Hey guys I tried to look up what this will do for me and not coming up with much. I know it will give me a 1.74 ratio but what does that mean for the SRX. I might be wrong but this should do the same as gearing down on the top 1-2 teeth right. Just saves me the expense of buying a 68 link chain. Should I expect more hole shot or top end from it? Sled is setup with 8DN-20 5.5 tip 4.5 mid WWW primary Pioneer 53/45 helix with a green at 70 wrap. Track has 144 down the middle 1.080 studs. Transfer rods. I have not got it on hard pack to really see what it will do but on Ice after the blizzard I created from spinning I was able to hit 98.4 on GPS. Not sure distance nothing was marked out but I would say some wheres in the 1000 feet mark for sure. I might add chisels or maybe the mega-bites from woody's. Which would be better? 80% trail. I would guess mega-bites. Thanks for any info guys happy sledding.
I'm no racer by any means but I know how mine works with the 1.075 Woodys studs in it and I am inclined to pull them out and put in 1.175 studs.I raced a bud of mine with a Mach Z on ice last weekend and once my sled quit spinning it got up and went but by that time the race was pretty much over,and I have to think that if I had the longer studs it would have been a different result.
in lamen terms it will gain more low to midrange pull and have less topend pull. When you gear a sled down you also will have more problems with traction on snow as its easier to spin the track the lower the gearing is because your removing load from the engine, this why it will change your rpm on your clutching because its less load=more rpm from engine. So, youll need to address the rear suspension set up if your going to gear it down, and fine tune your clutch to your rpm.
usually one sets up the sled gearing and clutching for the riding they do 90% of thime, so if you run tight trails and dont do alot of wide open lake racing then gearing it down would be better suited. If you run wide open groomed trails with lots of wide open straights with lake crossings then gearing it down would be the wrong way to go.
usually one sets up the sled gearing and clutching for the riding they do 90% of thime, so if you run tight trails and dont do alot of wide open lake racing then gearing it down would be better suited. If you run wide open groomed trails with lots of wide open straights with lake crossings then gearing it down would be the wrong way to go.
Thanks guys. My brother in law has the 1.175 in his track I might change as well to those. You do have to run the track tighter then normal but I believe the out come would be better on ice. I am thinking the mega-bites would act like a chisel but still be effective as a trail stud. My brother had a srx back in 01. Brand new and we chiseled that track. Let me tell you with out changing anything but the limiter strap length that thing would jump out from under you on the ice. Thats when I fell in love with the SRX sleds. I guess before I change gearing maybe I will address the lack of traction and suspension setup. I do like flying across the lake from time to time. Reading Staggs65 post about the turbo'd viper makes me rethink about getting one. Has anyone on here tried the mega-bites? and what were your results good or bad. Thanks again
YAMMIEGOD3:16
Active member
more acceleration, tad less top speed. get there faster. lol. 3:16 (yammie tony)
Never like 23/40 in my srx
What did you like lol...
I seen some one had a 37 on the bottom? Must be for more top end less grunt out of the hole? Would a 22 top 40 bottom be about the same as a 23/38? Just looking not to bend the chain to much. Less resistance.
TopGunnSrx
New member
Im running 24/38 in mine with HC's and a 54-37 Dalton stock spring. It pulls hard in the tight trails and still stretches those legs, was thinking on dropping the lower 1 tooth if I can, my light weight frees up a few extra ponies for me lol