02YamiSxViper
New member
Well my knees feel like absolute crap after a day of riding. I suspected it was the seat being too low. After doing some reading I came to the conclusion that if I wanted to keep my Viper I'd have to buy a BOSS seat. I guess Boss was recently sold so the new owners are doing their best to turn the image around. Steve offered to lower my price a bit if I took some pictures of the install and showcased to quality that Boss has to offer. So here goes, my Boss seat arrived today in a Boss box. Here are some pictures of the Seat out of the box.
The Guys at the post office had the seat sitting on the trunk end so the back is a little squished, that'll straighten out at install.
This is the wifes seat for her SRX which has a Blue and White scheme.
The First step was to Wire up the tail light, I got the boss LED. I just clipped the connector off my seat, this way it'll be just as easy to pull the Boss seat off. I used solder and shrink tubing, I used to install stereos at Best Buy this was the strongest method. Below is just a picture of me extending the wires. I only had one color of wire though.
Here I connected the extended wires to the Boss led. I used a multimeter to find which wire was which. I set multimeter to 20DC and tested the wires. You'll get 13ish volts when the sled is running from one wire, This goes to black on the Boss led. You'll get 13ish from another wire when the brake is pressed, this connects the the Boss red wire and the last wire is ground that goes to white on the Boss led.
Next step is to grind off the rivets holding the bolt that holds the original seat on, I used my Dremel but I suppose anything could work.
The next step is to clean the tunnel so the supplied velcro that holds the boss seat on can stick to the tunnel (Sorry about the awful quality)
Next I pulled a little bit of the backing paper off the velcro, aligned the seat to the desired position and pulled the paper out allowing the velcro to stick to the tunnel. Looking back now you could probably just pull the velcro off the seat and install it on the tunnel without the seat attached. Whatever gets it done.
Lastly the snaps. Put the seat around the filler neck of the gas tank and pull the snap flaps as far down and forward as they'll go.
Lastly attach the supplied rivets and snaps. This is where I ran into an issue but some might not. My rivet gun was too big, so the end of the gun wouldn't sit inside the snap, making the rivet really loose. So my fix was to install a bunch of tiny washers on the rivet to sit inside the snap and allow it to be tight to the tunnel. Photo below illustrates my snap fix, like I said this may or may not be needed depending on your rivet gun.
And here is the Finished product. The seating position is 100x better. The seat is made with quality materials and the pockets seem great. The only gripe I have is that the fit against the gas tank could be tighter.
Now the seat is ready to go, just in time for Summer!
The Guys at the post office had the seat sitting on the trunk end so the back is a little squished, that'll straighten out at install.
This is the wifes seat for her SRX which has a Blue and White scheme.
The First step was to Wire up the tail light, I got the boss LED. I just clipped the connector off my seat, this way it'll be just as easy to pull the Boss seat off. I used solder and shrink tubing, I used to install stereos at Best Buy this was the strongest method. Below is just a picture of me extending the wires. I only had one color of wire though.
Here I connected the extended wires to the Boss led. I used a multimeter to find which wire was which. I set multimeter to 20DC and tested the wires. You'll get 13ish volts when the sled is running from one wire, This goes to black on the Boss led. You'll get 13ish from another wire when the brake is pressed, this connects the the Boss red wire and the last wire is ground that goes to white on the Boss led.
Next step is to grind off the rivets holding the bolt that holds the original seat on, I used my Dremel but I suppose anything could work.
The next step is to clean the tunnel so the supplied velcro that holds the boss seat on can stick to the tunnel (Sorry about the awful quality)
Next I pulled a little bit of the backing paper off the velcro, aligned the seat to the desired position and pulled the paper out allowing the velcro to stick to the tunnel. Looking back now you could probably just pull the velcro off the seat and install it on the tunnel without the seat attached. Whatever gets it done.
Lastly the snaps. Put the seat around the filler neck of the gas tank and pull the snap flaps as far down and forward as they'll go.
Lastly attach the supplied rivets and snaps. This is where I ran into an issue but some might not. My rivet gun was too big, so the end of the gun wouldn't sit inside the snap, making the rivet really loose. So my fix was to install a bunch of tiny washers on the rivet to sit inside the snap and allow it to be tight to the tunnel. Photo below illustrates my snap fix, like I said this may or may not be needed depending on your rivet gun.
And here is the Finished product. The seating position is 100x better. The seat is made with quality materials and the pockets seem great. The only gripe I have is that the fit against the gas tank could be tighter.
Now the seat is ready to go, just in time for Summer!
