Can some one post all the secondary clutch settings for this machine and what degrees it sets the spring to?and what does I higher or lower degree of spring twist do to the machine.
I have letters A B C and number 1 2 3 4 on the inside of my secondary.
The book calls for an a-2 setting for a 94 600. I think a2 is 50 degrees? And I think b2 is 60 degrees? Can some one please confirm what all the settings would do?
A1-?
A2-50 degrees?
A3-?
A4-?
B1-?
B2-60 degrees?
B3-?
B4-?
C1-?
C2-?
C3-?
C4-?
I'm trying to adjust my clutches so they work better. I have the gyt pipes on which I believe threw everything off.
I have letters A B C and number 1 2 3 4 on the inside of my secondary.
The book calls for an a-2 setting for a 94 600. I think a2 is 50 degrees? And I think b2 is 60 degrees? Can some one please confirm what all the settings would do?
A1-?
A2-50 degrees?
A3-?
A4-?
B1-?
B2-60 degrees?
B3-?
B4-?
C1-?
C2-?
C3-?
C4-?
I'm trying to adjust my clutches so they work better. I have the gyt pipes on which I believe threw everything off.
spring specific. depending on what color spring your running will determine the settings as the tang on the spring is clocked differently per color for the most part. and then you get into the spring diameter.
in a nutshell, c is the most soft and b being the stiffest. theres 10* difference between each letter. in other words, if c is 10, a will be 20 and b will be 30. and then there is typically 30* between each 1-4. in other words, if 1 is 10, 2 will be 40, 3 will be 70, etc, depending on a,b,c and spring color.
you can easily chart your own diagram by simply making a box graph 3 high and 4 wide. a,b,c down the side and 1,2,3,4 across the top. start simple by using 10 in the first c box, 20 in the a, and 30 in the b. in the c-1 column, write in 10. a-1 would be 20, and b-1 would be 30. simply add 30 to each of the remaining columns 2-4 in each line to give yourself an idea of the wrap angle. so c-2 becomes 40, a-2 will be 50, and b-2 is now 60. these are just arbitrary numbers as first you need to know what the spring color is or at least the clocking of the tang and wire diameter.
however, just to make things more difficult, there are a few springs that upset this equation. those i dont remember, i just recall a butt kicking applying the basic principals as one or two available springs went the opposite way.
a lower set angle will quicken the upshift and load the engine more effectively lowering your rpms. a higher angle will make your backshift quicker but hold the the shift longer theoretically increasing your rpms through the shift range.
adding pipes shouldnt have thrown off the secondary if the primary was working correctly and you shouldnt be mass tuning with the secondary. adjust the primary and fine tune with the secondary for snow conditions and ambient weather changes.
in a nutshell, c is the most soft and b being the stiffest. theres 10* difference between each letter. in other words, if c is 10, a will be 20 and b will be 30. and then there is typically 30* between each 1-4. in other words, if 1 is 10, 2 will be 40, 3 will be 70, etc, depending on a,b,c and spring color.
you can easily chart your own diagram by simply making a box graph 3 high and 4 wide. a,b,c down the side and 1,2,3,4 across the top. start simple by using 10 in the first c box, 20 in the a, and 30 in the b. in the c-1 column, write in 10. a-1 would be 20, and b-1 would be 30. simply add 30 to each of the remaining columns 2-4 in each line to give yourself an idea of the wrap angle. so c-2 becomes 40, a-2 will be 50, and b-2 is now 60. these are just arbitrary numbers as first you need to know what the spring color is or at least the clocking of the tang and wire diameter.
however, just to make things more difficult, there are a few springs that upset this equation. those i dont remember, i just recall a butt kicking applying the basic principals as one or two available springs went the opposite way.
a lower set angle will quicken the upshift and load the engine more effectively lowering your rpms. a higher angle will make your backshift quicker but hold the the shift longer theoretically increasing your rpms through the shift range.
adding pipes shouldnt have thrown off the secondary if the primary was working correctly and you shouldnt be mass tuning with the secondary. adjust the primary and fine tune with the secondary for snow conditions and ambient weather changes.
Ok well I'm not really sure how to tune a primary. By the way I think I'm using a pink secondary spring. I feel like the machine is shifting to fast, so should I adjust the secondary? I would like to get my revs up higher. What should I do?
first thing i would do is deem both clutches to be in top condition. buttons, bushings, rollers, etc. from there, what are you lacking in rpm's? what are you using for a belt? the gyt twins should run the same rpm as the stock original single pipe. you can alter engagement with the use of spring shims in the primary.
where are you at now with rpm and what settings are you using both primary and secondary? spring colors, roller diameters, helix number and setting?
where are you at now with rpm and what settings are you using both primary and secondary? spring colors, roller diameters, helix number and setting?
Right now as for secondary settings I'm at a2. 50 degrees twist angle. Pink spring. 5mm wire diameter. 39 angle helix. (stock). Primary everything checks out good, rollers, weights. Everything is stock in the primary. Weights 8ay with 17.2 rivets. Spring color l-y-l.
Seems to rev around 7600 rpm full throttle, but revs really low and kind of bogs until it shifts out at like 50 km/h. I think at 50 km/h I'm revving at like 5500 or less. Then when I give a bit of gas it up shifts like 1500 rpm. It's not a smooth acceleration. Throttle is very touchy. Just moving it a bit makes a big difference in response. Not sure but shouldn't I be revving higher than 7600?
Also I feel like my engine is always running rich, but I don't think it should since I rejetted. When I put the gyt pipes on I put 2 q8 nozzles and 2 153.8 main jets. Needle is set what I think is 2.5. The clip in the middle and a shim on top and below the clip.
Seems to rev around 7600 rpm full throttle, but revs really low and kind of bogs until it shifts out at like 50 km/h. I think at 50 km/h I'm revving at like 5500 or less. Then when I give a bit of gas it up shifts like 1500 rpm. It's not a smooth acceleration. Throttle is very touchy. Just moving it a bit makes a big difference in response. Not sure but shouldn't I be revving higher than 7600?
Also I feel like my engine is always running rich, but I don't think it should since I rejetted. When I put the gyt pipes on I put 2 q8 nozzles and 2 153.8 main jets. Needle is set what I think is 2.5. The clip in the middle and a shim on top and below the clip.