Track angle in deeper snow, myth or true?

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phazerdeelux

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Added 2" drop brackets to my 1988 phazer and shortened front limiter strap all the way in hopes of getting less steep track angle for better performance in deep snow.
First storm out, about 2 feet of fluffy, light powder, sled seemed to do horribly and got stuck a lot, and whenever I stopped momentum.
Next storm, 3 feet of fluffy, light powder, sled excelled in it, and could climb up and out of a hole when stopped. Got off sled and noticed front strap had snapped, making angles much steeper.
Why did it do better like this? I thought less steep angle was ideal? And what bad can I do not replacing snapped strap? Rode rest of season like this no issues, and it was a brand new strap at beginning of season, don't want to replace it. Does it play a big role?
 
your adding ALOT of ski pressure doing that which is why you got stuck so much. Keep the strap on as your front track shock can be damaged without it. need to balance limiting strap with front skid spring preload to find best results.
 
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Replace it, but keep it more on the loose side. I loosened mine off by one hole and it works a lot better in the powder.
 
I think you have the answer. Pulling the track up into the tunnel is not going to work well in deep snow. I would not feel comfortable running it without a strap. What happened to the original? The track tension is probably too tight now if you have not reset it. With no limiter, you may get rapid wear of the slides at the front bend.
 
Drop brackets do absolutely no good. As someone stated earlier, you pretty much added a lead weight to the front of the sled in doing so. This will cause you to plow snow instead of ride up on top of it. I bet it was awful squirrly on a semi loose trail and it probably darted almost uncontrollably on hard trail. If you really want to ride on top of the snow, loosen your front limiter strap to the most extened setting and remove your drop brackets. Trust me on this.
 
Drop brackets are fine if you need to create a little more room for a deeper lug track. As long as you don't go too much it should be fine. I've got 2-2.5" drop brackets on my enticer only because I needed more room for the 1.25 track...which kept on hitting the tunnel. Believe me there's not much room under there on an enticer. It actually helps get through the deep stuff, as your tunnel won't be dragging in the snow as bad. I wouldn't go any more than 2.5 drop though.
 
yeah im not arguing the drop brackets lol, only track approach angle. The brackets were best thing I ever did to the sled, looks 100x better, doesnt get hung up on running boards, and after strap snapped, sled was UNSTOPPABLE
 
Because a sled looks cool, doesnt mean it handles well. There is a give and take with the drop brakets. A.) for the most part your sled will handle like crap. Take.. B.) you do indeed gain clearance for deep snow and is needed since for the most part your track will tend to "trench" instead of "float" Give...maybe??. If you do use drop brackets in the rear it is a good idea to drop the front mounts a bit to take some pressure off the skis. I believe this is what cooper is talking about how he gained lug clearance. I messed around a couple of seasons with one of my Exciters and ended up dropping the front 1" down and not touching the rear mount at all. After taking some slack out of the front limiter and some spring adjustments I had a very nice handling sled that was easier to steer, transfered weight better on accelleration and was a blast to ride in the deep snow where as before it would just barely stay afloat unless you were wot.
The 80's yamaha sleds I owned were all really ski heavy. I wish I would have experimented years ago with dropping the front arm. It is, in fact the best thing I ever did to any of my sleds handling wise.
Get a new limiter strap, put it on the longest setting and drop your front mount one inch.
 
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Ok now do you have any idea about relocating skid back. I want to do a 121 track on 116 track sled and extensions r 96$. Id rather just relocate back and down for the cost of rivets. I'm sure someone has done it?
 
Just make extensions for $10.00 out of 1/4" steel plate. I'll try to remember to get dimensions for you so you can make them. Check out my 121 build in my signature and it shows what I've done. Or you could move skid back, but I e never done that so I couldn't help you there.
 
drop brackets work well if the rest of the the skid is proportionately mounted. throttle junkie hit it closest. you just cant dump out the rear and expect the sled to work, but you can make a ski packing body english needing off trail monster if you so desire.
 
Good advice above. Track approach angle does make a difference but only if it is obtained without negative change to the rest of the setup. The ski pressure is likely what killed you as at least one poster mentioned. Moving your skid back can reduce track attack angle without creating more ski pressure, but now you have a harder to turn sled. A drop and roll chaincase is another way to reduce attack angle, but is a more expensive and significant mod. Try to get the best balance on the skid and skis as a combined unit and you should get the best deep snow performance as long as you get good weight transfer. After riding some of the new mtn sleds in Cooke City recently I was overwhelmed by how easily they pop up on top of the snow. Pay attention to what the manufacturers are doing now because they have it figured out.
 
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