Hey People,
I just got my viper ready for the season. Cleaned the carbs and power valves and checked it over. Started up no problems and ran fine. Took it across the field today and when I let off the throttle to turn around. It bogged until the engine got back to idle. Then ran great again.until you let off throttle. Took it back apart to check carbs and power valves everything seems fine. Sound like a pump problem??? Or let me know what else to check.
Thanks!!!
I just got my viper ready for the season. Cleaned the carbs and power valves and checked it over. Started up no problems and ran fine. Took it across the field today and when I let off the throttle to turn around. It bogged until the engine got back to idle. Then ran great again.until you let off throttle. Took it back apart to check carbs and power valves everything seems fine. Sound like a pump problem??? Or let me know what else to check.
Thanks!!!
nope, not fuel pump its the throttle cable is adjusted too tight and your engaging the tors system, loosen up the throttle csble adjuster it needs alot of slack in the cable to let the throttle switch engage and the carb switch engage and not trip the system, very common mistake, easy fix too....
you can have the throttle cable adjuster all the way threaded down and it will still open the carbs up to full throttle, alot of people make this mistake and fight with the tors or by pass it and it really is a safety item thats very important. Keep it hooked up if you dont want your sled to take off without you on it!
you can have the throttle cable adjuster all the way threaded down and it will still open the carbs up to full throttle, alot of people make this mistake and fight with the tors or by pass it and it really is a safety item thats very important. Keep it hooked up if you dont want your sled to take off without you on it!
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Thank you Sir! I will do that tomorrow!
Ok I got it on my stand and adjusted the throttle loos as I could. It still did it. I also disconnected the tors just to see what happens. Did the same thing. Now I'm really lost!
Did you plug the connectors together on the wiring harness to bypass the TORS?
Yes on both ends. Still didn't matter. Do you know if the tors has any oil in it? I took the pads off of the handle bars and it looked like oil was around the throttle lever block. Could have been water as wel
it might be the switch up at the throttle block, take your finger and hold the pin of the pivot in youll see it moves in a slot when you move the lever and holding it in see if it can rev up and not stumble.
theres 2 switchs in the system, the carb rack and also the throttle lever switch
theres 2 switchs in the system, the carb rack and also the throttle lever switch
I did that and got it to stumble. Found that in the book. The pivot moves like it should it stumbles one way and I can re v it up the other way but then I have to wait for the Rpms to go down
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If the one in the rack is bad, would it matter if it was plugged in or not?
Closed throttle you should have continuity at the carb switch and no continuity at the throttle block switch. This is why when you "by-pass" the tors switch at the carb, you need to plug the two barrel connectors from the harness side to each other to complete the curcuit. Just unplugging the barrel connectors is like simulating an open/faulty carb switch.
Sounds like you're kind of going in circles. Its not clear to me from reading that all was plugged in when you went loose on the cable.
I would suggest starting from scratch by plugging everything back together, start and warm the sled, adjust the idle speed and then shut it off. Then push the throttle lightly until you feel resistance from the cable to see that you have at least 1-2mm freeplay between the throttle lever and the block before the cable starts to open the carb. If not, turn the cable in at the carb rack until you do then tighen the jamb nut.
The freeplay adjustment should be the last adjustment made since adjusting the idle speed will affect freeplay.