2002 SRX 700.... Possibly buying, and have a few questions. Pics inside!

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comatoast

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Ok , well .. Possibly impulse buying.. I really need to stop looking at craigslist, when I dont need things..

Just wondering what you guys think of this sled.. Price is negotiable, Sled is about a 7/10 cosmetically . One small tear in the seat, little surface rust on the trailing arms, rear plastic broke on the grab bar, etc.. Minor things for the most part and some random scratches here and there.

Heres more of what IM worried about. It has about 6800 miles, and he has had it for the last 2 seasons. The prior owner who put a majority of the miles on owned a marine/sport shop, , and was maintained well, it seems. Current owner "thinks" the top end was refreshed around 5000 miles, but cant say for sure .. He haas always run amsoil Interceptor, and he said thats what his mechanic told him to use , and that it was safe for the Power Valves. Yes/no?


Starts good, seems to idle great.. I didn't ride it, but I will give him a call tomorrow to set something up once I get thru the new year..

I had a 02 viper that locked up a crank bearing, so anything other than the red head has worried me since then, although it probably shouldn't, I just want to be cautious.

suspension seems. well normal for these sleds / chassis.. I've always wanted another one of these as I never got to put many miles on my old 01 I had to sell for financial issue back in the day. and Im sure it may last for years, but just a little paranoid and was wondering if there was anything specific I should look for or check.

I was thinking of offering $1400 if everything goes well/as planned


http://duluth.craigslist.org/snw/5380711068.html
 
$1400, sounds like a steal, looks pretty clean, as far as pv's, pull them, clean them make sure no pull-thru's.
 
What should compression be on a sled with almost 7k miles. Anything in the 115 area?

Any other areas to check I might be forgetting?
 
If maintained it will go for a long time. I wouldn't be scared of it. If you had a crank bearing lock up there was a specific reason for it and whatever happened would have happened regardless of which motor. Longevity is mostly about maintenance.
 
Gotcha, thanks.. I did read on here in quite a few different threads that the vipers did have crank/bearing issues occurring around 5000-6000 miles.. That's the reason for the concern, considering the srx is basically the same motor, correct?
 
comatoast said:
Gotcha, thanks.. I did read on here in quite a few different threads that the vipers did have crank/bearing issues occurring around 5000-6000 miles.. That's the reason for the concern, considering the srx is basically the same motor, correct?
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Same bottom end and pistons. Slightly different crank. Different jugs/porting and heads. Vipers came stock with Lean needles and gobs off timing compared to srx. So different carb setup and clutching. Don't let anyone tell you a viper and an srx are basically the same. They are basically the same displacement. That's basically it haha alot off differences.

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Really Depends on the tester you are using. I'd say anywhere from 115 - 130 your in the ball park. Just make sure they are all the same. No more than 5 psi difference. Be as consistent as possible when pulling the cord. Hold the throttle open.

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OK.. Hold the throttle open, be consistent. Doi need to cut the fuel off somewhere when pulling it over with the throttle pegged? Cold or warm motor when I do the test?

Also what's the best plugs for these? I have some new br9 plugs I haven't used for my sx700, but didn't know if these are different.
 
Look down in the cylinders at piston crowns try and judge wash. I looked at a sled had one cylinder little lower and top of piston looked ashy dullish.
 
Plugs in or out makes no difference. Better just take em out. That sled calls for a br9es but br9eya is also fine. Do it cold and than do it warm afterwards if you want and just average your numbers. It will go down a touch when its hot. Pretty sure there is No fuel shut off on that sled. Try it with throttle closed too if you want. It's really all debatable what the best way is. The key is to make sure you pull consistent and make sure numbers are very close.

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Thanks everyone. I'm sure a piston even with only a few hundred miles on it will have carbon build up on it, so what am exactly looking for other than no massive heaps of gunk on them
 
It's really hard to see the actual wash through the plug hole. It will be very dark brown. Thing is that the wash can change depending your rpm and witch fuel circuit you are running in. Make sure that it's a rich dark chocolate brown. Same with the plugs. If it's ashy then your having problems. If it's ashy then the piston is probably already toast and it will read very low like 80-90. Don't be impulsive. Go check the beast out and post back. Lots of good help and info here. And always check obvious wear items like track and skis/carbides. Wiggle the wheels around to check for slop in skid bearings. Odd slider wear. Check in the bottom of the clutch sheaves for spider cracks. Dont fall for the old broken speedo trick.

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Thanks everyone.. Any specific mods that really open these sleds up? Or if I do pick it up what would be the first 2-3 mods I should do after the general tune-up
 
comatoast said:
Thanks everyone.. Any specific mods that really open these sleds up? Or if I do pick it up what would be the first 2-3 mods I should do after the general tune-up
Click to expand...

Clutching and skid change depending on what you are doing with it.
 
Is there a " universal " good clutch that everyone seems to agree on, or like many other things, just pick your poison and go? Bender and Hauck come to mind, but I'm sure there's many more options or there
 
My riding will be primarily lakes and trails.. Not a big lake runner, not have I been a fan of pegging the throttle for 2 minutes straight, but just the random 30-100 is always fun

Would like a good midrange, as it seems it would benefit me most
 
Search for clutch setups. You should be able to find one that you would like based on the results of others testing. That will give you a base to start with then tune it in from there.
 
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