BROKE SOMETHING: SX7 subtle vibration when accel?

As blue said, you've got some work ahead of you. Sounds like more than one needs attention.

Take the carbs, pipe, etc to get a good look at all the mounts and they're attachment. Still may not have to pull the motor, but in the end it'll probably be necassary.
 
on my SXR years back I had issue with front left mount..Now one bolt fell out(easy fix),the other bolt broke in the block..had to remove the mount and with very little broken bolt sticking out,tried to get it to turn..very difficult.Got some kind of a chisel to try and get it to turn via smacking chisel on edge of bolt to start it turning.I was lucky as it started to turn and I worked it out slowly and replaced with new bolts.If the bolt won't turn then you have a different Ball game here..wishing you good luck but get her done properly for peace of mind.Do not ride sled until you get this issue solved....
 
sloTJ said:
Alright makes sense now that there's 4 mounts and the back two are hidden. What are you doing pulling your motor devin? How difficult is it to get to that stage? Is this a current pic?
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Was upgrading the steering column to the newer braced one. Hardest part is taking clutch off and putting bottom coolant hose back on. Not a very hard or long job. Spent more time cleaning than anything.
 
Is this mount supposed to have a bolt through it completely? Or is this normal. I got all of them disconnected, Im just not sure how to know which if any are broken...GOPR0089[1].jpgGOPR0092[1].jpg
 
yep the damper should be threaded on both sides.Those dampers run like $100 plus bucks,better start looking for used ones.Viperking should have parts.
 
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A place locally has a used mount for $25 that ill probably pick up. One more question for you guys... If all the mount holes have so much wiggle room where they bolt to the chassis, how do you know where to fully tighten it down exactly?
 
sloTJ said:
A place locally has a used mount for $25 that ill probably pick up. One more question for you guys... If all the mount holes have so much wiggle room where they bolt to the chassis, how do you know where to fully tighten it down exactly?
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The wiggle room is to allow you to move the engine around to ensure proper offset/alignment and center to center distance between the secondary and primary.

a clutch alignment tool makes this job easy but you can do it with a straight edge and measuring tape.
 
Dang, how do I know where it's all good and lined up now? I still have to get the carbs back on and attach the airbox but I didn't think I had to do any of that. Never thought about it.
 
snomofo said:
The wiggle room is to allow you to move the engine around to ensure proper offset/alignment and center to center distance between the secondary and primary.

a clutch alignment tool makes this job easy but you can do it with a straight edge and measuring tape.
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What should these measurements be if you have them? Stock yamaha belt and my clutches have always squealed at idle since I can remember. Thank you for your help! I appreciate it.
 
sloTJ said:
Dang, how do I know where it's all good and lined up now? I still have to get the carbs back on and attach the airbox but I didn't think I had to do any of that. Never thought about it.
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You may be able to get it close using the witness marks of the mount washers but the only way to ensure it's right is to measure (offset and CtoC).

Specs for an SRX - CtoC is 10.52"-10.62" (centerline of the crank to centerline of the jacksaft)

offset is .53"-.64" using a straight edge against the backside of the primary - measuring the gap between the straight edge and the back side of the secondary
 
bluemonster1 said:
a center to center tool does it all for you in one shot,everyone should have one of them.
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X2 - I should mention that you should measure equal gaps at the leading edge and trailing edge of the back of the secondary (the staight edge should span across both sheaves' backsides). If anything, error on a smaller gap at the trailing edge of the secondary.
 
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