Is it alright to replace yamaha bolts/nuts with others found at most hardware stores?

Y

Yamaha99MM700

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I'm new at this so sorry if it's a dumb question. I need a couple bolts to put my skid together. Can I find these at a hardware store if they fit? It's a '99 mm 700 btw. need to get this bracket on to get my sled going again and winters almost over! and partzilla can take up to a month to ship parts.. Thanks.
 
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I have used non oem bolts on mine. Just have to make sure they are the correct size. Most of the bolts in the suspension are 10mm. Grade 10.9
 
If you want stainless steel, they're aren't many grades to choose from, actually only 1 at the Ace I go to. Much more expensive but pay for them selves in the long run. For my skid swap I am doing, I went through the donor skid and replaced most bolts with stainless and it was $60.
 
Just use something on the threads for stainless bolts. Anti-seize or even Loctite. Just so it lubricates the threads a little when you go to take them apart. Stainless likes to gall the threads then you have to cut the bolts out. Not fun. I have seen this a lot. We tried to tell this to a guy putting a cover on a silo outside and he would not listen. Guess what he had to take the bolts out a couple days later and after cutting over half the bolts out he used anti-seize when he put it back on.LOL We had to give him a hard time after that.
 
Any time different materials, such as a steel bolt getting threaded into something not steel, you'll need to provide a barier between the two. Anti-seize for something you plan to remove and Locktite or paint for everything else. If nothing is used, dissimilar metal corrosion will occurr. And the weaker of the two metals is usually the loser.
 
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Sorry, should have explained better, I was mainly talking stainless bolts with stainless nuts. Someday I might get the hang of talking through words on a screen. LOL
 
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Viktory2k1 said:
In a few days they froze?
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Just stainless nuts on stainless bolts. It can happen after it is tightened and then try to loosen. I think the friction between the two can make a burr in between the bolt and nut and then it locks up. Over tightening or using an impact is usually what causes it. I have had it happen before the nut even gets tight. That was on 1/4" bolts though. Not sure if all grades do it but I always was using the 316 SS.
 
I don't know what the grade is on the ones I bought but pretty strong. I think there equal to grade 5(they are standard bolts on skid) I anti-seized the ones that thread into aluminum but not nut and bolt assembly. Its called galvanic corrosion.
 
Should be good. Google stainless bolts galling. They pretty much call it cold welding the bolt and nut together.
 
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