03 sxviper 700 bogging

L

Labrador-Ronin

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Joined
Dec 1, 2015
Messages
123
Location
Northwest River, NL Canada
Hello all I think I have issues with my the power valves, it Boggs when I'm slowing down it goes at 2500 rpm and Boggs when I give throttle and it has to be stopped and let the rooms drop down to idle, and then I can go again, I'm guessing the valves were sticking.
I pulled two, and they had some build up, bit of pitting, they are a bit sticky, would brake cleaner be suitable to clean with and anyone have ideas on how to get a stripped bolt out lol, I'm at a loss at it, and anyone got 2 of them they would sell or give lol
 
To be honest I'm not sure I've got a couple post about the tors system I'm going to check that but I got a head bolt that stuck so I need to get that at the helping me work on it stripped it but I'm going to need to clean the valves there sticky there gunky and I don't think I've ever been clean them been Queen by me what do you think it could be I change the stator I change the flywheel new plugs fresh gas new oil I clean the carbs I checked all the electrical components it runs perfect except for it starts to bog down won't let me use the gas after a while when slowing down I think I should check the tors.
Any thoughts on what else? And and advise on the stripped Allen head bolt? I've tried all I could think of
 
Labrador-Ronin said:
To be honest I'm not sure I've got a couple post about the tors system I'm going to check that but I got a head bolt that stuck so I need to get that at the helping me work on it stripped it but I'm going to need to clean the valves there sticky there gunky and I don't think I've ever been clean them been Queen by me what do you think it could be I change the stator I change the flywheel new plugs fresh gas new oil I clean the carbs I checked all the electrical components it runs perfect except for it starts to bog down won't let me use the gas after a while when slowing down I think I should check the tors.
Any thoughts on what else? And and advise on the stripped Allen head bolt? I've tried all I could think of
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Check TORS and try some heat on the bolt and u can always weld a nut to the broken part.. I have done that and slowly worked it out.
 
MrSled said:
Check TORS and try some heat on the bolt and u can always weld a nut to the broken part.. I have done that and slowly worked it out.
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Ok thanks, the thing is round inside sadly, there's a leak on the valve right at the outer 2 bolt nose of the clutch side one, would you suggest I replace the o rings, first time doing anything but building the motor haha
 
I got it out I had to literally destroy the bolt and yeah I think I'm going to need a rebuild kit for the exhaust valves crap what's the best way to clean them I'm using a brush above zero Celsius up to buy the weekend and I definitely got to get out on her
 
It sounds like you have a tors issue. When I have my kid with me on mine she will get her hand in position to not let the throttle lever go back and it will activate the tors and I have to let it idle for a few seconds before it will rev up again. The valves only affect the higher rpms.
 
drew24 said:
Labrador-Ronin said:
Are you saying you can only get the idle up to 1000 rpms? Also, tapping the brakes has nothing to do with the tors so if it is acting up when you hit the brakes you have something else going on. It's possible you have a wire harness rub through somewhere in the harness.
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I've gone through the harness left right and Center there are no rub throughs I change the power valve bolts and gaskets just then the valves are cleaned I tested The Handlebar tors system it works perfectly but my emergency stop button will not work right now and I had her idling I gave her throttle and the tors activated at 2000 RPM with a quick flick of the throttle I had her audit up to 3000 RPM sadly I got her down to 900 RPM now idling but that's without the airbox I'm wondering if the tors activated because they didn't have the airbox on
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I pulled the tors off the carb rack the spring from inside disappeared it wasn't together right I'm guessing it's a bad switch down there or at least I'm hoping anyone know where to get a switch from the carb rack cuz no spring on inside no more
 
I think I would get the tors switch replaced or cleaned good. You will have to get a spring also or find the other one. There is a good chance it is in the bottom of the engine compartment. I would do that and put it back together and see if it is still acting up. Double check that the kill switch is plugged in because if it isn't the tors will activate. The air box has no effect on the tors. When the tors activates it will be like a rev limiter and only lets it rev to a little over 3000 rpms. You can bypass the switch at the carb by plugging the 2 wires in the harness into each other. If you do that and it is that switch I would recommend getting it working again because the tors is a good safety feature to have.
 
drew24 said:
I think I would get the tors switch replaced or cleaned good. You will have to get a spring also or find the other one. There is a good chance it is in the bottom of the engine compartment. I would do that and put it back together and see if it is still acting up. Double check that the kill switch is plugged in because if it isn't the tors will activate. The air box has no effect on the tors. When the tors activates it will be like a rev limiter and only lets it rev to a little over 3000 rpms. You can bypass the switch at the carb by plugging the 2 wires in the harness into each other. If you do that and it is that switch I would recommend getting it working again because the tors is a good safety feature to have.
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Okay I'm going to clean it up there tomorrow look for the spring it bounced out and hit the concrete for I know that so could be pretty much anywhere in my shed in the in the room I'm just going to move the Viper Overlook underneath my toolbox everywhere that I can get to I think I'm going to have to replace the switch anyway I'm going to put it back in and try it but what's the idling RPMs supposed to be at I still can't find that anywhere I check the owner's manual and nothing
 
Labrador-Ronin said:
Okay I'm going to clean it up there tomorrow look for the spring it bounced out and hit the concrete for I know that so could be pretty much anywhere in my shed in the in the room I'm just going to move the Viper Overlook underneath my toolbox everywhere that I can get to I think I'm going to have to replace the switch anyway I'm going to put it back in and try it but what's the idling RPMs supposed to be at I still can't find that anywhere I check the owner's manual and nothing
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Lol. I hate it when a spring pops off and goes flying. At least you know it hit the concrete and isn't under the motor in the sled. You can probably clean that switch no problem. In your picture if you look at the little dark spots, that's what needs cleaned. Clean those contact areas up and it should be good to go. I run my viper and srx at 1500 rpm idle when good and warmed up. They usually run lower than that when cold but are fine after warmed up. The "normal" rpm is about 1800 but if it is at 1500 it has less of an idle hang when coming to a stop.
 
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