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Viktory2k1

Viktory2k1

VIP Member
Joined
Dec 10, 2014
Messages
654
Age
53
Location
Waukesha, Wisconsin
Ok, clutching is pretty good. Whats next? Aftermarket reeds no good. Can no good. Go through PV's? I have been running amsoil since I got sled but never had any big gummed up issues. I ordered a gal of Klotz and will use what little amsoil I have left in wildcat. Kind of interested in the Doo skid upgrade even though I just went through my skid. Any nice HP adding mods that don't involve big bore or porting? Maybe top end could use a freshening, don't know if its ever been done.
I know it isn't up to ssrrxx's performance. I get those results on speedo, not GPS. I dont even own a cellphone so can't test it that way. I could hook up my multimeter with tach setting to see if I am really at 8300 or 8400, whatever its at.
Im also upgrading wildcat at same time but that one only runs great when it wants to. Putting a 2001 ZL800 skid in that once I replace all worn out parts. Supposedly 13.5" of travel.
 
lol, there's nothing special about my #'s. I'm just making the most out of what I got. We have the same sled. Maintenance, set up, and testing. That's where your speed will come. I was lucky in that my friends all had comparibly sleds, a piped 97 700 SX, another 98 SRX, an 02 SRX, and an 06 Apex. We'd run our sleds, make changes, run again, noting what worked and what didn't.

Here's some tips, pull your driveshaft out and true up the drivers in a lathe, mine ran out .035 from factory. Doesn't sound like a big deal, but at 100 mph, that little imperfection is costing you speed.

Track tension is a big one, run them on the tight side.

Gearing up 1 tooth on the upper made a huge difference on our sleds. It's going the opposite way from what you hear sometimes, but in our testing on snow covered lakes and fields, a geared up sled jumped a stock geared sled by 1-2 lengths from the start and slowly pulled from there. This was the biggest improvement I made to my sled.

And of course the usual bearing maintenance, slides, etc. Make sure everything is operating as effeciantly as can be and you'll be updating your Sig.

EDIT: Forgot to add clutches, Always replace any bushing, roller, weight that needs it. I've found that my secondary bushing needs to be replaced every 2000-2500 miles. It's never failed to get me back a sled length or 2 in our runs.
 
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Vic,
Have you been in the chain case yet. If not, check what gears are in there and excessive chain slop. Shock loaded chains (stretched) = disaster on the trail. I usually change it out on a sled that's new to me. Ya just never know how much abuse it has went thru. Kind like a timing chain on your cars & trucks. Change it before it breaks or be ready to open your wallet.
I changed my daughters chain and found a broken link. Couldn't see anything until it was on the bench and noticed something shiny.
 
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I'm running a stock Polaris track now, off a 2000 XCR 800. It was almost free when my last track went south. 144 trail studs.
 
Exactly what did the 1 more upper tooth do? That would be for top end right? Do you have to reclutch? My track is a camoplast hacksaw 3/4". This is its 3rd season. 240 studs that are a tad on the short side. I have never had chaincase open yet. If everything is ok in there, I will try the 1 more tooth on top gear. Can you still run the stock chain if it isn't worn? I bet its all stock but you never know. I thought that 1 tooth more would hurt holeshot. I didn't even know you could change it by 1 tooth. Everything on primary is new, wait, not rollers. I did not replace secondary bushing, I found no play but I can slide it on shaft about 1/8" back and forth. Jackshaft bearings feel smooth. Never had driveshaft out and pto bearing is tight even though speedo link was shot when I got sled. Looks like someone cut link for some reason and made it a tad too short. In the idle hang thread, what screws was mrviper talking about backing off 1.5-1.75 turns. Idle air screws?
Yep, I think chain and gear is next.
 
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A can wont add power but will help power to weight. There are some cans that do add very little hp Like the mbrp trail and jaws. You have to call jaws to get one for srx. There was a thread on here last year about them.
 
if you change gears your clutching will have to be readjusted to get back to peak rpm again and since your not the tuner type, I would leave it alone. If you want it to go faster yet, remove some of those picks in the track you dont need 240.... 144 would be more then plenty and thats rotating weight....,adds up big time at 100mph!
A aftermarket silencer adds zero power to it just makes it louder and attracts the cops and dnr alot quicker.
 
I love tuning. Just tuning right. If I do the 1 tooth gear change, I could probably figure out what needs to be changed in clutching. If it involves the whole clutch setup then forget it but if its a spring or rivets, i'm game.
 
Viktory2k1 said:
I love tuning. Just tuning right. If I do the 1 tooth gear change, I could probably figure out what needs to be changed in clutching. If it involves the whole clutch setup then forget it but if its a spring or rivets, i'm game.
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with all due respect intended, certainly not trying to insult you but just a week ago you didnt know how to add a couple hundred rpm to your clutch set up, so thats where I say if your not a tuner leave it alone as its set up, gearing changes everything. Gearing a sled changes the rpm, add gear you will lower your rpm, gear it down it will over rev.

I see you want more performance, I have given you a easy answer, remove about 100 of those picks out of the track its way,way too heavy! As a rule of thumb, you basicly need 1 pick per horsepower, you have 137hp,........ and you have 240 picks!
 
I got lucky when I geared up, didn't have to touch the clutch's. Went right to 8300 with a slow climb to 8400 way on top. I'm a lighter guy so that may be why.

As for your other question on losing the holeshot when gearing up, here's my unprofessional opinion. If your gearing up on a drag sled where you have traction all the time, ( ice picks or asphalt sled) you'll lose some holeshot. But on everyday trail sleds, where your lining up on a packed lake trail or field, track speed is what you want. Everyone is spinning from the start and whoever is spinning the track faster will pull ahead. This is just my opinion, but it worked for every sled we did it to.
 
First, I knew that the ywy spring would add rpm, just didnt know how much by looking at the rates. All I was sure of was it should leave engagement alone. I cant look at a spring rate and say "well, with the weights i'm running, the ywy spring would add 300rpm" like you can. I really didn't want to start drilling on the rivets or grinding on weights. I was really afraid that the spring would add too much rpm. Modifying the weights this early in the game for me is hard because if I screw it up, gotta buy new weights(I'm a tight wad too). I ask for advice to ppl like you because you know exactly what will happen with a change in this or that. Say that spring made engine rev 600rpm more, I couldn't send it back for a credit and I would have to buy a new one. Thats after you got me over the fear of ruining the motor. For example(this is hypothetical) I want a GWG spring now. You would know exactly what it would do. I would guess and say nothing to engagement and raise shift by 275rpm. I hope you get what i'm saying. As far as the studs, this track has 3 seasons on it, if I have 96 open holes in it, wouldn't it weaken the track verses having the studs? Yes their heavy and a screw up on my part, an expensive one at that. The only way I would fix that problem is buy a new track and buy 144 of the right studs which isn't going to happen. My traction with the 96 new studs is about 15% better. I lose sleep over things like that. I would not buy a can. I was asking if that mod in the tech section would work on a srx, no louder just sound neater, just a thought. Don't need the feds any closer then they are. Not insulted at all, just don't like to do anymore impulse buys(the first studs)without mass research. If I had to guess, 1 more tooth up would not affect my clutching anything I would notice, down, back to www. If I had that camera set better, I could answer that better. I haven't priced any of that out yet to see if its worth it to me. If I do decide to do it, don't be surprised if you see a question or 2 about it somewhere I hope I can still get advice from you. I've just got a lot on my plate with that other sled. That one I studded right 96 of the perfect length, same track. Its the running issue that has me pullin what little hair I have left out. I haven't even ridden the srx since Saturday. Sorry so long winded
On a lighter note, did any of you see the gopro vid of the stoners that refused to race my John Deere? One on a XLT and one on a indy lite. To me, its funny. Its in the vintage section if interested.
 
wont hurt a thing to have the holes left over in the track, tracks use kevlar belting inside. I have done this many many times and youll have zero problems removing studs. Youll actually get better traction because youll increase the pressure each pick applys to the ice because theres less of them to distribute the load, and...............it will go much faster because the track will be lighter, alot lighter, thats rotating weight.
 
What do you suggest I do with the old studs? Can't throw them away. Can't sell them even though they have 50 miles on them. They're too short even for a 3/4" paddle. Their Woodys traction master gold diggers. Thats $200+ with backing plates. I have the perfect answer in another thread. Just havent looked anything up. Worked on other sled for 7 hours and went backwards with my intended accomplishment. That sucked. I didn't realize it was 20f in garage and was wondering why tools were freezing to my hands. I never turned on the heater. Thats how into it I was. I see your point about the weight vs a decrease of 15% in traction. I put 144 in last season and the other 96 a month ago but I had to stick to same length. I have 18 hours to expel the demon out of the other sled and put the new skid in.
The additional studs did help a little, not enough to compromise the weight but I can stop on a dime even at those speeds. We get a lot of deer on lake. I will go look up the part numbers of the tracks. Even if they are the same, it won't be done for a while. OK, did a little research and yamaha and wildcat have same part number for same tracks(none of which are mine). This is where my idea comes in. Let me refresh. Yami has 240 .875 effective length studs. Arctic cat has 96 1.005 effective length studs. Add 48 of the same stud 1.005 effective length studs to Arctic Cat track and swap tracks. I could do the bearings on both while i'm at it. Let the arctic cat deal with the short studs. Then I could probably remove some if I want. I originally wanted 144 for yami but bought the wrong ones(if you must know, that was before I quit drinking). Perfect answer, Hey? I would like a little longer on AC but has even less clearance to front heat exchanger. I just have to make it run right first.
 
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Viktory2k1 said:
What do you suggest I do with the old studs? Can't throw them away. Can't sell them even though they have 50 miles on them. They're too short even for a 3/4" paddle. Their Woodys traction master gold diggers. Thats $200+ with backing plates. I have the perfect answer in another thread. Just havent looked anything up. Worked on other sled for 7 hours and went backwards with my intended accomplishment. That sucked. I didn't realize it was 20f in garage and was wondering why tools were freezing to my hands. I never turned on the heater. Thats how into it I was. I see your point about the weight vs a decrease of 15% in traction. I put 144 in last season and the other 96 a month ago but I had to stick to same length. I have 18 hours to expel the demon out of the other sled and put the new skid in.
The additional studs did help a little, not enough to compromise the weight but I can stop on a dime even at those speeds. We get a lot of deer on lake. I will go look up the part numbers of the tracks. Even if they are the same, it won't be done for a while. OK, did a little research and yamaha and wildcat have same part number for same tracks(none of which are mine). This is where my idea comes in. Let me refresh. Yami has 240 .875 effective length studs. Arctic cat has 96 1.005 effective length studs. Add 48 of the same stud 1.005 effective length studs to Arctic Cat track and swap tracks. I could do the bearings on both while i'm at it. Let the arctic cat deal with the short studs. Then I could probably remove some if I want. I originally wanted 144 for yami but bought the wrong ones(if you must know, that was before I quit drinking). Perfect answer, Hey? I would like a little longer on AC but has even less clearance to front heat exchanger. I just have to make it run right first.
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Find an old dirt bike tire. Shuff em in anf have some fun.


...assuming you have a bike
 
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