KingSpence
New member
1982 ss440, ran like a top, pulls hard, awesome sled overall. I had some slight bogging issues a week back and decided to yank the carb and give it a clean. There's was a fair bit of gunk inside, it needed a cleaning. Upon reinstallation I noticed my already cracked airbox also had quite the mouse home inside it. I forcibly removed it from the sled, deciding to run a pod filter for added ease of carb removal similar to the setup on my old gs340.
It now runs like garbage. Bogs down when given throttle, when I let off with slight throttle it pulls like a bat out of hell the bogs again. It needs a rejet. Any tips on what I should start with? I can't be the only one who's removed their airbox, but I'm regretting it now.
Thanks!
It now runs like garbage. Bogs down when given throttle, when I let off with slight throttle it pulls like a bat out of hell the bogs again. It needs a rejet. Any tips on what I should start with? I can't be the only one who's removed their airbox, but I'm regretting it now.
Thanks!
Throttle Junkie35
New member
Throw the air box back on. You will be rewared with consistant performance.
KingSpence
New member
Unfortunately, the only way to remove an airbox from an SS440 without removing the seat and gas tank results in more than one piece. Actually, more than five pieces.
Guess I'm learning this lesson the hard way.
Guess I'm learning this lesson the hard way.
Throttle Junkie35
New member
Ya, they can be a pain in the rear, however most sleds run better and more consistant with an air box. They also help keep water and snow out of the engine. I ran K and N's for one season. I re-installed the air box after my crank case filled with water and froze twice. There were areas in this particular sled that melting snow would drip on to the pto side filter, completely saturate the filter with water then run down into the engine. This would happen after riding while it was snowing out. The sled never ran as good as it did with the air box on either.
NorthofSixty
Member
SS440 rejet for pod filter
I am just finishing modifying the airbox on my 81 SS440.
I was fed up with having to clean the belt material that gets sucked in and eventually plugs some of the smaller jets. The final straw was when I blew a piston on the first run of the season after about 30 seconds. The sled had not had much run time the year before so I thought I was safe. When I pulled it apart the carb was covered in a thick coating of fine black belt material.
I ran it last year with just the K&N and no air box and the carb was completely clean this season when I checked. I had to run a 170 main but even after drilling out the slow jet to the max I could not get enough fuel to completely get rid of the low/mid range bog.
This year to fix the problem I pretty much gutted the air box and installed the K&N filter inside. The one I bought clamped right on the white connecting tube that extends into the air box from the carb boot.
I had to re-jet the Kehin butterfly to a 165 main and started with a 92 slow jet. My plug color is perfect at minus 10 deg. C and most of my midrange bog is gone but I am at 2-1/2 turns out on the idle screw which gives me no room for running at lower temperatures. I am going to upsize the slow jet to a 98. This should finally eliminate the low end bog while getting me back to 1 to 1-1/2 turns out on the idle screw.
The only way to really be sure is to check you plug color and keep re-jetting until you get it right. I did not change the size of the opening in the air box.
For colder than minus 20 deg. C I expect have to upsize the main to a 170.
Hope this helps but you'll need to be patient and start conservative on your jet sizing and come down. I do not think you will be able to get rid of the mid range bog without an air box installed.
I am just finishing modifying the airbox on my 81 SS440.
I was fed up with having to clean the belt material that gets sucked in and eventually plugs some of the smaller jets. The final straw was when I blew a piston on the first run of the season after about 30 seconds. The sled had not had much run time the year before so I thought I was safe. When I pulled it apart the carb was covered in a thick coating of fine black belt material.
I ran it last year with just the K&N and no air box and the carb was completely clean this season when I checked. I had to run a 170 main but even after drilling out the slow jet to the max I could not get enough fuel to completely get rid of the low/mid range bog.
This year to fix the problem I pretty much gutted the air box and installed the K&N filter inside. The one I bought clamped right on the white connecting tube that extends into the air box from the carb boot.
I had to re-jet the Kehin butterfly to a 165 main and started with a 92 slow jet. My plug color is perfect at minus 10 deg. C and most of my midrange bog is gone but I am at 2-1/2 turns out on the idle screw which gives me no room for running at lower temperatures. I am going to upsize the slow jet to a 98. This should finally eliminate the low end bog while getting me back to 1 to 1-1/2 turns out on the idle screw.
The only way to really be sure is to check you plug color and keep re-jetting until you get it right. I did not change the size of the opening in the air box.
For colder than minus 20 deg. C I expect have to upsize the main to a 170.
Hope this helps but you'll need to be patient and start conservative on your jet sizing and come down. I do not think you will be able to get rid of the mid range bog without an air box installed.
NorthofSixty
Member
Just an update. Now running a 98 slow jet with a 165 main with the gutted airbox and KN filter inside. Pretty much eliminated low end bog and much improved mid-range. Smooth power from engagement at 3400 rpm to full shifting at 7000. Plug color bang on.
On the SS440 I always found you can do a quick check on the mid-range power by fully locking the brake and quickly going to WOT. If the engine will quickly pull hard enough that that the brake can't hold as it revs through the mid-range I find it will generally perform pretty well. Not a test you want to hold very long or repeat often as it is hard on belts I but find it a pretty reliable indicator of whether my mid-range tuning is close on this sled. If the engine bogs and can't over come the brake I usually try up-sizing the slow jet.
On the SS440 I always found you can do a quick check on the mid-range power by fully locking the brake and quickly going to WOT. If the engine will quickly pull hard enough that that the brake can't hold as it revs through the mid-range I find it will generally perform pretty well. Not a test you want to hold very long or repeat often as it is hard on belts I but find it a pretty reliable indicator of whether my mid-range tuning is close on this sled. If the engine bogs and can't over come the brake I usually try up-sizing the slow jet.