Have a 99 SRX 700,the block may be a 98,owned it for 8 years,my son ran it out of oil about 7 years ago due to oil sensor failure,it damaged the pto cylinder rod bearing and piston, cylinder was junk,and the other two had slight damage,got a used block and crank,and the topend parts,repaired it, it was bullitproof,holding it wide open for 2 miles on the lake,aggressive trail riding, Fogged it every spring,holding the oil cable open,always went through the carbs and power valves,every fall, "So the story starts here,I sold it to someone I dont know,he lives in a nearby town, on a chain of about 8 lakes that connect to the Fox River,at first I was getting texts on how good it ran,then one day I get a text saying it knocking,He brings it over, "Not Good" So I tear into it finding the Exact problem as the motor my son toasted 7 years ago,only this time the rod was loose enough cracking the case. I built a Motor on the bench with a rebuilt crank with a matching case, I spent one full day,being very carefull,making shure it was right,new crank seals, locktite,Yamabond,check valves,clearences alright, everything torqued,came out nice.I went through the carbs,could find nothing wrong.I always drain all the oil out on anything that has major engine damage,it wasn't Yamalube,blew through the oil tank to see if there was an obstruction,put in about a quart or less of Yamahalube, I start all my motors on premix for the first time,I have a small lawnmower tank that works great,strap it with a bungie. The motor runs perfect again,just like it did before, "One Big Problem Though" OIL LIGHT NOT WORKING,just a bad conection, I Really Need some advice why this Motor went down, Is this related to a midrange burndown,I found ropes and a belt for something else in the trunk,as he may have towed another sled,I read that just adding picks could twist cranks,he may have run it out of oil,I am not shure I am getting the whole story !!! Any Help Ideas, Input, anything, would be greatly appreciated,
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if your blowing the rod bearing that tells me your getting detonation in that cylinder, it will eventually beat the bearing to death and cause failure. So since the engines cases have been swapped that removes any problem with stuff in the case lines and oiling problems. Looks like the carb rack is still the common denominator between the engines, so wheres the needles set at? I ask about needles because obviously the mains are ok if you can hold it wide open for 2 miles, its the trail riding that your on the needles.
roudyroy1
Active member
Most engines I've seen that go down from oiling lose the mains first and show almost equal damage across all cylinders and bearings. If your cylinders were okay I would look somewhere else. Like mr viper said.
Doubtful your getting the whole story. Hot day, no snow on the exchangers, throttle pinned wide open for miles repeatedly, bad gas.
Thank You for the replies, The needles are on the third clip with the 2 washers on the bottom,I changed it to 1 washer on top and 1 washer on the bottom,a little tricky at first,only found one washer,they stick together well, am I going the right way,I have read a lot of confusing stuff,raise the clip, drop the needle,it needs to be one or the other, "actual needle" down = richer and up = leaner all three cylinders had detonation, srxr700, I have to agree with you, the guy would rather buy a bottle of Vodka than put good gas in his sled.
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bADa$$ SRX
New member
I think your going the wrong way with the needles from what I read. You want to actually raise the needle, so that it sits higher in the carb, to make it run richer.
shaggyzr2
Active member
Dropping the needle down leans it out.
Drop the clip to raise the needle.
Thanks I got it now, I went to the tech pages and it shows clip positions,I took it from 3 to 2.5 when 3.5 was where I should have set them