Viktory2k1
VIP Member
Well, my parts for drive bearing didn't show Monday so I decided to do a little maintenance to sled. I pulled the PVs expecting some really bad ones because of the posts I read about amsoil interceptor which I have run in here since I got it. Last time they were out, they weren't bad. Today, they didn't even look like they were used unless I am way off on how clean a clean pv should be. I just wiped them with a rag and stuck them back in. Then I went to adjust them, something which I've never done. I made sure the servo worked, it does so I choked it until the servo backed off and shut it down and marked the servo to housing. #1, the lock nut wasn't even tight and the pv housing was at probably 1/4" out instead of 2.5mm I read on here that they should be, the other 2 the nut was tight but the adjustment was way off. The cable adjusters were screwed in all but maybe a turn or 2. I did pull the servo a few times and had to reset it. I didn't want to try to turn it by hand, sounds like an instant new servo if I tried to so I did it the right way. I set them all to 2.5mm at the cover with servo ccw until it stops. Now the cable adjusters are about half and half with the threads. I ran it in the little strip of snow left and didn't seem to run any different. It was my first time doing the adjusting so that's why I am posting about it. As far as the cleanliness, still not sure. Is it possible to never have to clean them? I have pics of the tops and bottoms. The ports looked nice too. Am I looking at these wrong? This is what they looked like when I took them out. A rag took the carbon off with a few rubs.
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edunn69
VIP Member
Those aren't too bad, look like low miles.
It's easier to mark the servo when it moves to the correct position because it will always wants to pull back. I would mark the servo and then put a vice grip on it (very, very lightly) with a towel. Be sure not to go too tight or you can brake the servo wheel. Once they're on there, it's much easier to see if it turns and you can make the small corrections very easily.
It's easier to mark the servo when it moves to the correct position because it will always wants to pull back. I would mark the servo and then put a vice grip on it (very, very lightly) with a towel. Be sure not to go too tight or you can brake the servo wheel. Once they're on there, it's much easier to see if it turns and you can make the small corrections very easily.
snomofo
VIP Lifetime Member
snip, #1, the lock nut wasnt even tight and probably 1/4" out instead of 2.5mm I read on here that they should be, The other 2 the nut was tight but way off. snip.
You're checking the adjustment gap at the PV housing to cable end housing, right?
Maybe I'm reading it wrong, but your comment above suggests you're measuring the 2.5mm at the servo housing.
You won't hurt the servo turning the wheel by hand.
I see you have the pipes off. That's one of the reasons I energize the servo with the test connector rather then idling down.
drew24
New member
Those look pretty clean. I have come to the conclusion I had other problems contributing to the carbon buildup when I was running the amzoil. The plug caps are one example. I read that the same as snomofo as far as the way you adjusted the valves. The 2.5mm is in between where the 2 bolts are on the pv housing (where the orange silicone is in the picture) with the servo in the position it turns to when idled down. Also make sure the cable end spins and not the cable at the servo otherwise the cable twists up and you get nowhere.
Cooper0809
New member
Those look clean! What is the orange stuff on the valve housing? Please don't tell me it's gasket maker...
rx1jim
New member
I find I can get a few cleanings of the valves on a set of gaskets. The cost of the OEM gaskets add up if you change them all every few cleanings so I bought some good quality gasket material and made several inexpensive sets in 30 min.. Avoid using the RTV silicone and other gasket makers. Cleaner and neater to make low cost replacement gaskets. Also, replace the caps screws when they start to get rounded off, cheap insurance against a PIA problem.
Jim
Jim
Viktory2k1
VIP Member
I measured where that sealant is, I did word that weird. I had the pipes off for cleaning the pv's and put back on for the adjusting. I did mark it with a sharpie but a light clamping would have helped with "c" clamp vise grip. I turned it twice and the second time I didn't even notice until I looked at the mark. It sure turns easy cw but I didn't want to try the other way if its a worm gear in there. If I did turn it by hand, would I be able to turn it past the mark I made when it stopped on its own? The cable didn't spin with the adjuster. The part with the orange sealant was held on with 4mm allen machine screws, are those the ones you replace? They seemed fine. I never took those covers off before, I only took the whole assembly off for cleaning and the motor swap(I think). That is a silicone based sealer, I could smell it and there were gaskets in there also. Edunn69, thats the way they looked last year too when I took them out. I don't know exactly how many miles I put on that sled this season but I lost 2 weeks waiting for my bearing parts for the driveshaft. I would guess 500 or how ever many miles to go through a gallon of oil. I ran out of oil so I bought Klotz after reading about the pvs getting carboned up. It has a very "unique" smell to the exhaust. I only ran it in the wildcat so far. Smells like a cross between an old lady, Kleenix, and snuggles dryer sheets. Oh, I just remembered I have those gaskets somewhere. I bought a whole engine set and I don't know where it went. The this that baffles me is how does the cable pull through those valves? Are they that brittle? That servo has that much power? I seems by the way it looks that it would take about 20 pounds of pull to rip the cable right through the end of the valve. I sure hope we get another snowfall as I have many things I have to test before the season is over. It was 51 on tuesday. I will edit the original post to get rid of the confusion. Thanks for the input. I just edited the post and reread the replies, edunn69, you use the vise grip to just see if the wheel turns right? I thought you meant to clamp the wheel so it doesn't turn. I don't plan on looking at them for a year. Oh wait, I want some porting done, i'll have to see them again.
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edunn69
VIP Member
500 isn't a lot of miles of you're running it, not sitting idle all the time.
With the vice grips, I put them on and point them at a reference so I can see if it moves. It's very easy to see them move out at the end of the handle. You can readjust them at any time and the servo will move either direction anywhere you need to put it.
With the vice grips, I put them on and point them at a reference so I can see if it moves. It's very easy to see them move out at the end of the handle. You can readjust them at any time and the servo will move either direction anywhere you need to put it.
Viktory2k1
VIP Member
We only had a good amount of snow for 3 weeks and 1 of those weeks, I was waiting for parts. The trails were only open for 2 weeks. Those were very hard miles though. Not a good winter snow wise. I'm hoping for 1 more good snow but its suppose to be 66 tomorrow or friday. Thanks for the tip!