? Or was it the setup. I had what was called for for the clutch setup for the roller. 4.2 heel 3.5 mid and 5.3 tip. I have to check my notes but close to this. secondary was a supertorque roller which will be for sale if anyone wants it. 42/34 helix. silver spring at 60 wrap. Any idea's what went wrong? Thanks guys. when I find my notes I will update the weights. It was a setup straight from the book. On a side note the only reason the apex beat me was I blew up the belt and clutch......lol Other then that we were side by side........lol
 

nope, lose chain had nothing to do with it. you need to find out what these were. the yamaha 40-10yb i believe was the correct #. there were different h/c that did cause clutch failure. possibley that secondary might have had some problem here. 3:16 (yammie tony)
 
Heat cracks? Clutch sheave fatigue? If you have the 40-10s it should not be a problem if you:

-Keep the clutches clean
-Don't have a very bad set up (which you don't)
-Don't use it for heavy towing.
-Check regularly for stress or heat cracks.

I've had them for 9 years and have had no problems.
 
Heat cracks? Clutch sheave fatigue? If you have the 40-10s it should not be a problem if you:

-Keep the clutches clean
-Don't have a very bad set up (which you don't)
-Don't use it for heavy towing.
-Check regularly for stress or heat cracks.



I've had them for 9 years and have had no problems.


All good cleaned clutches no cracks no towing. I believe like Yammiegod3:16 suggested the secondary clutch. Anyways I can't use them now anyways. the clutch weight busted itself. Back to the 8 DN-20's loaded. That one hurt a little bit in the wallet. down a primary and secondary.
 
You have any pictures of the weights that you used, I believe the heel clickers hammertimes was made the swinging heel those were the F uped ones
 
No swinging heel. They were sold to me as 40-10Y's. Older setup. I wonder if it was the material they were constructed from. Looked like pop metal. I will try and post pics this weekend if I get the chance.
 
`They did not interfere with heel on sheave at full shift?


No they did not touch anywhere. I did make sure of that. I filed down ( very little ) on the sheave. I went through everything on it to make sure it was right. I don't know how old the weights were when I got them. They were older for sure but could not see any defects.
 
without seeing the pics of the weight and the clutch hard to tell what went on but its not common. I would call super torquer and talk to Randy, hes pretty good about stuff.
 
I have seen guys on here say some of the first ones where soft they used cheaper steel. See pics of one that the heel hole chipped right off.

http://www.totallyamaha.net/forums/threads/87587-Heel-Clicker

All the heels look like that now. and one broke in half. And I will call Randy and see what might have happened. I know guys love these weight and now I'm scared to buy another set because of what happened. Thanks again everyone Will post pics this weekend.
 
is the belt just broke in half? or is it shredded?

likely you blew the belt and the weights broke as a secondary item as the clutch slammed shut when the belt broke (all the way closed hitting the moveable shaeve against the stationary sheave)and then open when you let off the gas, breaking the weights. When you run at high speeds for a longer distance its the belt speed that plays a role. Lots of guys break belts on topend , it has to do with gearing and clutching combo, as it pertains to the belt speed.

the stock weights are also made of brittle metal, they are very hard metal,powder metal thats forged. some guys break those while pounding on them to change rivets.
 
is the belt just broke in half? or is it shredded?

likely you blew the belt and the weights broke as a secondary item as the clutch slammed shut when the belt broke (all the way closed hitting the moveable shaeve against the stationary sheave)and then open when you let off the gas, breaking the weights. When you run at high speeds for a longer distance its the belt speed that plays a role. Lots of guys break belts on topend , it has to do with gearing and clutching combo, as it pertains to the belt speed.

the stock weights are also made of brittle metal, they are very hard metal,powder metal thats forged. some guys break those while pounding on them to change rivets.


Shredded the belt and broke in half. I did check to see if the weights would come out far enough to go passed the roller and it did not. This was with no belt or spring. But I can see where with the force of the clutch where it got one of them to pass the roller and that would be the reason why it broke the one arm and not the others.
 
you bought these used, maybe previous owner dropped one?

Yes used. There again do you really know what you are buying? Costly chance. But I am not one to blame someone else. It happened and time to move on. It could have been something I did but I did more research on these weights then any others before installing them. Could have been the belt for all I know that caused all of this damage.
 
i have a clutch here that blew apart on a srx on the tar with h/c. i will see if the weights are or whats left of them are still in it. and no was not on mine thank god. 3:16 (yammie tony)
 


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